Re: IML: 1960 Temperature Gauge

[therichardsonfamily@xxxxxxxxxxx]

I would like to confirm Dave's suggestion of using the temperature gun.  As I was flushing, cleaning, freeze plugging, and generally getting my cooling system back to functionality, a borrowed infra-red temp. gun was invaluable.  Especially since my "lesser" Chrysler has only an idiot light.  They are simple to use, accurate, and could be used for all kinds of temperature readings, i.e., tranny temp., rear axle temp., brake drum temp., A/C air duct temp., etc.

I believe they are less than $100 - and as Dave mentioned (which may force me to purchase my own), you can use them on the bar-bee.

Just a thought,

Dan Richardson
300L Family Heirloom


 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx
> One tool the driveway work shop should not be without, is an infrared temp 
> sensor. You can shoot the T-Stat housing, or return hose, or radiator top and 
> get a quick assessment of coolant temp. Add a few degrees, and check to see if 
> you're in range. A mechanical type also is helpful. The infrared is also good to 
> check the steaks on the bar-be as well. Dave.

--- Begin Message ---

• From: sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx
• Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 13:56:05 +0000

One tool the driveway work shop should not be without, is an infrared temp sensor. You can shoot the T-Stat housing, or return hose, or radiator top and get a quick assessment of coolant temp. Add a few degrees, and check to see if you're in range. A mechanical type also is helpful. The infrared is also good to check the steaks on the bar-be as well. Dave.

 

-------------- Original message --------------
From: PAUL WENTINK <randalpark@xxxxxxx>

> The gauges on these cars (1960 through 1963) were never very accurate.
> Adding to this problem, over the years voltage regulator failures have
> often overheated them. The regulators are notorious for burning out and
> pegging the gauges. Usually, they can be saved if the car is
> immediately shut down, but this can happen anyplace, and disconnecting
> the gauges on the fly isn't a simple job. Most of them are just run
> until they get too hot or burn out completely.
>
> The cooling systems on our cars is able to handle just about anything,
> as long as it is properly maintained and in good condition. I am okay
> watching functional gauges for readings that are out of the ordinary.
> The temperature and oil pre ssure gauges on most of my '60 through '63
> Imperials read low, possibly due to what was explained previously. I
> checked the actual temperature and oil pressure by having the cars
> tested at the shop under normal operating conditions.
>
> If I see the temperature gauge move high, or in the case of oil
> pressure, low I shut it down and check for a problem. This occurred on
> my '62 once after exiting a freeway. The temperature gauge suddenly
> began to climb. Pulling over and checking things, I found a broken
> belt. The car did not reach boiling, and I was able to change the belt
> and resume my trip without trouble or having damaged the engine.
>
> I think that the key here is to get to know your car, and then watch
> and listen for change. That is usually the first sign of trouble. J.C.
> Auto can rebuild and recalibrate the gauges on these cars if you want
> them to read properly. Their contact information is on the OIC we site.
> They do an excellent job.
>
> Paul W.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: sjak brak
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Tue, 23 Oct 2007 2:17 am
> Subject: IML: 1960 temperature gauge, was: 1960 Imperial brake bleeding
>
>
>
> In my experience from the speedshop, the original Mopar gauges can
> often get very inaccurate over the years. This can have various causes.
>
> Â
>
> The only way to correctly check the temperature is to install a
> calibrated gauge and sending unit. This will not affect the originality
> of the car, since you can remove it after comparing the readings from
> the calibrated unit with the one on your dash.
>
>
> Â
>
> On 10/23/07, Rob van der Es wrote:
>
>
> Thanks for sharing this Richard!,
>
> Â
>
> Your father is absolutely right, you need to adjust the cam adjusters
> (4 in the front and 2 in the rear) frequently to get a good working
> braking system.
>
> I have adjusted the way you father described it, and I must say I have
> a firm pedal that travel only halfway to the floor!
>
> Â
>
> Maybe the other 60 owners, Paul, Tom, Kenyon and Charles can jump in on
> this and tell us how much pedal travel they have?
>
> Â
>
> And since we are talking about 1960 Imps here, what is the correct
> reading for the temperature of our cars?
>
> Since the weather is almost freezing cold here, my car doesn't reach
> normal operating temperature. It just passed the Cold mark on the dial
> and thats about it. Since it is a Californian car I thought the former
> owner might have installed another termostat that opens earlier, so I
> checked it and I was right!
>
> Â
>
> The previous owner installed a 160 degrees thermostat!, I guess to
> prevent the car from overheating in hot Californian summers.
>
> I now have installed a 180 degrees thermostat (OEM standard
> temperature) and the needle on the gauge goes higher then ever before!
> It now stays exactly in the middle of the dial.
>
> Is this correct?
>
> I have never seen the needle climbed that high before, so I am a little
> worried allthough common sense tells me that the middle of the dial
> sounds quite good...
>
> Â
>
> Just curious to know the readings on other 1960 owners temperature
> gauges!
>
> Â
>
> Thanks,
>
> Â
>
> Robert
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: richard burgess
>
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ; Kenyon Wills ; Larry Blomburg
>
> Sent: Monday, October 22, 2007 2:47 PM
>
> Subject: IML: 1960 Imperial brake bleeding
>
>
> Â
>
>
> Hi Folks,
>
> Â
>
> After spending countless hours working on the brakes on my '60 Crown
> they are finally working properly. I think we bled them entirely three
> times before getting everything repaired properly. The shop that
> "restored" my chasis did not double flare the brake lines correctly and
> had overtightened the flares at the bronze blocks creating distortion
> and leaks. We ended up replacing all of the lines again and the blocks
> as well, at the front frame and on top of the axle. The IML web site
> was helpful but did not really address the issue of pedal going to the
> floor. S ee below. Another tip, we elevated our brake bleeding bottle
> on a small step ladder, that really helped keeep the air from returning
> to the cylinders during the bleeding process. After all of this my
> father had this to say:
>
> Â
>
>
>
> For Imperial Club under "Repair" , "Brakes", "Brake Bleeding".
>
> Â
>
> The 1960 Imperial and like years brake systems can be perfectly bled
> and the pedal still go to the floor if the brake shoes are not adjusted
> to require minimal movement to brake the drum. The bottom line is
> that with six cylinders to provide fluid too, the master cylinder will
> be at the end of its stroke (to the floor) before the wheel cylinders
> have enough fluid (pressure) to push the shoes tight against the
> drums. Chrysler knew this, as in the Maintenance Manual under "Pedal
> goes to Floor" you (a) check fluid in master cylinder and (b) adjust
> for worn linings . The obvious implication is that it does not take
> much slack at the brake shoes to allow the pedal to go to the floor.Â
> With the shoes properly adjusted tight against the drum and just
> loosened enough to allow the wheel to turn freely you still will not
> have a firm pedal until you almost reach the floor. That's just the
> way it is. If you want to see this then tighten all the shoes against
> the drums and then see how much pedal you have. You cannot see this by
> pumping the pedal as the strong shoe return springs will push the fluid
> back out of the wheel cylinders faster than you can stroke the master
> cylinder. Adjust the shoes properly and frequently and you can get
> good braking.  Â
>
> Â
>
> Richard Burgess
>
> '60 Crown
>
>
>
> Â
>
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