Re: IML: Brake Light Switch on '56

[randalpark@xxxxxxx]

It sounds to me like the switch is clogged with foreign material. I 
would suggest replacing it again.

I saw the post about the hydraulic switches possibly not being 
compatible with DOT 5. I haven't found that to be the case either. That 
type of switch was used through 1961. I have that type of switch in my 
1948 L.C., as well as my '55, '56, and both '60 Imperials. The switches 
do go bad, and they don't always leak. I had the most trouble with the 
one in my 1960 LeBaron, and that was before I changed everything over 
to Dot 5. Apparently, there was some crude in the lines on that car. 
Eventually, it worked its way into the switch. I was lucky that I 
didn't lose my brakes. I didn't know then that a switch problem like 
that could be a warning sign of a more serious problem.

Knowing what I do now about brakes, rotten Dot 3 fluid in old cars, and 
changing to Dot 5, I would consider a light switch problem like you 
describe, especially if it should continue after replacing the switch 
the second time, to be a possible indication of dirt in the system. On 
your car, it would likely be from it entering the reservoir during 
removal of the lid to check the level. It would be very easy for that 
to happen, and then work its way into the switch. If there is enough 
dirt in the system, it will also eventually cause the brakes themselves 
to not work either. A sign of this would be good brakes when the pedal 
is depressed gradually, with a super hard and non-responsive pedal when 
pushed suddenly for a panic type stop. It doesn't take very much dirt 
or very big clog to effect brake action seriously.

I apologize for saying that I thought you should look elsewhere, and 
then not suggesting what else to check. It has been that sort of a day. 
I would replace the switch, and see if that fixed the problem. If it 
happens again with the new switch, I would suspect foreign matter in 
the lines. That would indicate the need for a complete flush, or 
possibly replacement of all the lines, including the metal ones. The 
junctions should all be cleaned and inspected as well.

If a car sits long enough, and heaven forbid that the brake system was 
some how left open, such as if the master cylinder had been off for a 
few years, the fluid will turn gloppy and finally solid in the lines. 
Flushing them doesn't always get it all out.

I hope this helps.

Paul W.


-----Original Message-----
From: jcantor791@xxxxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 3:30 PM
Subject: RE: IML: Brake Light Switch on '56

Paul,

The switch works. It just doesn't turn the lights on until the pedal is 
near the bottom of it's travel and the car is either completely stopped 
or you're in the middle of a panic stop. It had been much better after 
I first replaced it and bleed the air out not only through the lines 
but also at the switch by loosening it and letting it drip out a few 
drops before retightening it. While the level in the reservoir is still 
within limits and the brakes themselves work well, the lights are no 
longer coming on soon enough. Where else could I look??

Jeff
'56 Sedan
Trenton, NJ

Subject: Re: IML: Brake Light Switch on '56
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2007 18:54:07 -0400
From: randalpark@xxxxxxx
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I hate to say this, but I have never had a problem with air in the=20
switch. Every one I have ever replaced worked immediately, and I 
have=20
done a lot of them. I have also adapted incorrectly threaded=20
substitutes when necessary by adding a fitting to the master 
cylinder=20
still with no trouble. If you can't make the lights work with the=20
original type switch, I would be looking else where for the problem.

Paul W.


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