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Ouch! Leaving the ignition on was not a good thing.
I can’t recall if the 76 motors had moved away from points yet, but if it
has points and they were closed that means there was continuous voltage to the
coil. If it were the breaker-less ignition system it could have
still put continuous voltage to the coil. Either way you need to break
out the butter because the coil is toast. But it doesn’t mean that
the ignition module didn’t suffer permanent damage either. With a
continuous coil load the module may have died first. The ballast
resistors are usually pretty hearty but it would hurt to unplug it and measure
it with an ohm meter. It should have a few ohms of resistance. If
it’s open, it’s bad. If it were me, I’d replace the coil, the resistor and the
distributor components. They’re all relatively inexpensive.
If you replace one item and the engine starts, it doesn’t mean you’re
out of the woods. One of the other components may have suffered serious
damage as well. It’s just waiting until you’re 20 miles from
home before it fails. Ken 67 Crown 4 Dr Ht 68 LeBaron 4 Dr Ht From:
mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Acuda4me@xxxxxxx I know it's not quite on topic, but it has a 440 like many
Imperials (obligitory Imperial content) did. Okay, I'm a bonehead, I left the key in the run position while
doing some wrenching and forgot about it overnight and the battery died or
course. But now I have recharged the battery and my Ramcharger still won't
start. It's a 1976 Ramcharger with 440/727/4x4. Could I have fried the ECU or
ballast resistor? Cables & coil were both replaced in the last month. I
hitting the carb with starting fluid anfd there's no hint of fire, so I'm
guessing it's electrical.
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