--- Christopher Carter <rexcarter@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > I have decided to have major mechanical restoration > work done to my '64, > engine rebuild, transmission, rear end, a/c, > suspension and steering. A serious undertaking. Everyone here supports you. Be prepared to learn more and advise your technician. It should be your job to know as much as possible about the car and where resources are to be found. Learning how the club webiste's resources are laid out might save you serious "research" charges, as good restoration places don't just do the work, they must educate themselves first. If I were trusting my car to someone else, I'd print out the 1963, 1964, & 1965 libraries of MTSC books, bind them, and hand them over along with a copy of the Service Manual for 1964. Go through all of the titles one by one verbally with the guy or he'll ignore them. Show him where they are online for when he loses your prints, and check in regularly. If the place does not have a penchant for MOPAR, RUN SCREAMING FROM THE BUILDING AND DO NOT LOOK BACK. You have been warned. Suggest that you leave the rear end untouched internally - they just don't wear out. New lubricant and wire wheel/paint the exterior and you're good to go unless there's a problem there. Even then, I'd replace with used rather than rebuild, but that's me, since there are plenty around. Suggest that you break things down into phases where you do related tasks so that you have mileposts where you can rest financially and test/sort the work that's been done so far rather that committing to a full-blown restoration. Here's how I did it/am doing it on my '72: Phase I ========================== Goal: Mechanical soundness/dependability/drivability -------------------------- Engine rebuid - mild boost on cam All associated accessories rebuilt/replaced Alternator/Regulator Water/Oil Pump Carb Power Steering Pump Reused existing AC pump - will do that subsystem later. Radiator recored Transmission/Torque convertor redone Driveshaft (and bearing support in cars that need it. Be certain to tell them to MARK THE DRIVESHAFTS FOR RE-ASSEMBLY. They are balanced as a pair, and will bedevil you if re-assembled incorrectly. New Belts/Hoses/Power Steering Hoses/thermostat Steering box, if needed. Do while engine is OUT. Diagnose PRIOR to engine removal if the car is drivable at all. You can do this yourself. Call me on the phone and I can walk you through it - EASY. They're 5 times easier to work on/remove/reinstall without an engine cluttering up the engine compartment. Insist on the box being built LOOSE/light. Otherwise you'll get a "muscle car" redo and it's firmer. Ask me how I know. Wheel should be feather light with engine running. Mine's not (to my mild annoyance), but I'm too lazy to swap it out. Paint Engine compartment when engine is out - NOW IS YOUR CHANCE! ================== Phase II ----------------- Goal: Safety, ride Brakes - MC, 4 Wheel Cylinders, Shoes, Soft lines Front end rebuild - Bushings, ball joints, steering linkages, shocks. Air Conditioning Auto Pilot (if so equipped). =================== Phase III Interior =================== Phase IV Goal: Cosmetic completion Exterior - Chrome, bodywork, paint, glass (as needed) Stainless trim polished, chrome replated as needed. Optional now or when engine is out: Lift car and use a grinder with a wire rope wheel to strip the frame-rails, leaf-springs, rear-end, etc. Spray Eastwood "Chassis Black" on framerails and all other exposed metal components (before new shocks are installed). Have the parts that are done during front end work done at that time. You will have things like front suspension components stripped of greasy build-up? Paint them. Nothing new goes in without being painted. Nothing old goes back on without being cleaned and painted? Re-coat everything else with new rubberized undercoating. Expensive labor that you "could" do yourself to a much higher standard if you DIY. Leave cosmetics on the outside till last so that they don't get fouled by other work. I left off Tires. Suggest that you not get nice tires until you are done with paint and body, unless you're dying to drive the car and the bodywork has to wait for time or money reasons. Nothing like overspray to make hash out of $1000 of rubber. Unless you get 3 wheels and your spare to take the beating during the paint portion. Do yourself a GIANT favor and get Bias Ply tires? They really do make the car ride and look super. That was $50,000 of work if you pay someone else to do it all, I bet. $25k if you get a really good deal and cut some corners. Let us know what your potential restorer is asking/quoting? No restoration shop worth their pay will give you a blanket estimate. Expect them to charge $5000 to dismantle and estimate. You can go from there. By compartmentalizing, you cut the number of variables and won't face nearly the setbacks if taken in successive chunks. Kenyon Wills ____________________________________________________________________________________ Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/ ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to iml.webmonster@xxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm