Re: IML: Sealing Imperial Roof and Trunk lid Trim
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Re: IML: Sealing Imperial Roof and Trunk lid Trim



In addition to the polyester non-rub laminate, I used polypropylene-based caulking cord (hand-formed to surround the holes).  This is the same material used in setting skylight glazing.  It stays soft and sticky  (and watertight) pretty much forever, and can take the heat of a sunbaked roof and the coldest night, too.  It can be had for pennies at McMaster-Carr, item 9408T17.

jc

On Mar 11, 2008, at 3:08 PM, <wardle65@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I have takin my roof trim of my 58 and the sealer was like a soft putty. After 50 years it was still very soft and I could remove it with my fingers. I to would like to know what other members have used to seal it.  I  was going to use rubber washers under the front stainless trim and then a silicon on the diecast trim.  Any more suggestions?

Chris Wardle
1958 Imp Crown coupe





----- Original Message ----- From: "Joe Strickland" <jwstrick426@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: "Imperial Mail List" <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 2:57 AM
Subject: IML: Sealing Imperial Roof and Trunk lid Trim


Along with the discussion of sealing Imperial stainless steel roof
panels there is the issue of how the roof trim should be sealed when it
is re-installed.  On '62 models the standard trunk trim piece is a
chrome rib that has several machine threaded studs that are accessed
from the bottom side of the trunk lid.  The same issue would apply to
sealing the roof trim on those years that have the SS roof trim, or even
the conventional models that have roof trim pieces that go across the
top as in '57-59 models etc.  What type of sealer was originally used?
Was it 3-M automotive caulking compound?  Some of the trim I have seen
elsewhere on the '62 I own was a foam plastic pad (usually circular in
shape) that fit between the trim and the paint surface of the body part
with the fastener on it underneath side of the body part.  I have been
thinking about how to re-attach various trim pieces that have holes
through the body sheet metal.  I am leaning toward the possibility of
using clear GE silicone caulk.  It lasts for 20 years or so and remains
flexible.  3-M caulk goes on soft, but eventually dries out.

Paul mentions that some of the stainless steel roof panels had a fiber
pad underneath them (maybe some of them vibrated in the wind and made a
buzzing noise?).  Others had the panels electrically spot welded in
place.  Silicone sealer around the edges might work well and possibly
even contact cement to hold the panels against the roof would work too.
It would require that a person be careful how much contact cement
build-up was added.  It would have to be evenly applied to prevent bumps
or bulges underneath.  Then there is the issue of corrosion.  Any water
that condenses underneath or somehow gets under the edges of the SS
panels would be bound to cause rust.

I don't want to rain on anyone's parade, but those are just some
thoughts that came to mind.

Joe


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