Re: IML: '62 Brake System Repair

[<mopar413@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Be sure that you use a double flar tool if you make up you own lines.
---- randalpark@xxxxxxx wrote: 
> The car did not come with a proportioning valve, and I think you will 
> have to make you own metal lines. I haven't seen any NOS made for the 
> Imperial in recent years. Get a tube bender, they are not difficult to 
> make. Be sure to clean out the brass "T" s as they can collect crap 
> which could spoil your brake job once it travels through the system.
> 
> Paul W.
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Joe Strickland <jwstrick426@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Sent: Wed, 8 Aug 2007 9:52 am
> Subject: IML: '62 Brake System Repair
> 
> 
> 
> To all who responded - Thanks.
> 
> No, I did not mean to imply that I was going to re-use what was there, 
> just that
> I am curious to see what shape they are in.  All the wheel cylinders 
> had been
> replaced back in '99 on this car.  The master cylinder was sent out to 
> a repair
> facility which advertised in Hemmings and was re-sleeved with stainless 
> steel at
> that time.  I don't think new master cylinders are avialable, but I 
> will check.
> I intend to replace wheel cylinders if I can find new ones.  If not it 
> might be
> time to send them off to be re-sleeved too.  In any case all the 
> internal parts
> would have to be replaced to get good sealing under load.  I plan to 
> check with
> my local NAPA store or AutoZone or O'Reiley's to see what I can find as 
> new
> replacements.  If I don't find parts available locally, then it will 
> probably be
> Andy Bernbaum or others listed on the club website.  NAPA charged 
> $61.37 plus
> tax for a set of flex hoses.
> 
> I was successful in removing the left rear drum this morning.  The 
> hub/drum
> puller worked its magic.  The drum came off relatively easily.  There 
> was much
> less struggle that when Jim Payne and I worked on his 61 Le Baron using 
> a J. C.
> Whitney hub/drum puller.  Not only was there less struggle, the 
> pressure
> applying bolt stayed centered on the axle shaft like it should have.  
> Once I had
> enough pressure applied I used light taps of a 3 lb. sledge hammer all 
> the way
> around the stamped steel portion of the drum assembly and also near the 
> lug
> studs and it popped loose.  The large castle nut and washer kept it 
> from flying
> off.  Then some additional pressure from the bolt on the puller got the 
> drum off
> after the castle nut and washer had been removed.
> 
> It might be a good idea to take wheel cylinders along when I try to get 
> parts
> ordered.  Sometimes parts catalogs of vendors show pictures as well as 
> listing
> in a table.  Here are the Chrysler part numbers that I believe are 
> correct for
> the '62 Imperial:
>      Rear Wheel Cylinders   1857 051, both left and right
>      Front Wheel Cylinders  1857 055, Front upper left
>                             1857 053, Front lower left
>                             1857 054, Front upper right
>                             1857 052, Front lower right
> 
> The left rear wheel cylinder bore shows considerable rust along the 
> bottom edge
> toward the extreme travel position of one of the pistons.  It looks bad 
> enough
> that honing would probably not correct the pitting.  I expect the other 
> wheel
> cylinders will be in similar condition.
> 
> An interesting discovery I made when I got the left rear drum off was 
> that the
> rear leading shoe wheel cylinder boot was cooked to the point of being 
> cracked
> and brittle.  The rear following shoe wheel cylinder boot was not quite 
> so
> damaged.  The the leading shoe showed almost no wear, but the following 
> shoe
> showed considerable wear and some evidence of overheating.  I believe 
> that when
> Preston Chrysler worked on the car years ago that the mechanic who 
> serviced it
> did not know how to properly adjust the rear following shoes and had 
> them too
> tight.  That is probably why the brakes smoked badly when I drove it 
> home.  At
> the time I did not have a service manual for the car and did not bother 
> to check
> the adjustment of each wheel myself.  I wish I had now.  I may have bee 
> enjoying
> the car for the last eight years instead of letting it sit and 
> deteriorate.
> 
> All rear brake adjusters seem to have adequate resistance to turning.  
> I don't
> think the tension on them is bad.  I do think it would be best to have 
> new brake
> shoe return springs on the car, especially the rear brakes.  After 
> getting the
> rear brake drums so hot it may have caused the springs to loose some of 
> their
> tension.
> 
> One of my biggest fears at this point is that both rear drums may have 
> been
> warped by the drive home after the dealer worked on it.  By the time I 
> got the
> car home smoke was pouring out from both rear wheels.  The front brakes
> continued to enable me to stop OK.  I did get some replacement rear 
> drums from
> Bob Hoffmeister years ago.
> 
> I have a friend who said he would help me make new brake line tubes, 
> unless one
> of our vendors listed on the club website has reproductions available.  
> Has
> anyone checked for brake lines on the '62 models?
> 
> I haven't looked yet, but is there a proportioning valve for front to 
> rear brake
> pressure balance?  I am guessing that it would have been made of brass 
> and not
> too likely to go bad.  Ditto for the rear axle "T".  I don't want to 
> crawl
> around under the car anymore than I have to at this point.
> 
> Joseph W. Strickland
> 1021 Vaughan Lane
> Tioga, TX 76271-2937
> 
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