Re: IML: Valve Cover Gaskets

[aeyn <mr85000@xxxxxxxxx>]

I just remembered the name of the material - neopreme.

Æyn

--- aeyn <mr85000@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> That was the one I used on my S/W (I remembered that it was
> orange, but I could not remember the material.) and I wish that
> I
> could find so more.  They were great and VERY resiliant.
> 
> Æyn
> 
> 
> --- sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> 
> > At one time, Chrysler offered in the High Performance parts,
> an
> > orange silicone type valve cover gasket. It was a Hi-Temp
> type,
> > and reusable. I used them on our solid lifter race motors, as
> > well as other B-RB engines.It worked better then any other
> > gasket we tried . I'm looking for the PN. and will post it,
> if
> > I can find it.Ya'll have a nice day, Dave.
> > 
> > -------------- Original message -------------- 
> > From: randalpark@xxxxxxx 
> > 
> > > I totally agree with this approach. It has worked well for
> me
> > for over 
> > > 35 years. 
> > > 
> > > Paul W. 
> > > 
> > > -----Original Message----- 
> > > From: fljoslin@xxxxxxxx 
> > > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> > > Sent: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 9:18 AM 
> > > Subject: Re: IML: Fuselage cars 
> > > 
> > > The method you describe is what I have used for valve
> covers,
> > 
> > > transmission pans and rear end covers. 
> > > 
> > > Clean both mating surfaces well and use a solvent (brake
> > cleaner) as 
> > > the final step. Attach the gasket to the "non car" surface
> > using a good 
> > > silicone sealer. Do not use any sealer on the "car"
> surface.
> > Attach the 
> > > cover and torque down. I usually use a 1/4" drive socket
> for
> > these type 
> > > of torque applications and go around about ten times at 1/4
> > turn each 
> > > until it feels good. The small ratchet reduces the amount
> of
> > torque 
> > > that you can apply. I know this is not very "scientific"
> but
> > I have 
> > > changed a few trans, rear end and valve covers like this
> and
> > never had 
> > > one leak. A good trick to remove any goop from the mating
> > surfaces is 
> > > to use a wire brush. You need to be very careful if it is
> on
> > the "car 
> > > side" so that you don't get anything into delicate areas.
> > However, if 
> > > you have the valve cover, trans pan, rear end cover off, a
> > wire brush 
> > > in a drill will make very quick work of any junk and not
> > damage 
> > > anything. Just make sure you clean it well afterwards. If
> you
> > do follow 
> > > the process of not applying any sealer to the car side of
> the
> > gasket, 
> > > there should be nothing on the other surface to remove
> > anyway. 
> > > 
> > > I have seen many shops going to the no gasket, silicone
> > sealer only 
> > > approach. I am not really sure why. I have seen these fail
> > (leak) and 
> > > it makes it a real B***H to remove. Not only is the cover
> > stuck on such 
> > > that you risk warping it to remove it, but the bolts can
> get
> > all gummed 
> > > up and very difficult to remove and you have goo all over
> the
> > car side 
> > > of the surfaces which is tough to remove. 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > > From: randalpark@xxxxxxx 
> > > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> > > Subject: Re: IML: Fuselage cars 
> > > Date: Tue, 13 Feb 2007 10:41:21 -0500 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > I find that it works best to glue them (good 
> > > quality rubber ones) in place in the valve 
> > > cover, before installing the valve cover on the 
> > > head. Occasionally, I have to tighten the bolts 
> > > a little bit, but I haven't had any other 
> > > problems. I have used this method several 
> > > times. I also find it easier to deal with 
> > > cleaning the valve cover rather than having the 
> > > scrape the head. Although the surface must be 
> > > cleaned, the less work I have to do on the 
> > > head, hanging over the fender, the easier it is 
> > > on my back. 
> > > 
> > > Paul W. 
> > > 
> > > -----Original Message----- 
> > > From: mr85000@xxxxxxxxx 
> > > To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> > > Sent: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 8:42 PM 
> > > Subject: Re: IML: Fuselage cars 
> > > 
> > > Have you tried to get rubber cover gaskets? I purchased
> some
> > in 
> > > 1980 for my 1972 Custom Suburban S/W with a 400 in it. 
> > > 
> > > I am going to see if I can get some for my 75's 440.
> RockAuto
> > has 
> > > them FEL-PRO Part # VS50145R Rubber coated fiber gaskets
> > $14.40 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Ã?â? yn & Patrick 
> > > 
> > > --- Brad Weikert wrote: 
> > > 
> > > > 
> > > > On Feb 12, 2007, at 6:30 PM, Kenyon Wills wrote: 
> > > > 
> > > > > Aside from a valve cover that refuses to seal despite 
> > > > > four tries... 
> > > > 
> > > > If you haven't tried it already you might want to try a
> > Fel-Pro 
> > > > blue 
> > > > stripe cork gasket and install it with NO sealant. That's
> > how 
> > > > I 
> > > > finally stopped the valve covers from leaking on my '73
> > 440. 
> > > > As the 
> > > > oil soaks into the cork the cork will expand and
> > (hopefully) 
> > > > seal the 
> > > > leaks. 
> > > > 
> > > > Brad 
> > > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
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> > > 
> > > Fred Joslin 
> > >
> >
>
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