Re: IML: 69 Imp Dead Electrical

["jsadowski" <jsadowski@xxxxxxx>]

I think I found the problems. First, I wiggled the bulkhead connector plugs 
& reconnected the battery. All the lights & accessories now work. However, 
the engine still wouldn't crank. I noticed while touching the fusible link 
wire that I could hear a clicking sound like a relay. One end of that wire 
was hanging by a thread & fell off. The wire didn't appear melted, just some 
green corrosion at the terminal. I ran a jumper from the battery to the 
starter relay, but the engine still wouldn't crank. I connected a remote 
starter switch to the relay & the engine started first try.
   I will remove all of the bulkhead connectors & clean them. Not sure 
where to get another fusible link, so may try putting a new terminal on the 
end & hope it is still good. I may also need to replace the starter relay.
John
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <RandalPark@xxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 5:29 PM
Subject: Re: IML: 69 Imp Dead Electrical


> Pegging all the way on the charge side usually means that the battery is 
> taking a full charge, or that the regulator points are stuck.
>
> I have never had a major short circuit in a car, so I don't know what it 
> would look like. I have had battery's short out, as I explained here 
> earlier. That can cause all kinds of odd problems, including the ones that 
> you describe. A short circuit in an accessory can cause the ammeter needle 
> to peg, but usually that would not last very long, or result in the car 
> stalling. The accessory would normally blow a fuse, or burn up first. If 
> the battery terminal arc's when it is connected, and everything is suppose 
> to be turned off, that is an indication of an accessory problem, or 
> possibly some short circuit, and should be tracked down immediately. This 
> is also dangerous as explosive gases present around the battery, and this 
> spark can cause it to blow up.
>
> I have had open connections that lead to componet failure. A short circuit 
> is going to make something happen fairly quick. If it is in the ignition, 
> it will usually cause the balast resistor to burn out. If it is in the 
> charging system, it will usually blow the battery. What I thought I read 
> this morning in the post was that the car was running, and had been idling 
> in the heat. I understood that the A/C was turned on, resulting in the 
> ammeter showing a discharge, and eventually the car stalled. All of this 
> leads me right to a weak charging system.
>
> What to do about that and how to check it has already been posted at least 
> once here today, so I won't repost it here again.
>
> Paul W.
>
> In an email dated 22/8/2005 11:30:58 pm GMT Daylight time, 
> joestill1@xxxxxxxxxxx (Joe) writes:
>
> > Would an ammeter pegging all the way to the "charge" side be the same sort 
> > of indicator? That is, a short somewhere?
> >
> > --
> > Joe
> > Allen, Texas
> > '61 4D Crown Southampton
> > http://www.imperialclub.com/Yr/1961/JoeStill/index.htm
> >
> >
> > -------------- Original message -------------- 
> >
> > The amp meter going to full discharge is a good indication of a short. I 
> > would do a careful study of the wiring harness's to look for any damaged 
> > wires. The other area would be, as mentioned before, the voltage regulator 
> > & or alternator. Also the bulkhead connector is another good place to 
> > look. Your post sounded as though you were a bit P/O. The heat and 
> > frustration all rolled in one. Been there done that. Let the weather, the 
> > car, & you cool off a bit and you will find the trouble. Just take it one 
> > step at a time. Thats all part of the hobby. Good luck & keep us posted on 
> > your progress..
> >
> > George
>
>
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