RE: IML: IML DIGEST
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RE: IML: IML DIGEST
- From: "Don Zimmermann" <don@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 16:29:58 -0700
Mikey is absolutely right. Mixing different types of blinker fluid can cause
major problems. I mixed them in my '65 and it caused the bulbs to blink on
when they should have been blinking off causing it to appear as if I was
turning right when I was signaling to turn left. I used good old American
ingenuity and solved this problem by putting the left light bulbs into the
right sockets and visa versa. This is easier then changing the wiring from
left to right.
Don Z
'65 Crown Convert
-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 11:04 AM
Subject: IML DIGEST
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From: "mike and linda sutton" <mikanlin62@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION
Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 12:38:48 -0700
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Frank Mitchell has some of the ultra rare BUDD Dot 10 USDA approved blinker
fluid available on his ebay store but it runs about 8.99 per drop, with the
average blinker reservoir holding 10 to 15 drops so it can be expensive.
Some people have had luck with the new " improved " UCLA Dash-Dot approved
synthetic and semi synthetic fluids that are far more reasonably priced at
45.00 per pint but are sold in 5 gallon pails only. One caution though,
mixing blinker fluids can result in a color shift in the blinkers if the old
fluid is not properly flushed. NASA has a correct blinker fluid flush but I
dont know the current price.
Mikey
62 Crown Coupe
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From: "Ken & Tracie" <ktjosephson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: IML: Javier's fuel sender (68)
Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 12:53:51 -0700
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I agree, Year One, though pricey, offers great customer service. I've had
nothing but excellent transactions with them. Thanks to Dick Benjamin for
pointing me their way. I was able to purchase reproduction plug wire holders
for my '68 Crown. These repops are virtually identical to the originals.
K.
Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 14:03:51 -0500
From: "Michael O. Mann" <mann340s@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: IML: Javier's fuel sender (68)
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Javier,
Or anybody else that might be interested.
I was looking at an old Year One catalog this afternoon. They do show a
fuel sender assembly for "68-72 full-size except station wagons." In the
2000 catalog, it is $105. Includes gasket, appears to include float, does
not include "sock."
They also state that they can rebuild yours.
Year One is in Atlanta, great service, pricey. 1-800-YEARONE, or on the web
Michael
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From: "Jon Ricketson" <jcricketson@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: IML: I "Fixed" the Fan but BROKE the Switch!
Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 17:36:30 -0400
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
So, today I worked on my '66 Crown Coupe and, while trying to figure out why
my heater/AC fan would not run, I figured out that the switch with the 5
buttons in it was faulty. This part is pretty complex - with several vacuum
hoses plugged into it, and 4 or 5 electrical wires attached to it. The push
buttons were engaging the vacuum switches correctly and were turning the AC
Compresser Clutch on and off correctly, but were NOT sending any power to
the fan via the fan speed switch. The fan speed switch is working fine so I
know the problem is in the 5 button switch. I confirmed this by doing some
continuity testing with an ohm meter. Spraying lots of electrical cleaner
into the small openings in the switch provided inconsistent results.
Anyway, connecting one of the wires to the hot lead on the switch resulted
in the fan running always - even when the OFF button is pushed. And the fan
speed switch works. For now, I can live with this. At least I now get heat
and AC!!
That's the good news.
The VERY BAD NEWS is that I broke 3 of the vacuum hose connectors off of the
5 button switch housing. These cannot be glued back on - they are so small
and brittle. So now I am searching for a new 5 button switch with good
vacuum hose connectors. I don't find this part on my parts list and the
only numbers I could read - stamped with red ink on the switch - are
2DB--84. I could not read the two -- numbers/letters.
Can anyone help me out with the part number or, even better, where I can get
a new/used one?
Please!!
Thanks,
Jon
'66 Crown Coupe
_________________________________________________________________
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From: "Eric" <gearhead@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: IML: Portland, Oregon, Wedding Car Request
Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 15:15:19 -0700
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To the Imperial owners in the Portland, Oregon, area, a request on
craigslist has been posted today for the use of a classic car to be used for
a post wedding reception tour. The ad reads:
*************************************
Reply to: anon-98328865@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Date: 2005-09-18, 10:11AM PDT
I am looking for someone with a Classic Car who might be interested in a
small driving "job" - a "getaway car" you might say .
We will be getting married on September 25th at a Hotel in downtown
Portland. We are looking for someone with a classic car like a '30s '40s
'50s or even early '60s Packard or Chrysler or ... ?, to pick us up from the
hotel at 9:30 pm after the reception, take a short drive either downtown or
across one of the bridges and back to the hotel where we will be staying or
to a restaurant nearby. Just a sort of "theatrical" exit and a chance to
catch our breath from the day's activities. Maybe 20 minutes total?
Perhaps you might be interested or might know of someone who would be
interested.
We would gladly pay for the time and effort - it just does not seem to be a
service that is readily available.
Any help would be appreciated.
***************************************
I have no relation to the ad or people that posted it other than just coming
across it in the Chrysler cars for sale section. The webpage address for
this ad is http://portland.craigslist.org/car/98328865.html
As long as it isn't a modern day Bonnie & Clyde kind of affair, it might be
a nice way to deliver the said parties into wedded bliss via Imperial.
Eric
Portland, Oregon
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Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 20:46:12 -0400
From: RandalPark@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: I "Fixed" the Fan but BROKE the Switch!
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Don't do anymore to your switch, and DO NOT throw it away yet. It may be
rebuildable!
You are going to hate me for this, but that switch is worth more than its
weight in gold. You might get lucky and find one on Ebay, but I believe that
everyone else is looking for that, too.
Part of the reason that the fan wouldn't come on is because the main contact
is mounted in plastic. Eventually the contact pulls away from it's mating
contact due to heat, and changes in the plastic due to stress, and then it
fails to connect when the buttons are pushed. I suspect that you have
created some kind of short in the switch, causing the fan to be on all the
time. As you say, this is okay due to your fan speed control being
operational.
The most difficult part of the whole thing is the vacuum portion, but now
that has been damaged. Believe it or not, YOU STILL MAY be able to send that
switch out to be rebuilt. J.C. Auto does them. Check their web site. If you
try to do more with it, you may cause it to become non-rebuildable.
Paul W.
In an email dated 18/9/2005 10:36:30 pm GMT Daylight time, "Jon Ricketson"
<jcricketson@xxxxxxxxxxx> writes:
>So, today I worked on my '66 Crown Coupe and, while trying to figure out
why
>my heater/AC fan would not run, I figured out that the switch with the 5
>buttons in it was faulty. ?This part is pretty complex - with several
vacuum
>hoses plugged into it, and 4 or 5 electrical wires attached to it. ?The
push
>buttons were engaging the vacuum switches correctly and were turning the AC
>Compresser Clutch on and off correctly, but were NOT sending any power to
>the fan via the fan speed switch. ?The fan speed switch is working fine so
I
>know the problem is in the 5 button switch. ?I confirmed this by doing some
>continuity testing with an ohm meter. ?Spraying lots of electrical cleaner
>into the small openings in the switch provided inconsistent results. ?
>Anyway, connecting one of the wires to the hot lead on the switch resulted
>in the fan running always - even when the OFF button is pushed. ?And the
fan
>speed switch works. ?For now, I can live with this. ?At least I now get
heat
>and AC!!
>
>That's the good news.
>
>The VERY BAD NEWS is that I broke 3 of the vacuum hose connectors off of
the
>5 button switch housing. ?These cannot be glued back on - they are so small
>and brittle. ?So now I am searching for a new 5 button switch with good
>vacuum hose connectors. ?I don't find this part on my parts list and the
>only numbers I could read - stamped with red ink on the switch - are
>2DB--84. ?I could not read the two -- numbers/letters.
>
>Can anyone help me out with the part number or, even better, where I can
get
>a new/used one?
>
>Please!!
>
>Thanks,
>Jon
>'66 Crown Coupe
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee®
>Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
>
>
>
>----------------- ?http://www.imperialclub.com ?-----------------
>This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please
>reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be
>shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the
>Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm
>
>
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Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 19:25:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: IML: 1973 brakes - Metering block Part II - need help or a spare
part (help!!)
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Been very distracted lately, but got back on the wagon
today and did more work. Very refreshing.
The other night I had to go out and deal with a
particularly naughty tenant that is working their way
up to eviction, and I took the 64 out and drove it
over to the meeting. It put me in a really good mood
when I got there, and an even better one on the way
back. What a nice car!
========================
Today I made the third attempt at installing a
headlight door motor on the 1970. The first two tries
yeilded 1972/73 motors from vendors. They aren't the
same despite what common sense would tell you. This
one was the ticket, and the 9-year old magician's
assistant said that the car kept "looking" at him and
seemed to be growling "get off my property". That's
his favorite car, so I guess that they have a deeper
relationship than I do. Car never said a word to me
yet outside of morse code with the sigal sentry on a
low tank.
========================
I also pulled out the 1973.
Some ways back I described the following:
New brake system. Replaced everything that wears.
All cylinders at wheels and firewall, calipers, pads,
shoes, soft lines. Booster done 3 years ago and not
suspect.
Reassembled correctly as far as I can tell (I've done
2 other similar cars successfully).
Brakes do not work properly.
When I hit the brakes, the response is sluggish and
takes double the effort and double the distance to
stop, unable to even approach locking the brakes.
Felt the same way when the booster went out 2 years
ago. It's new and the pedal gets even harder if the
engine is shut off and vacuum is absent, so the
booster IS working.
Feels almost like only the rears are doing the work.
I was told that perhaps it is the metering block that
is located on the framerail near the steering box.
Was told to open both the front and rear circuits and
punch/hold the pedal down, close both.
I did so twice and the car is still not right. There
is the faintest hint of its old self until 40% of the
pedal stroke on the first push, and it gets hard
again.
I am uncertain what to do next.
I may have fried the metering block during bleeding?
The brakes were just fine before, and I just wanted to
be safe, so I replaced everything. There is some sort
of a spingey thingey that works as a proportioning
valve, according to the FSM.
The FSM also says that a firm application of the
brakes will reset a metering valve that was latched
open, closing off a circuit.
http://imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/293/page13.htm
http://imperialclub.com/Yr/1973/FSM/Chassis/html/05-021.htm
The valve, as far as I can tell, is supposed to be in
the IN position, closest to the firewall. Mine is in
the OUT position, closest to the radiator. I can
manually push it in, but applying pressure to the
brakes forces it out. The FSM shows a tool holding
the valve pin OUT during bleeding, but nothing is
said about pushing it back in.
I conclude that I have a failed valve.
Anyone got a 72/73 parts-car? I'd be willing to trade
a nice set of wheel-covers or something? It would
probably take 15 minutes or less to remove and is the
size of your fist. follow the lines out of the MC
down and there you'll see a little cast cylinder with
lots of lines going in/out.
Kenyon Wills
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From: mopar48291@xxxxxxx
Subject: IML: fuel pump rebuild kit
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 04:45:13 +0000
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_28258_1127105113_0
Content-Type: text/plain
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
I've gotten a number of rebuikl kits from Antique Auto Parts Cellar. You can
find them here:
http://www.then-now.com/The_Cellar/cellar.htm
Cheers,
Roger
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_28258_1127105113_0
Content-Type: text/html
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
<html>
<!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
<head></head>
<body>
<!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
<DIV>I've gotten a number of rebuikl kits from Antique Auto Parts Cellar.
You can find them here:</DIV>
<DIV><A
href="http://www.then-now.com/The_Cellar/cellar.htm";>http://www.then-now.com
/The_Cellar/cellar.htm</A></DIV>
<DIV>Cheers,</DIV>
<DIV>Roger</DIV>
<!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
</body>
</html>
--NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_28258_1127105113_0--
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Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2005 22:34:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: ken cleversy <cleversy@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: IML: Who's Imperial?
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I am wondering if this belongs to someone on the list?
http://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/6/5/80168265.htm
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From: "Eric" <gearhead@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: IML: Please Welcome New Member, Mark Martin
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 06:38:40 -0700
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
New Subscriber(s): Mark Martin
Email Address is: 1966.newport@xxxxxxxxxxx
Member Location: Salem, Oregon
Car(s) owned: Don't own an Imperial. Have a 1966 Chrysler Newport 2-door
hardtop Maroon w/ black top
Self-Introduction: Just purchased my 5th mopar. I had a 66 Baracuda, a 66
Valiant, 78 Dodge Aspen, and a 89 Plymouth Sundance. Just looking for people
with a similar interest and maybe gleen some knowledge along the way.
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From: <mopar413@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 11:02:14 -0400
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
What is a blinker fluid. Are you talking about brake fluid.??>
> From: "mike and linda sutton" <mikanlin62@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: 2005/09/18 Sun PM 03:38:48 EDT
> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION
>
> Frank Mitchell has some of the ultra rare BUDD Dot 10 USDA approved
blinker
> fluid available on his ebay store but it runs about 8.99 per drop, with
the
> average blinker reservoir holding 10 to 15 drops so it can be expensive.
> Some people have had luck with the new " improved " UCLA Dash-Dot approved
> synthetic and semi synthetic fluids that are far more reasonably priced at
> 45.00 per pint but are sold in 5 gallon pails only. One caution though,
> mixing blinker fluids can result in a color shift in the blinkers if the
old
> fluid is not properly flushed. NASA has a correct blinker fluid flush but
I
> dont know the current price.
>
> Mikey
> 62 Crown Coupe
>
>
> ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com -----------------
> This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please
> reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be
> shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the
> Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm
>
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From: "Dick Benjamin" <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 08:11:32 -0700
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I have been concerned about the quantity of fluid in my blinker for some
time, and after reading this message, I opened the little canister (you
know, the one with two prongs that makes the clicking sound) and found it
was bone dry in there!
I'm so glad you pointed out this common problem with older cars and will
take steps to correct this as soon as I can identify a reasonably priced
substitute.
I did check some spare blinkers I had on my shelf, and I find that the odor
of the fluid is very like that of sheep dip.
As a neighboring rancher has a flock of said ovines (which, in an odd
coincidence, also have two prongs), I will see if I can obtain a supply of
substitute blinker fluid from him.
I will test it on one of my cars, and if it performs acceptably, I will
offer it to members of the IML at my cost.
Dick Benjamin
-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of mike and linda
sutton
Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2005 11:39 AM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION
Frank Mitchell has some of the ultra rare BUDD Dot 10 USDA approved blinker
fluid available on his ebay store but it runs about 8.99 per drop, with the
average blinker reservoir holding 10 to 15 drops so it can be expensive.
Some people have had luck with the new " improved " UCLA Dash-Dot approved
synthetic and semi synthetic fluids that are far more reasonably priced at
45.00 per pint but are sold in 5 gallon pails only. One caution though,
mixing blinker fluids can result in a color shift in the blinkers if the old
fluid is not properly flushed. NASA has a correct blinker fluid flush but I
dont know the current price.
Mikey
62 Crown Coupe
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From: <mopar413@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: IML: Please Welcome New Member, Mark Martin
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 11:13:26 -0400
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I have two 66 cars. One is a New Yorker and other is a New Port. Looking
for a grill for the New Yorker.>
> From: "Eric" <gearhead@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Date: 2005/09/19 Mon AM 09:38:40 EDT
> To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: IML: Please Welcome New Member, Mark Martin
>
> New Subscriber(s): Mark Martin
> Email Address is: 1966.newport@xxxxxxxxxxx
> Member Location: Salem, Oregon
>
> Car(s) owned: Don't own an Imperial. Have a 1966 Chrysler Newport 2-door
> hardtop Maroon w/ black top
>
> Self-Introduction: Just purchased my 5th mopar. I had a 66 Baracuda, a 66
> Valiant, 78 Dodge Aspen, and a 89 Plymouth Sundance. Just looking for
people
> with a similar interest and maybe gleen some knowledge along the way.
>
>
>
> ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com -----------------
> This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please
> reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be
> shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the
> Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm
>
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From: "Hugh & Therese" <hugtrees@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 10:47:46 -0500
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Oh for heaven's sake! You guys are letting your snobbery make your lives
extremely difficult. Everybody knows the blinker fluid available from
Wal-Mart is just fine. Just because it only costs 59 cents for three quarts
is no reason to impugn its efficacy. In passing another chain was briefly
giving it away for free as part of their tire air quality check service. As
most cognizant automobile aficionados are aware, it really is important to
winterize the air in your tires for optimal performance.
Hugh
From: "Dick Benjamin" <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>
>I have been concerned about the quantity of fluid in my blinker for some
> time, and after reading this message, I opened the little canister (you
> know, the one with two prongs that makes the clicking sound) and found it
> was bone dry in there!
> I will test it on one of my cars, and if it performs acceptably, I will
> offer it to members of the IML at my cost.
> -----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of mike and linda
> sutton
>
> Frank Mitchell has some of the ultra rare BUDD Dot 10 USDA approved
> blinker
> fluid available on his ebay store but it runs about 8.99 per drop, with
> the
> average blinker reservoir holding 10 to 15 drops so it can be expensive.
> Some people have had luck with the new " improved " UCLA Dash-Dot approved
> synthetic and semi synthetic fluids that are far more reasonably priced at
> 45.00 per pint but are sold in 5 gallon pails only. One caution though,
> mixing blinker fluids can result in a color shift in the blinkers if the
> old
>
> fluid is not properly flushed. NASA has a correct blinker fluid flush but
> I
>
> dont know the current price.
>
> Mikey
> 62 Crown Coupe
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Subject: RE: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 12:18:44 -0400
From: "Javier, Bay Adventures" <javier@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Ok then... For those of us who live in the Deep South... What exactly
is "Blinker Fluid" ? ? ?
Javier
Proud Owner of 1968 IMP's of Omaha Convertible
Needs AM/FM radio
Former owner of
66 IMP's of Omaha Convertible
65 300 Convertible
-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Hugh & Therese
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 10:48 AM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION
Oh for heaven's sake! You guys are letting your snobbery make your
lives=20
extremely difficult. Everybody knows the blinker fluid available from=20
Wal-Mart is just fine. Just because it only costs 59 cents for three
quarts=20
is no reason to impugn its efficacy. In passing another chain was
briefly=20
giving it away for free as part of their tire air quality check service.
As=20
most cognizant automobile aficionados are aware, it really is important
to=20
winterize the air in your tires for optimal performance.
Hugh
From: "Dick Benjamin" <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>
>I have been concerned about the quantity of fluid in my blinker for
some
> time, and after reading this message, I opened the little canister
(you
> know, the one with two prongs that makes the clicking sound) and found
it
> was bone dry in there!
> I will test it on one of my cars, and if it performs acceptably, I
will
> offer it to members of the IML at my cost.
> -----Original Message-----
On Behalf Of mike and linda
> sutton
>
> Frank Mitchell has some of the ultra rare BUDD Dot 10 USDA approved=20
> blinker
> fluid available on his ebay store but it runs about 8.99 per drop,
with=20
> the
> average blinker reservoir holding 10 to 15 drops so it can be
expensive.
> Some people have had luck with the new " improved " UCLA Dash-Dot
approved
> synthetic and semi synthetic fluids that are far more reasonably
priced at
> 45.00 per pint but are sold in 5 gallon pails only. One caution
though,
> mixing blinker fluids can result in a color shift in the blinkers if
the=20
> old
>
> fluid is not properly flushed. NASA has a correct blinker fluid flush
but=20
> I
>
> dont know the current price.
>
> Mikey
> 62 Crown Coupe
----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com -----------------
This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please=20
reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be=20
shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the
Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm
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From: "WCR" <1roscoe@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION
Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 09:30:41 -0700
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
No, they're just bored.
-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
mopar413@xxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 8:02 AM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: IML: blinker fluid - CAUTION
What is a blinker fluid. Are you talking about brake fluid.??>
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Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 13:41:16 -0400
From: "Pete Engel" <peter.engel@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: IML: engine problems
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Jay,
Others have made some very good suggestions about the possible source of
your engine troubles. As someone said, the actual point gap is =
irrelevant
so long as dwell is correct. But the gap/dwell mismatch may indicate =
worn
distributor parts. I myself have experienced a stuck centrifugal =
advance
and it totally took the power away from a brand C engine.
One thing to consider is the camshaft. Do you know exactly what grind =
was
installed? This can be a big problem if a modern grind "emission" cam =
is
installed since overlap is usually way too much. A friend experience
"gutless wonder" performance from a purchased long block years ago and =
went
nuts trying to determine the cause. The problem turned out to be the =
cam
grind.
HTH,
Pete in PA
From: "JAY D'ANGELO" <cadij@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: IML: Engine problems
Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2005 05:46:04 +0000
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Just put a brand new long block 413 in my 64 Imp Convt., but it doesn't =
idle
properly and is very sluggish off the line. We did a new PS unit, water =
pump, radiator, master brake cylinder, coil, points, condenser, cap, =
wires,=20
plugs and an Edelbrock 1406.
We set the plug gap at 35, points at 16 and the dwell dropped to 21. I=20
hooked up the vacuum advance hose to the driver side port on the carb =
and=20
wired the electric choke thru the whatumacacallit on the firewall.
we set the timing to 10 and got it to idle smooth, then it would get =
rough=20
in gear, like it had a vacuum leak. Then we were able to get it falrly=20
smooth by readjusting the distributor and it roared in park. In gear, =
it's=20
smooth but slow off the line and pings.
My mechanic is tearing his hair out and I'm not too happy, either.
Any suggestions on this one?
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Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 10:55:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: Paul Volkmann <blackplumcoupe@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: IML: blinker fluid & muffler bearings
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
My blinker fluid is fine but my muffler bearings are
making an awful grinding noise
______________________________________________________
Yahoo! for Good
Donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
http://store.yahoo.com/redcross-donate3/
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Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 13:00:39 -0500
From: Brad Hogg <LuxoLiner@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: IML: blinker fluid & muffler bearings
Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Don't let those go! I once had a 73 Convoy with that problem and I ignored
it. Eventually the gudgin pin fell out of the bindle rotor and mucked up
the sludge pump! Very nasty repair!
----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Volkmann <blackplumcoupe@xxxxxxxxx>
Date: Monday, September 19, 2005 12:55 pm
Subject: IML: blinker fluid & muffler bearings
> My blinker fluid is fine but my muffler bearings are
> making an awful grinding noise
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