Re: IML: electrical question. I hate electrical.

[randalpark@xxxxxxx]

Since it cranked when you shorted the relay, I suspect the ignition 
switch or neutral safety. If it didn't crank, I was going to suggest 
the wiring between the relay and the starter. That seems to be a weak 
spot. Since it cranked when you shorted there, its not that. You might 
check for spark when the ignition switch is on. If there is spark, that 
might help narrow down the trouble.

Paul W.

-----Original Message-----
From: imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Sun, 15 Apr 2007 2:10 PM
Subject: IML: electrical question.  I hate electrical.

72 coupe ran and drove fine.

Parked for 2 weeks.  Now no start.


When key is turned, the SIGNAL SENTRY light lights up,
which is normal, as there is no oil pressure to trip
the switch that turns it off.

Turning the key further to just before starter relay
contact illuminates the BRAKE SYSTEM light, which may
be part of the diagnostic test of the bulb, or more
likely is because the booster is fried and has been.

I've put about 10 miles on the car with the BRAKE
SYSTEM light illuminated, and there is a new booster
and complete brake system awaiting the car in the
garage, so that is a known problem - should not be
related to the no-start problem.

Anyway, when the key is just a hair away from tripping
the starter relay, I get both lights that start solid
and then start to flicker agressivley before slowing
down and winking out.   Both lights flicker on and off
with increasing frequency, and the entire fuse block
seems to be getting rapidly interrupted power, with
clicking as the relays are energized and then shorted
of power.

The wiring diagram shows that the relay making the
most noise at the fuse block is the power window relay
switch, and disconnecting it stops the flickering
current noise that is very audible in it, but I think
that is a symptom and not the problem, as the lights
continue to flicker on and off.

The symptom indicates to me that the ignition circuit
is flickering on/off, tending to off after starter
relay is connected and it heats up.  I got a cough or
two out of the engine that coincided with the lamps
being illuminated in that second, but the thing is
dead otherwise.  New engine, battery, etc. under the
hood.

Ignition switch?

Shorting the relay with the key in RUN does not start
the engine either, although it does turn over,
obviously.

I cleaned out the bulkhead connectors during engine
swap - do not suspect a corroded connection, and since
I've not touched wiring since driving it, do not
suspect a loose connection there.



Thoughts?





Kenyon Wills























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