I agree, and I would like to add my 2 cents .
have the oil pressure tested and confirm that your engine has good pressure.
also a compression test on the cylinders, as with the tests you will know about the condition of your engine and can decide weather or not to get the engine rebuilt, and a fresh rebuild can give you years of motoring pleasure.
on another note, what brand and type of oil do you use? I have found that some brands are recycled oil and tend to turn dark much faster than others.
and when you change the oil make sure the car is raised at a level height, because if the side of the oil pan with the drain plug is higher than the other side you may not be draining all the old oil out.
if you car has a vacuum canister, some canisters have a filter be sure you change all filters together .
things you should do at every oil change.
change both oil and filter.
change air , fuel and breather filters.
change pcv valve.
check spark plugs for proper gap. and the ignition points.
have the coolant system checked and flushed as needed.
inspect all hoses and fuel lines as well as vacuum lines and fittings .
and I always check for and leaks , such as oil around the valve covers or the oil pan. and either tighten the bolts down or replace the gaskets if needed.
check carb linkage and clean and adjust as needed.
clean battery cables and tighten as needed.
I have purchased many used cars over the years and always would find thinks that the previous owner had neglected, and as a result every car had at some point left me stranded on the side of the road, but because of this , I check these things before I buy a car.
RandalPark@xxxxxxx wrote:
This is absolutely true, but if it turns black suddenly, right after it is changed, it usually is a sign of another problem. The stuff in the bottom of the pan doesn't travel around that fast, although it will over time.
Instant black oil is caused by crank case fumes(blow by). Two critical things to check for is excessively rich fuel mixture, and a dirty or malfunctioning crank case ventilation system. In free breathing engines, which a '67 Imperial is not, the filler cap breather and draft tube need to be checked or cleaned. In positive crankcase ventilated cars ('67 Imperial is this) the system needs to be checked.
If these things check out okay, and the change from clean to black is somewhat gradual, then there is not much to worry about.
Paul W.
In an email dated 10/5/2005 5:01:39 am GMT Daylight time, "Dick Benjamin"
writes:
>There is no reason to be concerned that your oil looks black. Modern oils
>have additives that hold contaminants in suspension, making the oil turn
>black pretty quickly. If you are maintaining your engine in accordance with
>the recommended intervals, including changing the oil filter at least every
>other oil change, there is no problem with the oil looking dirty. Also, it
>is important that you maintain the cooling system properly, so that the
>temperature of the engine comes up to 180 fairly quickly, and that you avoid
>short trips.
>
>
>
>Dick Benjamin
>
>
>
> _____
>
>From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
>DONALDDICKINSOND@xxxxxx
>Sent: Monday, May 09, 2005 12:50 PM
>To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: IML: Dirty
Oil in my 440
>
>
>
>Is there a reliable and safe way I can clean out my 440? I have been
>changing my oil every 1000 (or less) miles but I still have dirty oil on my
>dip stick. Is this normal, or is there a solution out there?
>
>
>Don Dickinson
>Prospect, KY
>
>1955 Imperial Newport, Canyon Tan and Desert Sand
>1967 Imperial Custom Convertible, Ivory and Burgundy
>
>
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