Re: IML: Please help me start my 440!

["jsadowski" <jsadowski@xxxxxxx>]

The plug gap is the same .035 on all from around 59 through at least the 
late 70's. They all use Autolite #85 plugs.
John
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Whitney" <david.whitney@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 10:21 PM
Subject: RE: IML: Please help me start my 440!






I concur with previous posters that getting the distributor 180 degrees out
of phase is not hard to do.

BUT if you were achieving combustion, I would think you would experience
backfire through the carburetor if that were the case because the cylinders
would neither be firing in the proper sequence nor have the proper
combination of open and closed valves.  It does not sound to me like
combustion is happening.  Is manifold vacuum sufficient to pull atomized
air/fuel through the throttle plates?  What comes out of the tailpipe when
you crank it over?  If there's no soot in the exhaust, nothing is burning.

413s are not that different than 440s.  Improper spark plugs may affect
performance, and I think the gap is different from '65 to '72, but should
not result in no start.  To be sure, I'd spend a few bucks for the
specified plugs and set the gap to spec.  You say spark plugs are firing --
did you observe spark at the electrode or from the wire to the plug with
the plug installed?

I recommend hand cranking per Robin's suggestion to get oil pressure up
before trying to turn the engine over with the key.  Lubrication of
cylinder walls is a good idea to prevent premature wear on first startup,
plus it helps give the proper seal to achieve compression.

There are a few other things in the Mopar books about first starting up,
but I don't have them with me right now.

Persevere,

David



                     "Dick Benjamin"
                     <dickb@xxxxxxxxx>               To: 
<mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
                     Sent by:                        cc:
                     mailing-list-owner@imper        Subject:  RE: IML: 
Please help me start my 440!
                     ialclub.com


                     01/18/2005 08:26 PM
                     Please respond to
                     mailing-list






1.  Remove #1 spark plug, and install a compression test gauge.
2.  Crank the engine until you just begin to see pressure building up.
3.  Remove the distributor cap and see what plug wire the rotor is pointed
at.  If it is pointed at #1, your distributor is in correctly.  If it is
pointed at #6, your distributor is 180 degrees out of time.

These are 4 stroke engines.  This means the crank goes around twice for
each
time the cam rotates - thus you have a 50/50 chance of getting the
distributor in backwards, unless you checked for this when assembling the
engine.

Dick Benjamin



-----Original Message-----
From: mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:mailing-list-owner@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
commenace@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2005 11:31 AM
To: mailing-list@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: IML: Please help me start my 440!

I just dropped a freshly rebuilt 440 and trans, as well as a newly rebuilt
gear box, et al, in my 1965 Imperial Le Baron. (I know 413 is proper, but
I
wanted a little more, so please no comments on my choice of engine.)

On Saturday, we buttoned everything up and tried sparking her
up. Nothing. The engine cranks, rather slowly, but never starts. Went out
and got a new
battery, engine cranked a little faster, but still no start. Timing is
spot
on. No. 1 has compression when it's supposed to, sparkplugs are firing,
fuel pump is giving us gas.

What's going on?

A few things concern me: first, the engine seems to crank slower than I
remember, and second it feels as if the timing is off or the plugs aren't
getting power, or if they are, it seems the spark is a little weak. I
bought a new battery and starter, but as yet have not installed the new
starter. The timing has been checked more times than I can remember! It
is
right, I'm sure of it!  Is it possible that the spark is too weak?  How can
that be rectified?

The battery cables seemed a bit thin, about 6 or 8 gauge.  I will be buying
some fat cables this week and trying that on Saturday.  What about ground
strapping the block?  Anyone try that?  Does it make a difference?

My new engine was made in '72. I believe the heads the heads are from mid
seventies. However, the plugs are the same type I was using on my '65
413. Is it possible that these plugs are too shallow, not getting close
enough
to the air/fuel mixture? Does that make any sense? Does anyone have any
idea as to why it turns slighltly slower than before? Is the torque
converter (also new and installed correctly) not allowing the engine to
turn
freely? Also, it should be noted that the compression ratio is only about
a
point higher, around 9.7.

Any ideas, ladies and gentlemen?

Please help me, I've been without my baby for too long!
Thanx.
John.

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