Re: IML: Convertible top mechanism - 1966

[Chris Hawkins <imperial1966@xxxxxxxxx>]

If no leaks are evident at the pump, then the second
most common area is at the power cylinders on each
side of the car.  Typically the polished chrome rods
corrode from non-use, then they abrade the seal at the
top of the cylinder causing fluid to leak out.  Use
'em or lose 'em.

When fluid does leak out of these cylinders it wells
up in a cavity beneath the side armrests. 
Unfortunately, you will need to remove the entire rear
seat, along with the armrest assemblies to check this.

The tops frames on these cars have rather brittle
hinge points.  Should one of the cylinders fail and
the top get torqued, the possiblity of a broken hinge
should send chills down your spine.  The top frame is
some kind of cast (aluminum?) alloy that apparently
cannot be easily welded or repaired.  Better to change
out your cylinders if they are at all rusty or
corroded.  Do it now or do it later, you'll surely
have to do it.  Also, keep the hinge points well
lubricated.

Top motors rarely wear out, but they can loose fluid
and burn up.  If your top can be raised/lowered by
hand it probably indicates a low fluid situation. 
Otherwise, hydraulic pressure would prevent that.  

Also, transmission fluid works great and is far less
dangerous to paint than brake fluid in these systems.

Chris H.


> Questions:  
> ===========================
> 1.  Pump IS under the top-well cover against the
> rear
> seat-back?  Phillips heads securing the covt top
> "well" are rusted and funky and I don't want to tear
> them up if I don't have to.  They resisted casual
> removal and I decided to let sleeping dogs lie.
> 
> Shall I presume that I'll have to wake those dogs up
> to get that area apart for inspection?
> 
> 2.  If the pupm reservoir is low/dry, that means it
> leaked.  What are the weak points?  Anything I
> should
> expect, like having to redo lines or something? 
> 
> 3.  Are these parts a rehab sort of thing?  A search
> of the Archives reveals Hydro Electric's website and
> I
> saw abut $500 in parts for pump and pistons. 
> Presume
> that they charge for lines too (I would), so guess
> that's $600.  
> 
> -Should I presume that things just need replacement,
> or can I pound on something with a hammer and wave
> my
> hands and save money?  If the thing's leaking, maybe
> the pump is OK and providing the pressure to
> evacuate
> the fluid out the hole wherever that is? 
> 
> Thanks in advance - I have not worked on a
> convertible before.
> 
> Kenyon Wills
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