RE: IML: non starting 1983 EFI Found the problem, NOW WHAT?

[Bill Longest <billlongest@xxxxxxxxx>]

John,
Thank you, I need an anti oxidant compound for the
ground wires.

Bill
--- "John L. Chesnutt" <chesnutt@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Hi Bill,
> 
> Maybe this will help, if it is a push on connection.
> I use a product called
> "GB OX-GARD", which guards against oxidation, it is
> an "Anti-Oxidant
> Compound for Wire Connections and Aluminum Conduit
> Joints. It comes in a
> tube - 4 oz. Made in USA by GB Electrical, Inc.,
> Milwaukie, WI. I have used
> it in tail light sockets and other joints.
> 
> John Chesnutt, Portland, Oregon
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> Behalf Of Bill Longest
> Sent: Saturday, October 06, 2007 4:47 PM
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: IML: non starting 1983 EFI Found the
> problem, NOW WHAT?
> 
> I played with the car today to get it to start and
> run. It now does both BUT the issue is inside the
> rubber housing of the ADSM wire.  It is the yellow
> wire. If I push on that wire, the car stalls and
> will
> not restart until I wiggle it around to make
> contact.
> 
> It there a way to get the wires out of the rubber
> housing to solder them back onto the copper
> receptacles? Can replacement be purchased?
> 
> Please Help!!
> 
> Bill Longest
> 
> 
> 
> --- DickB@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
> 
> > You can check your ballast resistor with an
> > ohm-meter - I would do that
> > before replacing it  - they very seldom fail
> unless
> > a terminal has worked
> > loose or some other easily seen and diagnosed
> > physical problem is evident.
> > There are no tricky parts here - it is simply a
> > length of resistance wire
> > connected to each terminal.  The white stuff is
> > merely an insulating medium
> > - because the wire gets HOT!
> > 
> > I am suspicious of the ground connection on your
> > ASDM, since this was the
> > last thing fiddled with.  I'd remove that wire and
> > inspect both ends of it,
> > making sure that there is nothing but clean,
> bright
> > metal contact to the
> > ASDM metal case and the alternator bracket or
> other
> > known solid ground
> > point.  If you have the equipment to do it, solder
> > both ends to the terminal
> > lugs, don't trust "crimped on" connectors! 
> > 
> > If this doesn't fix it, try this:  Loosen the wing
> > nut in the center of the
> > air cleaner lid, and put about 1 or 2 ounces of
> gas
> > in the depression, let
> > it drain down the threads of the screw, then
> tighten
> > the wing nut and
> > immediately try to start the car normally,   If it
> > starts right up, we know
> > the problem was lack of fuel.  If it continues to
> > run well until the next
> > time you need to start it, and then refuses to
> start
> > again, we know that the
> > problem is lack of fuel during cranking.
> > 
> > The next thing to check is to put a test light or
> a
> > meter on the dark green
> > wire that goes back to the in-tank pump.   While
> you
> > are trying to start it,
> > there should be 12 volts on this point.  You
> should
> > also hear the control
> > fuel pump (in the air cleaner HSA) cycle on and
> off
> > when you first twist the
> > key to "on".  (sort of a 1 second "grunt" from the
> > air cleaner area).
> > 
> > If this all seems correct, next check to see if
> the
> > 23 volt power supply is
> > running (you'll have to use a meter to do this -
> the
> > test light would
> > overload the power supply)?  I hope you have a
> > wiring diagram (it's in the
> > manuals) so you can find these points.
> > 
> > If there is no 12 volts going back to the in-tank
> > pump, the ASDM has tripped
> > - and you will have to cycle the key off and then
> > back on to try again - if
> > still no 12 volts there, it is possible the ASDM
> has
> > failed - you can bypass
> > it for testing purposes, although you will not
> have
> > all the built in safety
> > of the original system.   To bypass it, just
> unplug
> > the harness to the ASDM
> > and connect a wire between the two heavy wires on
> > the plug that goes to the
> > ASDM - this tells the system to "do it - dammit
> and
> > forget all the safety
> > lockouts".
> > 
> > Dick Benjamin
> > 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> > Behalf Of Bill Longest
> > Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 8:23 AM
> > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: IML: non starting 1983 EFI
> > 
> > 
> > My 1983 stalled on me today.  It had been doing
> fine
> > for the last 8 months once I grounded the shut
> down
> > module to the radiator support.  Last week I
> decided
> > to fix my horn and I moved the horn ground wire
> and
> > the horn worked.  However the car began to "shut
> > down".  It shut down twice but always started
> after
> > a
> > few minutes. So, I moved the shut down module
> ground
> > wire to the alternator ground as Dick B. had said
> to
> > do in the website notes. Ran fine for one day. 
> This
> > morning it stopped and would not restart even
> after
> > an
> > hour.  I have pulled the ballast resistor and I am
> > attempting to find a five prong resister, but NAPA
> > does not have one in their books or on the shelf. 
> > 
> > It seems to shut down about 5 min after starting
> and
> > was  not shutting down again for the entire trip.
> > 
> > But, as I said, today is will not restart. Any
> other
> > ideas?
> > 
> > Bill Longest
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >        
> >
>
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> > 
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