I don't see how the wires can be connected to the spark plugs if the bake-a-lite towers aren't used. Paul W. In an email dated 2/6/2005 2:11:48 pm GMT Daylight time, "Jan Harmonson" <jharmonson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> writes: >Hi > >I just installed some Taylor wires on my 1955 sedan, together with plugs, >cap and rotor. These are silicon wires that come with the insulater on them. >It is not factory but works well. I had to cut and do the distributor ends >but it was no big deal. I bought them on ebay for about $40.00 > >Jan in Ojai CA >1955 sedan >----- Original Message ----- >From: <RandalPark@xxxxxxx> >To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> >Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 9:03 AM >Subject: IML: RE:'56 Ignition Wires > > >> That brings up an interesting point. >> >> Since purchasing my '56 Imperial in 1971, I have had to make my own >ignition wires each time I have done a tune up (at least 10-15 times over >the years). That is because the spark plug "tower" connectors have to be >used over and over again, and are essential to the proper installation of >the wires. This is not difficult, but it is time consuming. >> >> Does Andy Bernbaum sell a pre-cut, preassembled set for '56?? >> >> Paul W. >> >> In an email dated 2/6/2005 12:02:57 pm GMT Daylight time, >JCantor791@xxxxxxx writes: >> >> >Dick, >> > >> >I understand the circuit NOW and was headed on the right track yesterday >when >> >sitting at my computer typing in that description but I didn't understand >it >> >last week when I was testing it. If I had, I never would have bothered >> >looking at it as the car isn't having any of the performance problems you >describe. >> > I had simply been looking at the resister since the coil is definitely >on >> >its way out with low resistance on the secondary and signs of some oil >leakage. >> > >> >BTW, on a related note, I just wanted to put in a moderately good word >for >> >Mr. Bernbaum. While they're customer service may be a bit gruff, I was >> >extremely impressed with their speed and pricing. The tune-up kit, coil, >and wires >> >I finished ordering last Thursday at 5pm were on my door step by the same >time >> >Friday. And I paid less for all of that than just wires and a coil would >> >have cost me elsewhere. >> > >> >Jeff >> >'56 Sedan >> >Trenton, NJ >> > >> > >> >From: "Dick Benjamin" <dickb@xxxxxxxxx> >> >Subject: RE: IML: 56 Ballist Resistor >> >Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 20:47:42 -0700 >> >Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >> >This is a multi-part message in MIME format. >> > >> >------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C566EB.293AE340 >> >Content-Type: text/plain; >> > charset="us-ascii" >> >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit >> > >> >You understand the circuit exactly correctly. The higher resistance will >> >cause the coil to operate below the design primary voltage; however it is >> >probably not going to show up in the car's performance except under >unusual >> >circumstances. >> > >> > >> > >> >The ballast resistor is out of the circuit during start-up, so it won't >> >affect the engine starting. >> > >> > >> > >> >The symptom of a bad (open circuit) ballast resistor is that the engine >will >> >start normally, but stall as soon as you go back to the "run" position on >> >the starter switch. If this is what is happening, you might have a bad >> >ballast resistor, but a more likely explanation is in the wiring or the >> >switch itself, or possibly even the starter solenoid. >> > >> > >> > >> >A ballast resistor is the simplest of electrical parts - if you have a >VOM, >> >just measure the resistance. If it reads very low (under an OHM), it is >OK, >> >look elsewhere for your problem. If you don't have a VOM, use your test >> >light to see if the bulb lights when you touch the coil end of the >ballast >> >resistor with the key in the run position. If it lights, even dimly, the >> >resistor is probably OK. >> > >> > >> > >> >Dick Benjamin (retired (since 1979!) Electrical Engineer, still with a >few >> >remaining functioning brain cells) >> > >> >> >> ----------------- ?http://www.imperialclub.com ?----------------- >> This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please >> reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be >> shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the >> Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >> To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm >> >> > > > > >----------------- ?http://www.imperialclub.com ?----------------- >This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please >reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be >shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the >Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx >To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm > > ----------------- http://www.imperialclub.com ----------------- This message was sent to you by the Imperial Mailing List. Please reply to mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx and your response will be shared with everyone. Private messages (and attachments) for the Administrators should be sent to webmaster@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To UN-SUBSCRIBE, go to http://imperialclub.com/unsubscribe.htm