Re: IML: RE:'56 Ignition Wires

["Jan Harmonson" <jharmonson@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi

I just installed some Taylor wires on my 1955 sedan, together with plugs,
cap and rotor. These are silicon wires that come with the insulater on them.
It is not factory but works well. I had to cut and do the distributor ends
but it was no big deal. I bought them on ebay for about $40.00

Jan in Ojai CA
1955 sedan
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <RandalPark@xxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, June 02, 2005 9:03 AM
Subject: IML: RE:'56 Ignition Wires


> That brings up an interesting point.
>
> Since purchasing my '56 Imperial in 1971, I have had to make my own
ignition wires each time I have done a tune up (at least 10-15 times over
the years). That is because the spark plug "tower" connectors have to be
used over and over again, and are essential to the proper installation of
the wires. This is not difficult, but it is time consuming.
>
> Does Andy Bernbaum sell a pre-cut, preassembled set for '56??
>
> Paul W.
>
> In an email dated 2/6/2005 12:02:57 pm GMT Daylight time,
JCantor791@xxxxxxx writes:
>
> >Dick,
> >
> >I understand the circuit NOW and was headed on the right track yesterday
when
> >sitting at my computer typing in that description but I didn't understand
it
> >last week when I was testing it. If I had, I never would have bothered
> >looking at it as the car isn't having any of the performance problems you
describe.
> > I had simply been looking at the resister since the coil is definitely
on
> >its way out with low resistance on the secondary and signs of some oil
leakage.
> >
> >BTW, on a related note, I just wanted to put in a moderately good word
for
> >Mr. Bernbaum. While they're customer service may be a bit gruff, I was
> >extremely impressed with their speed and pricing. The tune-up kit, coil,
and wires
> >I finished ordering last Thursday at 5pm were on my door step by the same
time
> >Friday. And I paid less for all of that than just wires and a coil would
> >have cost me elsewhere.
> >
> >Jeff
> >'56 Sedan
> >Trenton, NJ
> >
> >
> >From: "Dick Benjamin" <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>
> >Subject: RE: IML: 56 Ballist Resistor
> >Date: Wed, 1 Jun 2005 20:47:42 -0700
> >Reply-To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
> >
> >------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C566EB.293AE340
> >Content-Type: text/plain;
> > charset="us-ascii"
> >Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
> >
> >You understand the circuit exactly correctly. The higher resistance will
> >cause the coil to operate below the design primary voltage; however it is
> >probably not going to show up in the car's performance except under
unusual
> >circumstances.
> >
> >
> >
> >The ballast resistor is out of the circuit during start-up, so it won't
> >affect the engine starting.
> >
> >
> >
> >The symptom of a bad (open circuit) ballast resistor is that the engine
will
> >start normally, but stall as soon as you go back to the "run" position on
> >the starter switch. If this is what is happening, you might have a bad
> >ballast resistor, but a more likely explanation is in the wiring or the
> >switch itself, or possibly even the starter solenoid.
> >
> >
> >
> >A ballast resistor is the simplest of electrical parts - if you have a
VOM,
> >just measure the resistance. If it reads very low (under an OHM), it is
OK,
> >look elsewhere for your problem. If you don't have a VOM, use your test
> >light to see if the bulb lights when you touch the coil end of the
ballast
> >resistor with the key in the run position. If it lights, even dimly, the
> >resistor is probably OK.
> >
> >
> >
> >Dick Benjamin (retired (since 1979!) Electrical Engineer, still with a
few
> >remaining functioning brain cells)
> >
>
>
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