As for that bolt yes you are right I doubt that C. E. Briggs would have let those engine designers put a bolt hole right through. As you say world of trouble. It's been over 2 years since I had the engine apart and when I did I wasn't even thinking of such things, so thanks for the extra brains on the thing. Poking a wire down the hole and seeing how far it goes and what's down there will do the trick as well.
All very exciting to be back into it anyways, thanks for the welcome back,
Cheers, Luke On 19/06/2006, at 7:34 AM, Kenyon Wills wrote:
Hi Luke, Welcome back to the IML from whatever rock it is that you've been hiding under! It's been too long. The heads all interchange, so there "shouldn't" be a difference between an AC and non-AC car's engine heads. Based on memory, these do not go anywhere. The threads on the stud should stop before you get close to bottoming things out, thereby precluding the possibility of bottoming out? That's what I would think without going and inspecting... If you think about it, designing the head so that the mounting bolt holes create a passageway into an intake or exhaust runner would be a recipe for leaks and lots of cursing, although I'm not presently looking at a head and will await confirmation from someone that can double check. Your fellow 1960 LeBaron owner, -Kenyon --- Luke Nola <luke@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:Hi all. Eeeeek! Talking about 413's - I hate that feeling when you are torting up bolts and they go all floppy on you. May just have stripped the thread on the second to bottom intake manifold bolt on the 413. Does anyone know if the thread on these goes through to the inside of the heads? Or do the bolts bottom out? I'm probably now looking at ripping the head off and re-threading the bugger but I'd live to know if that muck is falling into the tappets? I've added air to a non-air factory car here so this could be part of the problem, all the extra hardware bolted onto the intake manifold and heads that were not set up for it? Someone out there might have a head off or apart and be able to look for me? cheers, Luke 1960 Le Baron On 17/06/2006, at 4:18 PM, Dick Benjamin wrote:Hello, Robert; I don’t think there is a big difference in using20W50, rather thanSAE30W, especially in the colder months. Considering yourclimate, I thinkI would just switch to the 20W50 and use it without worry.It should provideadequate lubrication for startup, the only betterthing to do wouldbe to install a pre-lube system (which runs an auxiliaryoil pump tocirculate oil before starting), but even that won't help thecylinder wall wearcaused by startup, because the cylinder walls are lubricatedby spray from therotating parts. Also, during cold startup, youare running a muchricher mixture, so there is some inevitable dilution ofthe oil with rawgas - that's another reason to make sure the engine isthoroughly warmedup each time you start it. Dick Benjamin -----Original Message----- From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] OnBehalf Of Rob vander Es Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 12:28 AM To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: RE: IML: Two questions about the 413engine of a 1960Imperial Hello Dick, Thanks for your very clear answers! (as always ajoy to read!!)I am glad my message survived a quick death fromyour delete key LOLYes, I must admit I have had the bad habit inmaking short test driveslast year (because the car was registrated at thattime, so I haveto made illegal short runs to sort things out..) so itmight be wise to changethat oil even if it has been used for only 500miles or so.I am not planning to drive (or even start) the carwithtemperatures below 32F, so I think I will be safe with SAE30. But ofcourse I can use 20W50 too, do you think ithas any benefitsto use this grade? I can imagine that a 20W50 is easier to crankaround in an cold enginethen a straight SAE30, so lubrication with a 20W50will be betterat cold starts then?? You see, I have always learned thata cold start willput the most stress on an engine! Anything you can do to make the lubrication duringcold starts thebest will pay off in the end, so I have been told. Thanks also for your suggestions with regard tothe pre-ignitionsetting, I have set it back to its former setting (16degrees BTDC) and I amvery happy with it! So at the moment I will leave itthere.And yes, these cars are a delight to drive aroundtown ..Not only for the headturning power, but also forthe overall feel ofquality. The 727 is the best automatic gearbox Ihave everexperienced, even a new Mercedes doesn´t shifts that smooth!! And throttle response is that good that yousometimes think thatyou are driving a much lighter car!! Thanks again, Robert Op Vr, 16 juni, 2006 3:20 am, schreef DickBenjamin:I just returned from vacation, and found about200 IML messages on mye-mail, most of which died a quick death under my"delete" key,but this one did catch my eye. On the oil change question, the reason to changeoil is fromcontamination caused by starting the engine manytimes, especiallyif it is not run long enough to evaporate all themoisture thatcondenses into the oil. If the engine has always beenthoroughly warmed up bydriving it 10 miles or so, it is safe to change it every 1500 to 2000 mileseven if this takesmore than a year. However, if it has been started andstopped without athorough warm up, I'd change it and the oil filter now,and then avoid thistype of operation in the future. As for the grade of oil, SAE30W was recommendedwhen the car was new,unless the temperature was expected to be below32F the next timethe car was to be operated. In your climate, if you feelyou might wantto use the car when it is below freezing when you startit, I think itis OK to use 20W50 your car, in fact you can use that yearround. I wouldnot use the 10W40 or 10W30 that is becoming so common nowin that old anengine. Note that SAE30W does not mean "poor quality" oil or "nondetergent" oil. Manyolder Diesel engine and high performance enginemanufacturersrecommend using this oil, and premium grade oils in thisgrade are usuallyavailable in heavy equipment supply houses. Using a Dieselrated=== message truncated === ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm
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