Re: IML: Oil Pressure

[PAUL WENTINK <randalpark@xxxxxxx>]

The gauges in our cars are notoriously inaccurate. I would be tempted 
to check the actual oil pressure while warmed up and normal driving 
conditions with a pressure gauge under the hood. Considering high 
mileage, anything at slow idle is enough, as long as things like 
lifters don't become noisy, and the pressure goes up steadily with 
increased RPM. 10 pounds at hot idle is fine. I have been told that a 
pulsating needle on this type of gauge is a sign of trouble.

Paul W.


-----Original Message-----
From: Melissa Swenson <emswenson@xxxxxxx>
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 2:56 pm
Subject: Re: IML: Re using starter


This reminds me of an experience I had once while helping a friend 
change 
his timing chain. We could not budge that lousy damper bolt by hand so 
we 
resorted to using the starter motor. Every time my friend would bump 
the 
starter, the entire front end of the car almost came clear off the 
ground! 
Had I not witnessed this myself, I would not have believed it. The car 
moved 
over each time and came within inches of his garage wall. It did 
finally 
break loose. This was not a Chrysler product. Although rare, every 
big-block 
Chrysler engine that has failed, in my experience, was due to 
spun/seized 
bearings. These were all high-mileage, poorly maintained engines that 
were 
being subjected to harsh treatment at the time. More than likely, 
chunks of 
old valve seal material in the oil pick-up screen is partly to blame. 
For a 
stock rebuild, the stock oil pump should be fine. It would not hurt to 
use a 
high-volume pump though. When I fire up my '65 Crown, the oil gauge 
goes 
directly to the middle under fast idle conditions and settles down to 
just 
above the "safe" line when warm. I think I put 10W-30 in it last time. 
This 
summer I may use HD diesel or motorcycle 15W-40 to save on cam/lifter 
wear. 
The odometer has said these numbers since I bought it almost five years 
ago; 
94,398. If I had to guess, it probably has 100 to 120,000 on it and it 
is 
original and untouched. Some day, when I refurbish the engine, I will 
use 
fully-grooved, tri-metal bearings with the Mopar Performance HP oil 
pump and 
a windage tray in the oil pan. "She's real mean, my 413!" 
 
Eric 
65 Crown, below 0 in MN! 
----- Original Message ----- From: "michael wolf" <flowekim@xxxxxxxxx> 
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 8:51 AM 
Subject: Re: IML: Re using starter 
 
> Hi group 
>  
> Lot of good advice on the pulley bolt, all items 
> mentioned work and the MANY I have removed have almost 
> all been with the starter method. I am thankfull to 
> who ever suggested the rubber band over the head of 
> the bolt to hold in place the socket, USAF, I will try 
> it on the next one. Holding the socket on, for me, is 
> by thin double sided tape across head then socket 
> tapped onto the bolt and it "shims" it on tight. I 
> also go a step farther by slipping a length of heater 
> hose on the end breaker bar to guide/hold the breaker 
> from jumping, one time I did smack a radiator. 
> The only time this trick did not work out for me was 
> on the "flat 8" in my 37 and that did twist the "hand 
> crank" type notched bolt off the crank so downfalls do 
> happen but with a little thought and patience it will 
> come loose. I was never too worried about the teeth as 
> have had seized engines wipe out starters long before 
> breaking teeth but it is food for thought. 
> Mike 
>  
> --- Rob van der Es <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: 
>  
> > Thanks Tony, 
> >  
> > How do you make sure that the socket will stay on 
> > the head of the bolt then? 
> > Seems to me that it can easily slipp off that way! 
> > When it rests ont the chassis rail you can sort of 
> > "lock it" in place, you see? 
> > But that said, avoiding strain to the ring gear 
> > teeth makes also a lot of sense!! 
> >  
> > Robert 
> > ----- Original Message ----- >> From: Tony Carter 
> > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> > Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 2:30 PM 
> > Subject: IML: Re using starter 
> >  
> >  
> > If you are going to use the strater to unlock the 
> > crank bolt, don't rest the breaker bar on the 
> > chassis rail but position the bar about 2 to 3 
> > inches above it, when you turn the key the bar will 
> > hit the chassis rail and "crack" the bolt easily, as 
> > it has built up momentum, this avoids strain on the 
> > ring gear teeth and/or starter drive, "been there, 
> > done that" many times without any problems, just 
> > make sure the coil is disconnected. 
> > Tony C. Oz-tralia 
>  
>  
>  
>  
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