Re: IML: 69 Imp Dead Electrical

[RandalPark@xxxxxxx]

When the alternator fails, the car will generally run until the battery is too dead to keep it going. Based on what was posted, it sounded like this could have happened. This can cause the ammeter to show full discharge at a stop. It can also make the car die after switching on a major accessory.

Lately, I have also experienced total battery failure. A short had developed within the battery. Under this scenario, the car would run with a jump start, but very badly. The accessories were "hey-wire", and it seemed like everything had gone wrong at the same time (lights, radio, windows). I learned that the symptoms of this are especially peculiar on cars with computerized controls and digital readouts.

If you have test equipment, you should check your battery, alternator, and regulator. If you don't have test equipment, replacing all three is not a bad idea. I really hate to advise people to "throw parts at the car" when they have trouble, but these three items can be on the verge of failure for some time. To maintain reliability, they should be replaced if they are very old. If it doesn't fix the problem, at least you know they are not the cause. I think that there is a good chance that the alternator or the battery, or both are the trouble.

Also, verify that the connections to your regulator are clean. A bad connection here can lead to nothing from the alternator, and, eventually, a totally dead battery.

Paul W.

In an email dated 22/8/2005 6:33:41 am GMT Daylight time, "jsadowski" <jsadowski@xxxxxxx> writes:

>Michael, I tried running a jumper from the battery to the starter relay 
>because I thought the fusible link had burnt. That did nothing, so I have 
>pretty much ruled that out. The engine will crank with a remote switch 
>attached to the starter relay, but the engine won't start & EVERYTHING 
>electrical is dead.
> ? ? ? The bulkhead disconnect just came to mind. As I now recall, this was 
>a problem even when these cars were new. I will check that out next.
>John
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "Michael O. Mann" <mann340s@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2005 8:49 PM
>Subject: RE: IML: 69 Imp Dead Electrical
>
>
>> John,
>>
>> Where are you in diagnosis? ?What has been replaced? ?What have you ruled
>> out? ?Closest experience for me is my 72 New Yorker. ?It did the same 
>> thing
>> once. ?Voltage regulator and alternator both were fried. ?Whatever short
>> caused it killed the battery. ?No idea why. ?I replaced all three parts at
>> the same time, and all was well.
>>
>> If you still have the older original type mechanical regulator, you might
>> want to replace it with an electronic version. ?Have the alternator tested
>> OFF the car. ?Don't replace either part until you know that BOTH are good.
>>
>> My New Yorker charged poorly at low RPM until I finally replaced the
>> alternator with a good quality, high output unit.
>>
>> If you put in a new mechanical VR, polarize it. ?Instructions will tell 
>> you
>> how. ?If you use an electronic VR, be CERTAIN that you provide good 
>> ground.
>>
>> Another possibility is a failed ammeter, or a loose wire at the ammeter, 
>> or
>> at the bulkhead disconnect. ?That is just a matter of following wires and
>> ensuring tight connections.
>>
>> DO NOT work on the system without disconnecting the battery. ?Aside from 
>> the
>> danger, you will almost certainly damage the VR, or alternator, or both.
>>
>> Maybe consider waiting until the temp is down to a more reasonable level.
>> Being hot makes everything worse.
>>
>> Good luck.
>>
>>
>> Michael
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
>
>
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