Re: IML: 1960 gauge/personality notes

[PAUL WENTINK <randalpark@xxxxxxx>]

A lower temperature thermostat will allow the full flow at a lower 
temperature and produce a lower reading on the gauge mostly for short 
trips. Once out on the highway, the engine is going to heat up past 
that point, and as was stated here, full flow is full flow once things 
are good and warm.

I think the problem with the lower temperature thermostat is that the 
engine doesn't warm up as quickly, so lots of short trips are more 
detrimental to the engine under those circumstances then ordinarily. 
Engines are suppose to be most efficient at their normal operating 
temperature, and tend to sludge up if not warmed up properly. More 
frequent oil changes are recommended for cars driven and shut down 
before they warm up properly. With newer oils this may not be as much 
of a problem, but our cars also allow more crank case vapors and 
deposits to accumulate than newer ones do. Adding to that the 
possibility of a worn engine producing even more crank case pollutants, 
I would think that a hotter thermostat would be a good idea.

Some manufacturers used water heated choke controls so using a colder 
thermostat could actually foul the engine.

Paul W.


-----Original Message-----
From: Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Wed, 24 Oct 2007 10:21 am
Subject: Re: IML: 1960 gauge/personality notes



> I understand your point of view with regard to the
> temp issue, but maybe
> you
> can make another thing clear to me.
> What was the the default OEM thermostat type that
> was fitted when our 1960
> Imperials leaved the factory?
> I thought it was 180F


I do not know why going to a 180 from a 160 would have
solved your problems.

If swapping thermostats out were a popular solution to
a problem, don't you think you'd have heard about it?
I have heard about rejetting carbs based on higher
altitude as an ajustment, and a few other things like
using anti-freeze or electrical block heaters where it
is cold, but I have not heard or read of different
regions needing different thermostats.

Therefore, I think that someone made a mistake and put
the wrong one in your car and that the 180 one is
different and you're now back to where you should be
(good news!)

If you look at the booklets, you'll see what I was
hoping you'd notice: 160 units are explicitly
specified for 413 engines in trucks with
thermostatically operated shutters on the grille.

180 is the only item I've ever heard about for
Imperial, but I don't know THAT much about it.

When a thermostat opens, it allows flow.
If a thermostat opens at a lower temp, that should not
make the car run cooler is my thought, but I am not
well qualified to say.

Perhaps the overall diameter of the different units is
different and the 160 flows more per minute for
industrial trucks that are presumed to be generating
more heat?

Once at operating temperature with the thermostat all
the way open, a 160 or 180 that's all the way open and
is the same diameter should yeild the same amount of
coolant flow, with perhaps the 160 yeilding MORE
cooled water through, since it stays open longer,
shutting only once the water has dropped back down
below 160. Full flow is full flow, and once you're at
200+, they both flow the same, since they're both
open.

Does that make sense to you?

I don't know. Since the stock unit corrected things,
perhaps this isn't all that important to research
anymore.

Did I mention that Chrysler was known for great
engineering and that putting things back to how they
came sure does seem to solve a lot of problems?



Kenyon Wills























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