RE: IML: non starting 1983 EFI

[Bill Longest <billlongest@xxxxxxxxx>]

Thank You!! I will try it tonight and let you know.  
THanks again, Bill
--- DickB@xxxxxxxxx wrote:

> You can check your ballast resistor with an
> ohm-meter - I would do that
> before replacing it  - they very seldom fail unless
> a terminal has worked
> loose or some other easily seen and diagnosed
> physical problem is evident.
> There are no tricky parts here - it is simply a
> length of resistance wire
> connected to each terminal.  The white stuff is
> merely an insulating medium
> - because the wire gets HOT!
> 
> I am suspicious of the ground connection on your
> ASDM, since this was the
> last thing fiddled with.  I'd remove that wire and
> inspect both ends of it,
> making sure that there is nothing but clean, bright
> metal contact to the
> ASDM metal case and the alternator bracket or other
> known solid ground
> point.  If you have the equipment to do it, solder
> both ends to the terminal
> lugs, don't trust "crimped on" connectors! 
> 
> If this doesn't fix it, try this:  Loosen the wing
> nut in the center of the
> air cleaner lid, and put about 1 or 2 ounces of gas
> in the depression, let
> it drain down the threads of the screw, then tighten
> the wing nut and
> immediately try to start the car normally,   If it
> starts right up, we know
> the problem was lack of fuel.  If it continues to
> run well until the next
> time you need to start it, and then refuses to start
> again, we know that the
> problem is lack of fuel during cranking.
> 
> The next thing to check is to put a test light or a
> meter on the dark green
> wire that goes back to the in-tank pump.   While you
> are trying to start it,
> there should be 12 volts on this point.  You should
> also hear the control
> fuel pump (in the air cleaner HSA) cycle on and off
> when you first twist the
> key to "on".  (sort of a 1 second "grunt" from the
> air cleaner area).
> 
> If this all seems correct, next check to see if the
> 23 volt power supply is
> running (you'll have to use a meter to do this - the
> test light would
> overload the power supply)?  I hope you have a
> wiring diagram (it's in the
> manuals) so you can find these points.
> 
> If there is no 12 volts going back to the in-tank
> pump, the ASDM has tripped
> - and you will have to cycle the key off and then
> back on to try again - if
> still no 12 volts there, it is possible the ASDM has
> failed - you can bypass
> it for testing purposes, although you will not have
> all the built in safety
> of the original system.   To bypass it, just unplug
> the harness to the ASDM
> and connect a wire between the two heavy wires on
> the plug that goes to the
> ASDM - this tells the system to "do it - dammit and
> forget all the safety
> lockouts".
> 
> Dick Benjamin
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
> Behalf Of Bill Longest
> Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 8:23 AM
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: IML: non starting 1983 EFI
> 
> 
> My 1983 stalled on me today.  It had been doing fine
> for the last 8 months once I grounded the shut down
> module to the radiator support.  Last week I decided
> to fix my horn and I moved the horn ground wire and
> the horn worked.  However the car began to "shut
> down".  It shut down twice but always started after
> a
> few minutes. So, I moved the shut down module ground
> wire to the alternator ground as Dick B. had said to
> do in the website notes. Ran fine for one day.  This
> morning it stopped and would not restart even after
> an
> hour.  I have pulled the ballast resistor and I am
> attempting to find a five prong resister, but NAPA
> does not have one in their books or on the shelf. 
> 
> It seems to shut down about 5 min after starting and
> was  not shutting down again for the entire trip.
> 
> But, as I said, today is will not restart. Any other
> ideas?
> 
> Bill Longest
> 
> 
> 
> 
>        
>
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