Pennzoil and Quaker State are no longer "Pennsylvania Crude" based. I work
for an Oil company in Ohio, and they stopped purchasing Appalachian based
crudes about 4 years ago. If you will notice on any Pennzoil container, they
no longer have any inferences to "Pennsylvania Crude". I used to use
Pennzoil exclusively, but have boycotted them since they stopped purchasing
our oil. I now use Castrol.
>From: "Essinger" <maybe@xxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Subject: IML: on oil and such things...
>Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2002 11:59:06 -0500
>
>Greetings to all, young & old(er):
>
> Someone wrote recently about oil and additives - for their Imperials.
>On this, there are a few things my daddy always insisted upon; however,
>only a few here.
> Always use a good, name BRAND oil, but a 'true Pennsylvania crude," as
>he put it. Namely, Quaker State, Valvoline (foam-a-leene), or Pennzoil.
>Here, in Ohio (USA), I use 10W-30 in the winter, and 10W40 in the summer.
>He would insist upon changes about every 3,000 miles, along with the filter
>-- which absolutely HAD to be a Fram.
> For an additive, the ONLY thing he would permit was a small can
>(probably 8-10 ounces) of a product known as Bardohl (spelling?) primarily
>for the oil -- but could go in to the gas tank! And this was probably half
>way into the 3,000 for the oil. [This has not been available here for maybe
>20 years!]
> Engines back in the 1930s-40s were not as well set up to last the
>mileages which we demand today; back then, IF the body was good, and one
>had the money, the course was for an engine rebuild. The engines of the
>1960s were better but, still, not the best.
> For gasoline, again, use a know BRAND, and of only the octane needed.
>The gasoline of the 1950s-60s WAS different than what is available today -
>both quality (ingredients/mixtures) and octane ratings. Therefore, when
>one knows experts in the carburation (spelling?) field and in your own
>geogrphic area, listen to them. The guru here will sell you anything on
>his shelf (owns parts distributoship) for what ever the price is for that
>product. His favorite speech is, "You can buy/use this, at $6-10 per
>bottle, or do what I do in all of my older cars, trucks, and boats. Go to
>any gas station and buy a gallon of kerosene, then go to most any store and
>buy a quart of (brand) ATF (automatic Transmission Fluid). Then, for a 20
>gallon fill-up (of gas!), mix SIX ounces of kerosene with SIX ounces of
>ATF, mix/shake thouroughly, then put into gas tank prior to the gas. This
>will give your engine all the lubrication it needs ('cause gas today is
>"NO-LEAD") and boost the octane a couple of points, too."
> So, gang, what to do! There is no one answer for all situations. As
>I've been around for over 60 years, many of my father's traits have become
>my own - for good or not. In my various cars, I use Valvoline or Pennzoil
>(but do not interchange), with changes twice per year OR every 2,500 miles,
>Fram oil - gas - air filters, and usually Marathon gas (or its subsidiary,
>Speedway), have used Shell, Citgo, [ but will not use
>BP/Standard/Sohio/ESSO ], and the atf/kerosene mix in the last 20 years.
>Yes, the ATF/K mix is used in all of the older cars, be they Imperials or
>Packards, and, yes gang, they do run just fine! But, the cars are driven
>lightly: they are not driven hard, fast, hot and put away wet! Drove the
>64 Crown Coupe ("Baby") from Ohio to New Jersey last July for the WPC
>National Show Car Meet, some 1,260 miles on the intersates, and she never
>missed a beat! [This is one show boat that is not a trailer queen.]
> What to do? Follow your conscience - mainly, and, just maybe, listen
>to an old(er) man -- for once! I am open to comments, naturally of a
>positive nature; but, please, no knives in the back. What works for one
>person is not necessarily the only way to do something, as we all learn
>something new everyday - right?! Thanks for the time. Later, ne
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