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Hmmm,
That is indeed the last option to choose from
:)
I will take care not to damage anything I promise,
but then this stuff is 47 years old...
At least I hope these bolts don't break while
turning them after Lord knows how many years..
Thanks again and lots of kuddo's to
all,
Rob
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, June 23, 2007 2:47
AM
Subject: Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and
Torsion Bar Adjustment
Hi Robert:
I was going to put this in the previous post but chose not to.
You can get new over sized bolts and drill and tap the anchors to fit the
new bolts.
This is probably the last option that you want to take, but it would
work.
Also, if you go this way you can use metric stuff if you
want.
-----
Original Message -----
From: "Rob van der Es"
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject:
Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and Torsion Bar Adjustment
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2007
22:49:46 +0200
Thanks a lot Fred!,
But what if I strip the threads of the anchors
then? I am not to worried about the bolts you see, a good hardware dealer
can supply those I am sure.
But are those T-bar anchors still
available?
Does anyone have a source in case I need
them?
Ofcourse I can ask Lowell or Bob, but if I
prefer new ones, are they still available ?
Thanks again,
Rob
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, June 22, 2007 5:27
PM
Subject: Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and
Torsion Bar Adjustment
Robert:
I believe that you can fully remove the adjuster bolts and then
replace them with no problem. I would apply penetrating oil and then
remove them from the car. It is easier to remove them than tighten them if
they are a littl fouled. Clean up the threads with solvent and a wire
brush and check the condition.
When adjusting the height up count the number of turns it takes. If
both torsion bars are in about the same condition, it should take close to
the same number of turns for a level front end. You can adjust the bolts
with the front end off the ground and then lower it to chech the ride
height. I would suggest this since it put less stress on the bolts (and on
you).
Note that you may have some "worn out" threads especially from rust,
but if they are in a section of the bolt that you do not need to "bite"
into for your ride height that will not matter. What you have to do is get
past that section. This is not ideal, but if it is all you can do........
-----
Original Message -----
From: "Rob van der Es"
To:
mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: A-arm Bushings and
Torsion Bar Adjustment
Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2007 16:34:35
+0200
Hello again Joe,
Thanks for your kind
suggestions!
I will certainly take care not to strip the
fine
threads of the adjuster bolts and the
anchors.
I will clean them
thoroughly and soak them for a while with penetrating oil.
I have
had a long search for replacement bolts
and anchors but I haven't
found any ..
So I hope that my adjusters are not stripped
already
, causing the low front end!
Ofcourse I will have a look at the
front lower
suspension arms too while I am there, just to
make
sure that the bushings are still there and
in good
condition.
Thanks again,
Robert
----- Original Message
----- From: "Joe
Strickland"
To:
"Imperial Mail List"
Sent: Friday,
June 22, 2007 3:42 PM
Subject: IML: A-arm Bushings and Torsion Bar
Adjustment
> Rob;
>
> Before you begin
adjusting your torsion bars,
> see if you can clean the threads
of the
> adjusting bolts with some brake cleaner or
>
perhaps kerosene to get as much dirt etc. off
> of the threads as
possible. Use of an old
> toothbrush or something similar might
help.
> Then use a liberal application of penetrating
>
oil on the adjusting bolts and levers and let
> them soak for a
day or so before trying to
> make the adjustments. You might want
to
> re-apply the penetrating oil to the bolts
> more than
one time. It may be a real problem
> if you stripped threads on
the bolts and/or
> the adjusting arm of the torsion bars. You
> might be able to find replacements, but there
> could be
a long time to find replacements.
>
> Be sure to examine the
A-arm bushings for
> missing chunks or completely gone bushings.
> As I mentioned before when these bushings
> disintegrate
and fall out it allows the
> associated metal parts of the A-arms
and
> steering elements to shift position enough
> that
the steering parts (especially the idler
> arm and the steering
pitman arm) to shift
> position and get in quite a bind while
> steering the car. You certainly don't want
> to wind up
with a broken idler arm stud or
> pitman arm stud while driving
down the road!
> Complete loss of control might result, with a
> crash into another car or into a pedestrian
> or bicycle
rider.
>
> Joe S.
>
>
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Fred Joslin
Fred Joslin
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