Re: IML: Fuel Tank - checking the sending unit

["Chris Strohmeyer" <chrisstroh@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

What I've done with a bad float is buy a brass carb float of approximately 
the same size and make it work.

Chris Strohmeyer
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dick Benjamin" <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 8:32 PM
Subject: RE: IML: Fuel Tank - checking the sending unit


> Of course, if the float is full of fuel, the sender cannot work!   You can
> repair this yourself (use a hair dryer to heat the float with the hole at
> the lowest point) until no more fuel comes out, then solder up the hole.
>
> Dick Benjamin
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Lupe Rodriguez
> Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 7:31 PM
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: IML: Fuel Tank - checking the sending unit
>
> The dash fuel gauge worked at first and then it would only
> show half full and then barley registered anything with a
> full tank. After removing the fuel tank I discovered the
> float full of fuel.  I did ground the sender when I checked
> it with an ohm meter.
> Lupe
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Michael O. Mann" <mann340s@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 17, 2007 7:13 PM
> Subject: RE: IML: Fuel Tank - checking the sending unit
>
>
> Lupe,
>
> I don't know about repair, but it may help someone give you
> better
> information if we know how your gauge was acting.  Did it
> show full or near
> full all the time, as I'd expect with that resistance, or
> did it show very
> high or low, or act erratically?  Maybe somebody with more
> knowledge can
> interpret some symptoms.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Michael
>
>
>
>
>
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