----- Original Message -----
Sent: Tuesday, October 23, 2007 5:46
AM
Subject: Re: IML: 1960 Imperial brake
bleeding
Thanks for sharing this
Richard!,
Your father is absolutely right, you need to
adjust the cam adjusters (4 in the front and 2 in the rear) frequently to
get a good working braking system.
I have adjusted the way you father described
it, and I must say I have a firm pedal that travel only halfway to the
floor!
Maybe the other 60 owners, Paul, Tom, Kenyon
and Charles can jump in on this and tell us how much pedal travel they
have?
And since we are talking about 1960 Imps
here, what is the correct reading for the temperature of our
cars?
Since the weather is almost freezing cold
here, my car doesn't reach normal operating temperature. It just passed
the Cold mark on the dial and thats about it. Since it is a Californian
car I thought the former owner might have installed another termostat that
opens earlier, so I checked it and I was right!
The previous owner installed a 160 degrees
thermostat!, I guess to prevent the car from overheating in hot
Californian summers.
I now have installed a 180 degrees thermostat
(OEM standard temperature) and the needle on the gauge goes higher then
ever before! It now stays exactly in the middle of the dial.
Is this correct?
I have never seen the needle climbed that
high before, so I am a little worried allthough common sense tells me that
the middle of the dial sounds quite good...
Just curious to know the readings on other
1960 owners temperature gauges!
Thanks,
Robert
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 2:47
PM
Subject: IML: 1960 Imperial brake
bleeding
Hi Folks,
After spending countless hours working on the brakes on my '60
Crown they are finally working properly. I think we bled them
entirely three times before getting everything repaired properly.
The shop that "restored" my chasis did not double flare the brake lines
correctly and had overtightened the flares at the bronze blocks creating
distortion and leaks. We ended up replacing all of the lines again
and the blocks as well, at the front frame and on top of the axle.
The IML web site was helpful but did not really address the issue of
pedal going to the floor. See below. Another tip, we
elevated our brake bleeding bottle on a small step ladder, that really
helped keeep the air from returning to the cylinders during the bleeding
process. After all of this my father had this to say:
For Imperial Club under "Repair" , "Brakes", "Brake
Bleeding".
The 1960 Imperial and like years brake systems can be perfectly
bled and the pedal still go to the floor if the brake shoes are not
adjusted to require minimal movement to brake the
drum. The bottom line is that with six cylinders to provide
fluid too, the master cylinder will be at the end of its stroke (to the
floor) before the wheel cylinders have enough fluid (pressure) to push
the shoes tight against the drums. Chrysler knew this,
as in the Maintenance Manual under "Pedal goes to Floor" you (a) check
fluid in master cylinder and (b) adjust for worn
linings. The obvious implication is that it does not take
much slack at the brake shoes to allow the pedal to go to the
floor. With the shoes properly adjusted tight against the drum and
just loosened enough to allow the wheel to turn freely you still will
not have a firm pedal until you almost reach the floor. That's
just the way it is. If you want to see this then tighten all the
shoes against the drums and then see how much pedal you
have. You cannot see this by pumping the pedal as the strong shoe
return springs will push the fluid back out of the wheel cylinders
faster than you can stroke the master cylinder. Adjust the shoes
properly and frequently and you can get good
braking.
Richard Burgess
'60 Crown
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