IML: 413 engine of a 1960 Imperial
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IML: 413 engine of a 1960 Imperial



Yes great to be out from under the 'not getting to work on my Imperial rock' I was under for a few long years. Now I'm back and in full swing. You should see my trim, just came back from the stainless polisher last night, takes my breath away, it's better than factory now. I'll send you some pics. SOon I'll be starting the engine for the first time in about two years since the body has been done.

As for that bolt yes you are right I doubt that C. E. Briggs would have let those engine designers put a bolt hole right through. As you say world of trouble. It's been over 2 years since I had the engine apart and when I did I wasn't even thinking of such things, so thanks for the extra brains on the thing. Poking a wire down the hole and seeing how far it goes and what's down there will do the trick as well.

All very exciting to be back into it anyways, thanks for the welcome back,
Cheers,
Luke


On 19/06/2006, at 7:34 AM, Kenyon Wills wrote:

Hi Luke,

Welcome back to the IML from whatever rock it is that
you've been hiding under!  It's been too long.




The heads all interchange, so there "shouldn't" be a
difference between an AC and non-AC car's engine
heads.

Based on memory, these do not go anywhere.  The
threads on the stud should stop before you get close
to bottoming things out, thereby precluding the
possibility of bottoming out?  That's what I would
think without going and inspecting...

If you think about it, designing the head so that the
mounting bolt holes create a passageway into an intake
or exhaust runner would be a recipe for leaks and lots
of cursing, although I'm not presently looking at a
head and will await confirmation from someone that can
double check.



Your fellow 1960 LeBaron owner,

-Kenyon




--- Luke Nola <luke@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:


Hi all.  Eeeeek! Talking about 413's - I hate that
feeling when you
are torting up bolts and they go all floppy on you.
May just have
stripped the thread on the second to bottom intake
manifold bolt on
the 413. Does anyone know if the thread on these
goes through to the
inside of the heads? Or do the bolts bottom out? I'm
probably now
looking at ripping the head off and re-threading the
bugger but I'd
live to know if that muck is falling into the
tappets?

  I've added air to a non-air factory car here so
this could be part
of the problem, all the extra hardware bolted onto
the intake
manifold and heads that were not set up for it?
Someone out there
might have a head off or apart and be able to look
for me?

cheers,


Luke
1960 Le Baron
On 17/06/2006, at 4:18 PM, Dick Benjamin wrote:


Hello, Robert;

I don’t think there is a big difference in using

20W50, rather than

SAE30W,
especially in the colder months.  Considering your

climate, I think

I would
just switch to the 20W50 and use it without worry.

  It should provide

adequate lubrication for startup, the only better

thing to do would

be to
install a pre-lube system (which runs an auxiliary

oil pump to

circulate oil
before starting), but even that won't help the

cylinder wall wear

caused by
startup, because the cylinder walls are lubricated

by spray from the

rotating parts.  Also, during cold startup, you

are running a much

richer
mixture, so there is some inevitable dilution of

the oil with raw

gas -
that's another reason to make sure the engine is

thoroughly warmed

up each
time you start it.

Dick Benjamin

-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On

Behalf Of Rob van

der Es
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 12:28 AM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: IML: Two questions about the 413

engine of a 1960

Imperial

Hello Dick,

Thanks for your very clear answers! (as always a

joy to read!!)

I am glad my message survived a quick death from

your delete key LOL


Yes, I must admit I have had the bad habit in

making short test drives

last year (because the car was registrated at that

time, so I have

to made
illegal short runs to sort things out..) so it

might be wise to change

that oil even if it has been used for only 500

miles or so.


I am not planning to drive (or even start) the car

with

temperatures below
32F, so I think I will be safe with SAE30.
But ofcourse I can use 20W50 too, do you think it

has any benefits

to use
this grade?
I can imagine that a 20W50 is easier to crank

around in an cold engine

then a straight SAE30, so lubrication with a 20W50

will be better

at cold
starts then?? You see, I have always learned that

a cold start will

put
the most stress on an engine!
Anything you can do to make the lubrication during

cold starts the

best
will pay off in the end, so I have been told.

Thanks also for your suggestions with regard to

the pre-ignition

setting,
I have set it back to its former setting (16

degrees BTDC) and I am

very
happy with it! So at the moment I will leave it

there.


And yes, these cars are a delight to drive around

town ..

Not only for the headturning power, but also for

the overall feel of

quality. The 727 is the best automatic gearbox I

have ever

experienced,
even a new Mercedes doesn´t shifts that smooth!!
And throttle response is that good that you

sometimes think that

you are
driving a much lighter car!!

Thanks again,

Robert

Op Vr, 16 juni, 2006 3:20 am, schreef Dick

Benjamin:



I just returned from vacation, and found about

200 IML messages on my

e-mail, most of which died a quick death under my

"delete" key,

but this
one did catch my eye.

On the oil change question, the reason to change

oil is from

contamination caused by starting the engine many

times, especially

if it
is not run long enough to evaporate all the

moisture that

condenses into
the oil.  If the engine has always been

thoroughly warmed up by

driving it
10 miles or so, it
is safe to change it every 1500 to 2000 miles

even if this takes

more than
a year.  However, if it has been started and

stopped without a

thorough
warm up, I'd change it and the oil filter now,

and then avoid this

type of
 operation in the future.

As for the grade of oil, SAE30W was recommended

when the car was new,

unless the temperature was expected to be below

32F the next time

the car
was to be operated.  In your climate, if you feel

you might want

to use
the car when it is below freezing when you start

it, I think it

is  OK to
use 20W50 your car, in fact you can use that year

round.  I would

not use
the 10W40 or 10W30 that is becoming so common now

in that old an

engine.
Note that
SAE30W does not mean "poor quality" oil or "non

detergent" oil.  Many

older Diesel engine and high performance engine

manufacturers

recommend
using this oil, and premium grade oils in this

grade are usually

available
in heavy equipment supply houses.  Using a Diesel

rated

=== message truncated ===



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