IML: '64-'66 Imperial Shift Indicator Cable

[Joe Strickland <jwstrick426@xxxxxxxxxx>]

I was going through some correspondence I had from years ago and ran 
across this item
penned by Thomas Asfar, Ridgefield, NJ:

" In regards to the shift cable problem that some 1964-1966 Imperial
owners are having, I'd like to advise them that it is not always
necessary to replace the cables (as long as the plastic tube isn't
broken).  You will need  a 2 or 3 foot length of .025" music wire.
Music wire is heat-treated wire used on some model airplanes, so could
probably be located at a hobby store (that's where I bought mine).
You'll also need a wire bending tool to round out the ends.  Remove your
dash chrome bezel and the steering column cover.  Now with the shift set
in low drive, connect the wire to the lower rod and feed it through the
plastic tube towards the top (be careful that the wire doesn't puncture
and get hung up inside the tube, but if it does, try again).  Now,
connect the top of the wire to the indicator needle rod.  Hints!  Don't
trim the wire first.  Cut it at the top (after it's connected to the
lower rod and the exact necessary length has been determined).
Remember!  Approximately 1/4" is adjustable at the bottom.  Have
patience!  It's not easy, but it works.  Incidentally, although factory
specs. call for .025" wire, I used .032" wire because my store was out of
the .025".  In fact, perhaps you should bring a piece of your wire with
you when you go shopping.  Good Luck!"

Then I also found this, courtesy of George Acquavella, Escondido, CA.:

"The transmission indicator on my '65 LeBaron did not function even when 
I first bought it.
The problem was traced to a broken actuator cable. In working with the 
actuator mechanism,
I could see why it gave out.  It was a design flaw from the start!  
(Remember 1964 was the
first year that the transmission control was moved to the steering 
column, replacing the former
pushbutton arrangement).

In designing the assembly the factory installed a stiff return spring to 
pull the indicator to the normal
Park position, but, the spring was made wrong, and would return the 
indicator to the low gear
position.  The effect of this was to push against the exposed portion of 
the actuator cable thus
tending to buckle the center wire repeatedly, eventually breaking it.

I removed the spring and did not replace it, as I deemed it not 
necessary for normal operation
of my car.  Then a new control cable was made, using a length of 
ordinary steel wire inserted into
teflon tubing of the type used for insulation in electronic circuits, 
which is readily available.
The cable was reinstalled (using the salvageable end-pieces), and the 
indicator works like a champ now."

Hope this helps some of you.

Joe Strickland

begin:vcard
fn:Joe Strickland
n:Strickland;Joe
adr;dom:;;1021 Vaughan Lane;Tioga;Texasw;76271
email;internet:jwstrick426@xxxxxxxxxx
version:2.1
end:vcard