RE: IML: '62 Brake Distribution Block removal success

["Bob Oyen" <boboyen@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Snap On (and others) make Extra Thick Open End with Line Wrench on the other end.

They  work very well....

Also, I bounce  the fitting tight (kinda like tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen a bunch of times), more or less "machining" the lines cone to the seat.

That also works with copper washers on banjo fittings....

 

 

Bob Oyen

Oyen Consulting

Mitchell 1 Independent Sales Rep

925-586-4105

 

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From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Frederick Joslin
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 8:25 AM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: '62 Brake Distribution Block removal success

Hi Joe:

I had a slightly similar issue on my 69 LeBaron. I was replacing the lines to the front distribution block.

I had them all as tight as they would go and one was leaking. Not good.

It turned out that the flare wrench that I was using was hitting the fitting below, so it was not really as tight as it could go. I had to use an open box end wrech for the final tightening, (also not good) but it did work.

I think that I was holding the block itself with a pair of Vicegrips to stop it moving.   

----- Original Message -----
From: "Joe Strickland"
To: "Imperial Mail List" , "Brooks Harkey" , "Doug Norton"
Subject: IML: '62 Brake Distribution Block removal success
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2007 09:22:44 -0600


To the Group;

Sorry, false alarm! After looking closer at
the P/N 2123 218 front brake distribution block
using better lighting, I could see that as I
was trying to turn the fittings the entire
block was moving and the tubing wrench was not
applying full force. I used a straight and a
crooked end crow bar to stabilize the block
while I applied force to the wrench either with
a cheater pipe on the end of the wrench or the
second crow bar to exert more force. I managed
to break loose every fitting. Removing each
line was relatively easy then. The front
distribution block has no Chrysler part number
stamped on it. I don't know if any of them
ever did. It is possible that it may have had
an ink or paint stamped part number that came
off due to exposure to petroleum products over
the years. Here is a description of the part
looking down on the block from top to bottom:

Top fitting; 7/16", line to/from master cylinder
Second fitting to the right; 3/8", line to rear axle
Third fitting to the right; 3/8", line to left front wheel
Front fitting to left; 3/8", line to right front wheel

Now I will move on to the rear axle block, P/N
2070 311. I expect it will be easier to deal
with than the distribution block at the front
of the car. I will take the left front wheel
line to a friend soon to see if we can make a
new line from the OEM type 3/16" steel tubing I
bought a while back.

Joe

Fred Joslin

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