Re: FW: Re: IML: Softwater vs 'my water'!
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Re: FW: Re: IML: Softwater vs 'my water'!



Hi Dave...thanks bunches for the background on the use of mineralized water...it kind of makes sense once I think about it though; using water with anything in it (such as a high mineral content) has got to change the characteristics of the 'water' itself......though I never thought of it before! ...and it makes me wonder what the local shop used along with the new antifreeze they were suposed to put in when they flushed the system in my LeBaron....suposedly!
Great story about your Dad and his part in 'growing crystals'!...I remember that when I was with AT&T for almost-30 years and worked with the guys at Bell LAbs a lot (I eventually worked at the Holmdel, NJ Bell Lab complex itself for 4 years after retiring from AT&T in '02) and there were photo's and all kinds of info about how they grew their own crystals for various projects...I think they grew them, or at least SOME of them, up in the Mass. branch of Bell Labs, can't remember the name of the place right now! ...but it was a HUGE building where they made and tested all kinds of equipment...back then it was called WESTERN ELECTRIC and not LUCENT though.
Thanks again for the info and have a great holiday!
DAn Melnik

---- sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote: 

=============


-------------- Forwarded Message: -------------- 
From: sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx 
To: <dansgarage@xxxxxxxxxxxx> 
Subject: Re: IML: Softwater vs 'my water'! 
Date: Sun, 03 Dec 2006 15:39:15 +0000 

Dan, Thanks, we're all great here. When it comes to Christmas shopping, I leave that to the professionals, Wife, and daughters.I just PAY for it! As for the water subject, I can relate to GOOD tap water, Detroit had water so good, we used it in batteries, and cooling systems. When I moved to FL. I tried that with my well water, after a few batteries, and radiators, I learned my lesson.Now nothing but distilled goes in. If you don't want to mess with mixing, just buy the pre-mix coolant (50-50) and go.One of the reasons why you want de-mineralize water in your cooling system, is there are always hot pockets in the cooling system, particularly in the cylinder heads. When the mineralized water is super heated, the minerals "drop-out" of suspension, and remain on that surface.This reduces the heat transfer even more. The other important factor, is many different minerals promote electrolytic current with-in the cooling system.A battery, in simple terms, this affects many comp onents in
 the cooling system. Don't forget all the metals, copper,brass, tin, lead, steel, aluminum, cast-iron, etc.It's the same reason you clean you automatic coffee maker.Hope this helped, Ya'll have a nice day, Dave
-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: <dansgarage@xxxxxxxxxxxx> 

> Hi Dave...how are you doing these days??....all done with the Christmas shopping 
> of course!?...I have been folowing the thread regarding 'flushing' the cooling 
> system and while most comments about using Cascade to clean out the system 
> itself seem to agree that it works fine. I am wondering about adding the water 
> to the antifreeze when the time comes (after flushing out) to refill the cooling 
> system with some kind of an anti-freeze/water mixture. I was wondering is its 
> really a MUST to add 'distilled' water to the antifreeze instead of using water 
> right from the tap.......THE REASON I ASK THIS is that when I was living back in 
> the NY/NJ area the water we got out of the public drinking system was actually 
> really good! It wasn't HARD or SOFT water and , if I remember right, the PH was 
> just about perfect for when I was keeping a freahwater fish tank...I didn't have 
> to do anything at all to the water to change the PH! Now, having said that, here 
> in southern California the water is TERRIBLE!....extremely high mineral content 
> (and tasts terrible! thats way you always see photo's of Californians walking 
> around with plastic bottles of water, I guess, no one wants to drink what comes 
> out of the faucet unless they have to! So, anyway, when mixing WATER with 
> ANTIFREEZE does it matter much if I use TAP water or DISTILLED water??? Since 
> this was brought up, I just thught I'd ask what your experience's may or may 
> not, have been so far?!!! 
> Thanks bunches!!! 
> Dan Melnik 
> 
> ---- sosmi@xxxxxxxxxxx wrote: 
> 
> ============= 
> Clay, the Cascade flush works, and we've been doing it f or a long time, however 
> the softened water has salts, and other chemicals added to it, thats great for 
> washing your hair, and dishes, but its not good for cooling systems. Distilled 
> water should not have any minerals in it which makes it perfect for batteries, 
> and cooling systems.The cooling system already has enough problems, why 
> introduce more? Ya'll have a nice day , Dave. 
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: "Clay Smith" 
> 
> When I flushed the cooling system of 60 Custom I used a tablet of Cascade 
> dishwasher detergent. I probably should have used two tablets. No suds and 
> seemed to clean everything well. 
> Also per a tip from Skinned Knuckles magazine I used SOFT water not Distilled 
> to mix with the antifreeze. According to the magazine distilled water is just 
> fine for batteries ,but will promote corrosion in a cars cooling system . 
> Your results may vary 
> Clay Smith 
> 60 Custom 
> 67 Crown Coupe 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: William Miller 
> To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
> Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 12:29 AM 
> Subject: IML: Tide 
> 
> 
> Kenyon, 
> You have your soaps reversed. Dishwasher 
> soap makes almost no suds and is stronger than laundry soap. Suds are for the 
> lady of the house to see and think she is washing good. The new front load 
> washers use HE soap which makes almost no suds. 
> In case some one runs out of dishwasher soap and throws in some Tide instead 
> you will have the floors in half the house mopped before you are done. Stop it, 
> pour in some cooking oil and start it up. The oil will kill the suds and let you 
> get back to mopping. 
> Bill Miller 
> 68 Crown dry HT (Imperial content) 


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