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My Father loves to tell
the story of when he was a lad, in the last century. He had an old straight
eight Buick that had a rod knock. There was a fellow that had a device that
attached to the journal, while the crank was still IN the engine, and the engine
was still IN the car! It seems to me, listening to my Dad, that it was a
combination lathe/cutter/grinder. He said that they used the starter to rotate
the crank, and the device remained in position. Sounds fantastic to me, but
then, I was taught to tear down ALL parts of a knocking engine, mic everything,
grind, resize, rebuild rods, etc.
David C. Wilker Jr.
United States Air Force, Retired
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2005 9:25
AM
Subject: RE: IML: 413 rod knock etc
hello kenyon
I thought you might want to hear this.
on a small block engine I had owned the wet oil line going to the guage
had broken and caused the engine to run out of oil, and caused the number 3
rod to spin a bearing.
I repaired the engine while it was still in the car, wasn't to much
trouble.
I went to the autoparts store and bought 3 different sets of bearings to
help save myself extra trips back and forth, I bought standard , .010 , .020
bearings and several plastigauge . my uncle polished the main and rod journels
for me as his hands would fit up inside the block better. after we used the
plasticgauge to we used both the standard and the .010 bearings we also
replaced the oil pump and installed new oil line to the oil pressure guage.
the engine ran for years after that.
by the way , you will need a good pair of goggles to keep trash out of
you'r eyes, the job would have went much better if i had used them at
first.
Kenyon Wills <imperialist1960@xxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
---
Brooks Harkey wrote:
> Kenyon,
>
> If you're going to go the route you're planning to
> go,
you've GOT to change
> those 2 rods.
OK. Will do that. They
are both really messy.
I am planning to do the other rod
bolts/bearings at
the same time. Steve suggested looking at the
cam
bearings, but unless the others are a problem will
likely leave
that alone and hope for the best.
Will look at the main bearings but
not planning on
doing them unless there is obvious reason. I
"believe"
that the car was operated without load on
the failed parts and that there
isn't metal shavings
contaminating the entire system, but will look
anyway.
Sump was very clean and the bearings appear to have
been
smeared around on the crank but are still whole
and not fragmented. I
think ! I may have gotten off
light, but will wait to see.
I will
use the advice given gratefully. The men's
belt as a sandpaper/emerycloth
pull tool, replacing
the conrods, and so forth are all super ideas.
I'll take photos and document it all and put it up
later for
everyone to see. Can't gaurantee that I'll
have a camera in the car if it
breaks down on me
later, but if I do it right that hopefully won't
be
part of the story.
-Kenyon
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