IML: '64-'66 Imperial Shift Cables

[Joe Strickland <jwstrick426@xxxxxxxxxx>]

I was going through some correspondence I had from years ago
and ran across this item
penned by Thomas Asfar, Ridgefield, NJ:

" In regards to the shift cable problem that some 1964-1966 Imperial
owners are having, I'd like to advise them that it is not always
necessary to replace the cables (as long as the plastic tube isn't
broken).  You will need  a 2 or 3 foot length of .025" music wire.
Music wire is heat-treated wire used on some model airplanes, so could
probably be located at a hobby store (that's where I bought mine).
You'll also need a wire bending tool to round out the ends.  Remove your
dash chrome bezel and the steering column cover.  Now with the shift set
in low drive, connect the wire to the lower rod and feed it through the
plastic tube towards the top (be careful that the wire doesn't puncture
and get hung up inside the tube, but if it does, try again).  Now,
connect the top of the wire to the indicator needle rod.  Hints!  Don't
trim the wire first.  Cut it at the top (after it's connected to the
lower rod and the exact necessary length has been determined).
Remember!  Approximately 1/4" is adjustable at the bottom.  Have
patience!  It's not easy, but it works.  Incidentally, although factory
specs. call for .025 wire, I used .032 wire because my store was out of
the .025".  In fact, perhaps you should bring a piece of your wire with
you when you go shopping.  Good Luck!"

Then I also found this, courtesy of George Acquavella, Escondido, CA.:

The transmission indicator on my '65 LeBaron did not function even when 
I first bought it.  The problem was traced to a broken actuator cable. 
In working with the actuator mechanism, I could see why it gave out.  It 
was a design flaw from the start!  (Remember 1965 was the first year 
that the transmission control was moved to the steering column, 
replacing the former pushbutton arrangement.

In designing the assembly they installed a stiff return spring to pull 
the indicator to the normal Park position, but, the spring was made 
wrong, and would return the indicator to the low gear position.  The 
effect of this was to push against the exposed portion of the actuator 
cable thus tending to buckle the center wire repeatedly, eventually 
breaking it.

I removed the spring and did not replace it, as I deemed it not 
necessary for normal operation of my car.  Then a new control cable was 
made, using a length of ordinary steel wire inserted into teflon tubing 
of the type used for insulation in electronic circuits, which is readily 
available.  The cable was reinstalled (using the salvageable 
end-pieces), and the indicator works like a champ now.



Hope this helps some of you.

Joe Strickland


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