Hi Tom, You are welcome!! Please feel free to send the cluster if you want me to do the conversion!I am more then pleased to help you out since you were so kind to offer me your rebuild starter!
Good luck with removing the cluster, Robert----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom Scott" <shelbyguy@xxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 4:59 PM Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit
Rob,Thank you very much!!! I think I'll pull it apart this weekend and see if I can change out the limiter. I may take you up on your offer...stay tuned.Tom----- Original Message ----- From: "Rob van der Es" <r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Thursday, May 10, 2007 5:12 AM Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unitHello again Tom, Sorry to hear about your bad luck with the instrument cluster! Paul is right here (isn't he always :), your voltage limiter (inside the Temp gauge) is defective. This is a sort of breakerpoints construction, with a bi-metal that is heated by the 12 Volts of your car battery. When the piece of metal has heated up the breakerpoints are opened, the bi-metal cools down then and the points are closed. The whole cycle starts again and again and again.... Resulting in a sort of constant voltage for the gauge of appr. 6 Volts.Glad to hear that you disconnected all the senders, so your gauges will besave then. It is very easy to fry them. You have to pull out the instrument cluster to gain access to the oldlimiter, you must disconnect it permanently from the terminals of the Tempgauge. In case you haven't pulled out the cluster before, it is very easy.Remove the chrome ring (one small Philips screw), unscrew the securing nutfor the time-adjustment knob of your clock, remove the the 3 larger Philips screws that are securing the cluster in the dash. Now you can pull out the cluster a little (those wires are not so long toget it all the way out) and remove all the wires that are connected to thegauges. Make a note how everything was connected if you still haven't found your FSM back. If you have the instrument cluster on the workbench, you can remove three other Philips screws that are holding the Temp gauge in place. You can take it out now. Now comes the tricky bit, remove the dial from the gauge (two small screws) but remove the small white wire that is running to a terminal on the dial first! You will see the inside of the Temp gauge now. It will be easy then to remove the remainings of your old limiter so that it is no longer connected to the terminals of the gauge. You can go now for a NAPA replacement, but if you are handy with a solder iron you can also go for a modern solid state voltage limiter. That is why the old remainings of your defective limiter must be removed, cause what we want to do is connected the the leads of the solid state device to the terminals of temp gauge. I have made this conversion a year ago and used the LT1083CP5 for it, it delivers a rocksteady 5 Volts and you can draw as much as 8 Amp. from it!It is a very small device and it can be easily mounted at the back of yourtemp gauge. The metal housing will be the heatsink for the voltage regulator/limiter then. I have make this conversion for almost a year ago now, and all the gauges are working trouble free since then.I know, this whole conversion thing sound rather complicated but it isn't!I don't know how much you are in a hurry (problaby as much as I am to get my car back on the road..) but please feel free to send the gauge (or complete cluster to me) and I will do the conversion for you.It will take 5 days to send it to me, and 5 days to send it back so within2 weeks you should be able to fit the instrument cluster again. Good luck, Robert Op Do, 10 mei, 2007 12:31 am, schreef Tom Scott:I disconnected all the senders so I don't fry my gauges. Can the voltagelimiter be replaced without taking the gauges out? Is it a simple remove and replace job or am I missing something? Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: <randalpark@xxxxxxx> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 6:22 PM Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unitThat part doesn't effect the voltage limiter. Paul W. -----Original Message----- From: rlkidd@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Wed, 9 May 2007 12:28 PM Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit Try unplugging the sender at the tank again. The rheostat may be bad in the new part. On Wed, 9 May 2007 12:10:52 -0700 (PDT) tom higgins <thomash85715@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:Why would this happen at the same time as the sender wasbeing changed out? Just a coincidence? Tom said the other gauges readnormal until the replacement device went in. randalpark@xxxxxxx wrote: The internal voltage limiter has failed. You will need to bypass it andinstall an external one on the back of the cluster. By being pegged thegauges are receiving too much voltage, so they will burn out very soon if you don't disconnect them. There is information about this at ther OIC web site. Paul W. -----Original Message----- From: shelbyguy@xxxxxxx To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Wed, 9 May 2007 10:46 AM Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit Well, I got my rebuilt fuel sender for my 60 Crown backlast night and I just got finished installing it. Prior to the rebuild,my fuel gauge remained on E at all times. The oil pressure gaugeworked as did the temperature and ammeter gauges. Now, after installingthe rebuilt fuel sender, the fuel gauge registers FULL even though Iknow there is only 3 gallons in the tank, the temp gauge pegged at H as did the oil pressure gauge. Anybody have any ideas what happened? ThanxTom 60 4dr Crown Southampton. ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. 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