Re: IML: The half-lit dome light

["Rob van der Es" <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Tom,

It really sounds like a cracked wire to me, not too strange on our cars 
however.
I noticed that the previous owner has made several repairs in the bundle of 
wires. So I am starting to wonder now if he has done it properly.

Hopefully I can catch this gremlin :)
And ofcourse I whish you good luck with yours !

Robert
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tom Scott" <shelbyguy@xxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 2:10 PM
Subject: Re: IML: The half-lit dome light


> Rob,
> I'm about to do the same thing for a different reason.  My passenger side 
> front window stopped working.  I switched the switch and the motor to the 
> rear door and both work.  I figure it's either the wiring from the switch 
> to the motor, or more likely the wiring from the circuit breaker to the 
> switch. Where the wiring leaves the car and goes into the door seems the 
> likely culprit.
> Good luck with your wiring gremlin.  I' hoping a cracked wire jumps out at 
> me.
> Tom
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Rob van der Es" <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2007 5:21 AM
> Subject: Re: IML: The half-lit dome light
>
>
> > Hello again Joe,
> >
> > I haven't found the problem yet. Bad weather and lots of rain made me 
> > stay
> > away from the car that is parked on my drive way outside :(
> > Dutch garages just aren't big enough for 1960 Imperials I am afraid.
> >
> > If weather permits, I will have a look this weekend. I also have to
> > replace the backup light switch then, you know the one that is mounted on
> > the pushbutton assembly.
> >
> > You are right, cutting wires is a little drastic :)
> > I only cut the wires from the rear door post switches to see what happens
> > (those wires are easy accessible when you remove the sill plates on both
> > sides). But the light still stays on.
> >
> > As you suggested, I will try to remove the tape from the wire bundle at
> > the front passenger door to see what is wrong there.
> > I think one of the motor leads of the power window motor, or a wire at 
> > the
> > powerlock switch is at fault.
> >
> > Ofcourse I will let the group know what was wrong, as soon as I have 
> > found
> > the error!
> >
> > Robert
> >
> > Op Wo, 20 juni, 2007 12:05 am, schreef Joe Strickland:
> > > Rob;
> > >
> > >
> > > Did you ever find the cause/solution for the dome light being at half
> > > brightness?  You mentioned the possibility of cutting wires which 
> > > sounded
> > > drastic.  Perhaps by removing the electrical tape or other protective
> > > wrapping around the bundle of wires going to/from the passenger door you
> > > could move or flex individual wires until you find the offending wire.
> > > Then the wire could be replaced and the bundle of
> > > wires secured together again with electrical tape or whatever was
> > > originally used.
> > >
> > > The way the dome lamp circuit works is that there is 12 volts DC always
> > > present on the pink wiring to the lamp and the yellow wire coming from 
> > > the
> > > lamp receptacle is the side that gets grounded to turn the lamp on. As 
> > > you
> > > mentioned before, any other item that were to short to the yellow lead
> > > such as a motor winding etc. could make the lamp turn on at reduced
> > > brightness.
> > >
> > > If you have to replace a section of wire, be sure to get the same AWG
> > > gauge and try to find wire that has the same number and size of 
> > > individual
> > > strands that make up the overall AWG gauge size.
> > >
> > > I hope you find a solution.
> > >
> > >
> > > Joe S.
> > >
> > >
> > >
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> >
> >
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