Thanks for the compliment Paul :) Robert Op Do, 10 mei, 2007 1:01 pm, schreef randalpark@xxxxxxx: > This is totally correct and up to date on the process. Thanks for > spelling it all out Robert! > > Paul W. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: r.vdes@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > Sent: Thu, 10 May 2007 1:12 AM > Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit > > > Hello again Tom, > > > Sorry to hear about your bad luck with the instrument cluster! > Paul is right here (isn't he always :), your voltage limiter (inside the > Temp gauge) is defective. > This is a sort of breakerpoints construction, with a bi-metal that is > heated by the 12 Volts of your car battery. When the piece of metal has > heated up the breakerpoints are opened, the bi-metal cools down then and > the points are closed. The whole cycle starts again and again and > again.... > > Resulting in a sort of constant voltage for the gauge of appr. 6 Volts. > > > Glad to hear that you disconnected all the senders, so your gauges will > be save then. It is very easy to fry them. You have to pull out the > instrument cluster to gain access to the old limiter, you must disconnect > it permanently from the terminals of the Temp > gauge. > > In case you haven't pulled out the cluster before, it is very easy. > Remove the chrome ring (one small Philips screw), unscrew the securing > nut for the time-adjustment knob of your clock, remove the the 3 larger > Philips screws that are securing the cluster in the dash. > > > Now you can pull out the cluster a little (those wires are not so long > to get it all the way out) and remove all the wires that are connected to > the gauges. Make a note how everything was connected if you still haven't > found your FSM back. > > If you have the instrument cluster on the workbench, you can remove > three other Philips screws that are holding the Temp gauge in place. You can > take it out now. > > Now comes the tricky bit, remove the dial from the gauge (two small > screws) but remove the small white wire that is running to a terminal on > the dial first! You will see the inside of the Temp gauge now. > It will be easy then to remove the remainings of your old limiter so > that it is no longer connected to the terminals of the gauge. > > You can go now for a NAPA replacement, but if you are handy with a > solder iron you can also go for a modern solid state voltage limiter. That > is why the old remainings of your defective limiter must be removed, cause > what we want to do is connected the the leads of the solid state device to > the terminals of temp gauge. I have made this conversion a year ago and > used the LT1083CP5 for it, it delivers a rocksteady 5 Volts and you can > draw as much as 8 Amp. from it! > > It is a very small device and it can be easily mounted at the back of > your temp gauge. The metal housing will be the heatsink for the voltage > regulator/limiter then. > > I have make this conversion for almost a year ago now, and all the > gauges are working trouble free since then. > > I know, this whole conversion thing sound rather complicated but it > isn't! > > I don't know how much you are in a hurry (problaby as much as I am to > get my car back on the road..) but please feel free to send the gauge (or > complete cluster to me) and I will do the conversion for you. > > It will take 5 days to send it to me, and 5 days to send it back so > within 2 weeks you should be able to fit the instrument cluster again. > > > Good luck, > > > Robert > > > > Op Do, 10 mei, 2007 12:31 am, schreef Tom Scott: > >> I disconnected all the senders so I don't fry my gauges. Can the >> > voltage >> limiter be replaced without taking the gauges out? Is it a simple >> remove and replace job or am I missing something? Tom ----- Original >> Message ----- >> From: <randalpark@xxxxxxx> >> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >> Sent: Wednesday, May 09, 2007 6:22 PM >> Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit >> >> >> >> >>> That part doesn't effect the voltage limiter. >>> >>> >>> >>> Paul W. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: rlkidd@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >>> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >>> Sent: Wed, 9 May 2007 12:28 PM >>> Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit >>> >>> >>> >>> Try unplugging the sender at the tank again. The >>> rheostat may be bad in the new part. >>> >>> >>> >>> On Wed, 9 May 2007 12:10:52 -0700 (PDT) >>> tom higgins <thomash85715@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: >>>> Why would this happen at the same time as the sender was >>>> being changed out? Just a coincidence? Tom said the other gauges > read >>>> normal until the replacement device went in. >>>> >>>> randalpark@xxxxxxx wrote: The internal voltage limiter has failed. >>>> You will need to bypass it and >>>> install an external one on the back of the cluster. By being pegged > the >>>> gauges are receiving too much voltage, so they will burn out very >>>> soon if you don't disconnect them. >>>> >>>> There is information about this at ther OIC web site. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Paul W. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> -----Original Message----- >>>> From: shelbyguy@xxxxxxx >>>> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >>>> Sent: Wed, 9 May 2007 10:46 AM >>>> Subject: Re: IML: 60 fuel sender unit >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> Well, I got my rebuilt fuel sender for my 60 Crown back >>>> last night and I just got finished installing it. Prior to the > rebuild, >>>> my fuel gauge remained on E at all times. The oil pressure gauge >>>> worked as did the temperature and ammeter gauges. Now, after > installing >>>> the rebuilt fuel sender, the fuel gauge registers FULL even though >>>> I >>>> know there is only 3 gallons in the tank, the temp gauge pegged at > H as > >>>> did the oil pressure gauge. Anybody have any ideas what happened? > Thanx > >>>> Tom >>>> 60 4dr Crown Southampton. >>>> ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com >>>> ----------------- >>>> This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. >>>> Please reply >>>> to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared > with >>>> everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators >>>> should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go >>>> to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> > _____________________________________________________________________ > >>>> ___ >>>> >>>> >>> >>>> AOL now offers free email to everyone. 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