To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject:
IML: 61 rear brake drum challenge
Date: Mon, 14 May 2007 02:21:11
-0400
Mark- could it be that the drum is
'frozen/rusted at/behind the wheel lug studs? It recently took me 3 days
of several hours each day to pull a wire wheel on my 72 E-Jag
V-12.
The grease on the splines (plus worn
splines) had become like glue and the tapered spline acted like the hub of
the center hole on abrake drum. So your heating the center, but what about
the drum near the lug nuts themselves?
If the wheel spins, then the shoe
distance should be 'OK' as far as pulling the
drum.
A few years ago I had a similar challeneg on
a simple drum brake on a Jensen GT. 13" wheels, you'd think no pronblem.
Had to torch for two weeks around the hub 7 the wheel lugs. RUST welding
had taken place.
We had another Jag club member trying to pull
a rear drum on a 50's Mark X. Same challenge as yours.
Took him several months- he had to wait till
spring (vs the winter) before he had success. The tapered hub was his
problem. He found the drum had rusted at the 'hub' as well as around the
wheel lug studs. Too bad you can't put the whole car in a freezer, then
heat the drum to help it 'pop'.
I remember a friend having the same challenge
in 2001 with a 49 Plymouth drum. He had to torch and cool (with water
spray from a glass cleaner spray bottle) for several weekends before he
had success. He also kept 'tapping' the drum all around while
turning it-the idea was to send vibration to the rust to 'break it up'.
Just passing on all the things I've seen in this arena.
Obviously 'something' is rusted or binding or
sticking- and the challenge is to figure out exactly what it is.
keep at it, don't dispair. We are here to give your moral
support!
Sherman
