Re: IML: Thickness of bondo - counterpoint.

[Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>]

"A. Foster" <monkeypuzzle1@xxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi all;
Just to clarify here, when we are referring to Bondo are we talking about
the cheap polyester filler that they sell at every hardware store or are we
talking about fiberglass filler? If we are talking about the polyester stuff
then anything thicker then 1/4 inch is not recommended, and even that maybe
too much.

---

Everything that you wrote is correct. No arguement.

Here is my planned method and reasoning:


They make a filler that has aluminum particulate in it that is especially formulated for applying to bare metal. 

I will take a grinder and score the metal surface that it will be applied to aggressively to give it something to bite/hold onto.  The metal will then get coated with Rust Seal, relative of rust-mort.  I am satisfied that it seals after leaving a raw fender covered in the stuff out in the elements for months with no effect.  Once the metal is sealed, I will slather on the filler and shape it to fit what I need, in a sculpting fashion.

The rest of the roof will then be sanded and primered.  On the 1955 the roof is nicely seperated from the rest of the body by chrome, so I'm only working the one area - the rest of the car is in super shape.

Once the roof is primered, I'll get the folks that painted the car to respray it and it should match, as there is a quart of left-over material in the trunk of the car from the recent paint job.

So:  Doing a profit-to-grief analysys, I conclude that if the body filler fails, that I can remove the trim in about 15 minutes, use the 10,000 RPM grinder with a wire rope wheel, and get back to precisely where I am now in about 15 minutes or less. 

I don't weld, and don't fancy the expense and work to get this thing welded in.  I'm guessing that it could cost upwards of $500 to get welded after parts and labor are figured vs the $40 for the body filler approach. 

Even if the quickie fix lasts 10 years, that's not such a bad deal in my book, and I have the skills to repair it.  Yahoo email blocks me from pasting right now, but take a look at Evercoat Metal 2 Metal, which is "the closest thing to lead" and is moisture proof and designed for building up areas such as the one that I'm considering.  I am likely beyond what they'll put on the label as acceptable, but after doing the free-form body sculpture required on the 1960 rear window seam that I did that was up to an inch deep, I'm feeling confident in the product.  Enough to try, anyway, and not cry if it fails....  I can always weld later if needed.


Kenyon