need help (1968 Turn Signal Switch)

["Mike & Christine Trettin" <mtrettin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

> Hi All.
> Has anyone on the list ever change the turn signal switch on a 68 imperial
> with the tilt and telescope steering wheel.
> Mine is bad and I can,t figure out how to pull the tube off  of the column
I
> do not have the special tool can I make one and how would you make one.
> Thanks.
> Bob

Bob,

We have some past IML advice on th esubject collected here:
http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Electrical/turn.htm

Since the site is still not back to normal, I'll paste the relevant advice
below.

Good Luck!

Mike Trettin
1956 Imperial Sedan, Turquoise

___________________________________________________________

Question from Larry (1968):

This is a request for some help with turn signals on my 68 Crown...I've
determined that either the switch or the wires between the switch and the
plug-in, is at fault. My question is: How do I get the switch out of this
tilt steering column? I have removed the 3 screws that hold the switch, and
it is loose but will not come out of the upper end of the tube. The opening
in the top of the tube is just too small for the switch to pass through.
What am I missing??

Replies:

>From Dick:

I have taken my turn signal switch out of my 68 with tilt-o-scope, but it
was not fun. You have to remove the individual wires from the connector on
the steering column under the dash, and fish them all the way out the top.
You need a special tool to get the steering column back together because you
have to loosen the tilt-o-scope assembly to get the stuff through and out.
If you possibly can, try to repair the switch in place, without removing it.
If you disconnect it electrically, you should be able to pull it up far
enough to work on the contacts. What are your symptoms?

>From Chris:

I have replaced my own turn signal switch (in my 67) and it was not easy.
First, find a new switch. My local C-P dealer (Prince in Inglewood, CA) had
one in stock (it looked like it had been on the shelf since 1973). *Before
doing ANY electrical work on any car, always disconnect the battery! *
Second, put the steering wheel in a straight-ahead position (so you can
reinstall it correctly later) and remove it. You need to remove the horn
switch assembly (the chrome crossbars and center ring) and the tilt-a-scope
adjuster (careful! There's a big coil spring back there!). It's all pretty
obvious up to this point. You'll need a steering wheel puller to remove the
actual wheel once you loosen and remove the central nut. Pullers cost about
$10 at any Napa store or similar. Worth having...

Once the steering wheel is off, you'll see the plastic switch (actually it's
about all you'll see in there). Remove the turn signal lever (there's a
screw holding it on, I believe), then the screws holding in the switch, and
then get out your flashlight and look at the lower end of the steering
column. You'll see the wiring harness coming out the other end (you can
match colors from the top of the column to identify it), and it won't look
small enough to fit up through the steering column, but it does with a
trick: Tie a small but long wire or string around the wires and above the
connector (you'll be using it to guide the new wiring back down, so make
sure the bottom end of the string doesn't come up with the wiring).

Then, reset the tilting column so it's parallel the whole way. This will
leave as much room as possible. Go back up to the switch and work it out the
top of the column. (It will seem not to fit out the rolled edge of the
column sleeve, but it does.) You'll have to work the wiring up through the
column and you'll be tempted to cut off the connector but it will come out.
Make sure the string stays in the column! When it's out, take a much needed
rest stop, wipe off your brow, and untie the wire or string. Tie it to the
new harness in the same place, then feed the wiring into the column until
the switch is almost in place. Go underneath and use the string to pull the
harness down, and then work the new switch and wiring into position. Plug it
all in, reattach the horn and steering wheel, reconnect the battery and
signal away!

Follow-up from Larry:

I do not have a service manual for the 68, so today I stopped by the parts
department at the Chrysler Dealer and got a copy of the exploded view of the
entire steering column. With this bit of added information, I determined
that the switch MUST come through that small opening in the tube....with a
little added effort I did manage to persuade the switch out. The red wire
(current supply) is broken right close to the switch. The switch will not
work even by hooking this red wire together. It may be possible to repair
the switch, but I have not attempted that yet. All of the turn lights worked
properly when I plugged a turn switch from a 69 Road Runner into the
Imperial. No cornering lights of course, and the switch is completely
different. I asked the Chrysler parts mgr. if a replacement switch was
available from Chrysler, and his information tells him that it is. He told
me the price was about $60. Napa tells me that it is also available from
them for $180. I'm not out of the woods yet, but I think I'm headed in the
right direction.