|
|
Veteran
Posts: 167
 
Location: Simi Valley, CA | Does anyone have a GOOD source that can rebuild the 55-56 Dodge Coaxial Power Steering Unit? |
|
| |
|
Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 10472
Location: So. Cal | Where did you go? I have a couple of suggestions, though I had them rebuild my '58 steering box, not the '56. |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 167
Location: Simi Valley, CA | Hello, Nathan
I took the unit out and took it to B&Z Rebuilders in Canoga Park. He originally said he could do it for $ 250. However the price changed up to $345 when he said part of the casing was broke and would have to take parts from the other collum. So I took the backup steering collum in to check it out to see if it leaked. Well he said it did leak and it had a broken bolt hole in the main case. So he took the best parts from both steering collums to make one good one. I had left my service manual with them to refer to when rebuilding them. I think they did something to case which caused it to break, but have no way to prove it.
So I brought the completed unit home and put it in. However now when I start the car the steering turns to the right all the way on its own! And it won't turn back!
Just as a side note I went thru all my receitts and found the place where I had it rebuilt about 12yrs ago. With that one I just installed it and had no problem. Well I call them and they are still in business. Its "The Rebuild Factory" in Oxnard. I called them and they confirmed that they could still rebuild them for $500( thats what I paid 12 yrs ago).
I printed out the dealer Service Booklet and it has some procedures to do to adjust it. But I'm unsure of my self to attemp them on my own! B&Z has said for me to remove it and take it back to them!
I guess thats what I'm going to!
Can you give me a call, I would like to talk to you about It. My cell is 805-433-5540
Thanks, Ernie
|
|
| |
|
Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 10992
Location: Lower Mainland BC | .
Ernie: I think the answer you seek should be in this training manual:
https://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/087.pdf
|
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 167
Location: Simi Valley, CA | I have the training booklet and my service manual. I guess I was expecting it to be just install and and all would work perfectly! |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 167
Location: Simi Valley, CA | I have the training booklet and my service manual. I guess I was expecting it to be just install and and all would work perfectly! |
|
| |
|
Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 10992
Location: Lower Mainland BC | Burnemup - 2025-06-21 8:23 AM
I have the training booklet and my service manual. I guess I was expecting it to be just install and and all would work perfectly!
I think my point was/is that whoever rebuilt the unit had to get internal things in a "centered" position and that
they probably didn't do that.
I am not sure what you could do now other than open things up again and get the internal "alignment" done properly.
Good luck with that. Hope you can get it fixed 
|
|
| |
|
Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 10472
Location: So. Cal | It's a really sensitive adjustment. You have to have the engine running the pump while you adjust it. Follow the instructions in the booklet that Dave posted. |
|
| |
|
Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 10992
Location: Lower Mainland BC | Powerflite - 2025-06-21 10:56 AM
It's a really sensitive adjustment. You have to have the engine running the pump while you adjust it. Follow the instructions in the booklet that Dave posted.
Here is some info from the 1956 Chrysler shop manual:
21. ADJUSTMENTS OF COAXIAL GEAR
(Installed)
Adjusting Manual Control Valve (Centering
Hydraulically.) (In Car.) Where it is difficult to
rotate the steering wheel in one direction but not
in the other direction, or where the wheels turn
of their own accord, equalize tire pressure and
check front wheel alignment. If conditions still
exist, it is an indication that the control valve
is out of adjustment"
Remove parts, as necessary, to gain access to
steering tube coupling. Remove coupling retain-
ing screw, lockwasher, and plain washer from
worm shaft. Insert manual control valve cen-
tering tool (slotted end first) into worm shaft
and engage tool with tang on control valve oper-
ating rod. Two men are required to center the
valve.
One man moves the valve as directed, while
another man checks the torque required to move
the Pitman arm through its travel in both direc-
tions. Move Pitman arm through travel from
one extreme to the other with torque wrench,
Tool C-3005 and 1 7/16 inch socket, observing the
torque reading. The torque should be the same
in both directions. Turn adjusting rod as re-
quired until an equal torque reading is obtained.
The Pitman arm retaining nuts should be tight-
ened to 120 foot-pounds torque."
By the way, "Remove parts, as necessary, to gain access to
steering tube coupling" means a hell of a lot of work to remove the
upper steering column but probably less than removing the steering box.
There is several mentions of using the C-3445 tool to make the adjustment of the
manual control valve. I can't find a photo of this C-3445 but I think that it is a rod with a slot
at the down end and probably a square end at the top (they mention use of a tapping tool
handle).
None of it sounds like fun so good luck Ernie.
The C-3445 is mentioned in this 56 Chrysler tool catalogue but only as part of a set:
https://archive.org/details/miller-service-tools-chrysler-1956/page/...
|
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 4215
Location: Connecticut | If you want it done right, then send it to Lares Corp https://www.larescorp.com/ They rebuilt the early '55 Coaxial unit for my Desoto. An especially difficult beast. Works great now. Expect to spend around 1000, including shipping charges. Ron |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 167
Location: Simi Valley, CA | Well here is where I stand so far. After I pulled the steering column again, I took it back to the rebuilder and I printed out a copy of the service booklet, a copy of the entire section on power steering from my Service Manual and copy of this thread in order to give them as much info as I could. They did whatever they did to adjust it and then I reinstalled it. Well it worked well enough to allow me to drive the car But they reinstalled the steering shaft 180degrees off which had the steering wheel orientated upside down. Now when I drive the car it goes straight but pulls to the left. Now after some minor wiring issues, I will correct the steering wheel orientation and adjust the control valve in order to resolve the problem. The next phase of this effort is to replace a high pressure hose from the reservoir to the pump. Once the car is operating OK, I then plan to ultimately to go back to the original Generator(56 12 volt) and power steering pump in the hopes that it will operate at the correct pressure so not to blow seals. |
|
| |
|
Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 10992
Location: Lower Mainland BC | .
Ernie: Sorry to hear that your steering box issue continues. 
In the defense of the shop, the coupler could be easily out by 180 degrees.
In "prosecution" of the shop, they are idiots who didn't pay enough attention. That wide gap in the steering shaft splines needs to be at the 12 O'clock position, not 6 O'clock.
Perhaps they are of the newer generation(s), that can't tell time on an analogue clock. ("Mickey's big hand goes where?")
The coupler and rubber insulator (and connection pin):
REFERENCE: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=77734&...
Other than the wiring that needs to be disconnected, I think that you can fix the problem by only dealing with the upper column, leaving the box in place:
|
|
| |
|
Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 10472
Location: So. Cal | Yes, that's the problem with running a newer pump on these old power steering gears. The pressure is usually much higher in the newer pumps and can easily blow out the seals in them. There are some newer pumps that run lower pressures. In the early rack & pinion setup for the Pinto, I believe those pumps had lower pressures, but you have to research it out if you want to use something else.
Edited by Powerflite 2025-07-14 5:32 PM
|
|
| |
|
Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 10992
Location: Lower Mainland BC | .
Borgeson/Mullins makes a kit for Saginaw PS pumps that permits pressure reductions needed for some rack and pinion racks, and, in our
cases, the Coaxial PS box.
Del S. (Dels56) is investigating which shims to use on 55-56 Coaxial box.
Del??
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brg-899001?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIa...
Edited by 56D500boy 2025-07-14 7:09 PM
|
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 167
Location: Simi Valley, CA | Ok, I got the original Generator & Power steering pump on and seems to be working good, it actually is like it did when I bought it. And their is NO growling! Right now the only thing to do is to rotate the steering shaft so that the steering wheel is orientated correctly. It shouldn't be long before I give the final report! |
|
| |
|
Exner Expert 10K+
Posts: 10472
Location: So. Cal | Nice! Good to hear. |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 167
Location: Simi Valley, CA | Well, I corrected the orientation of the steering wheel yesterday and all seems to be working good! It feels like it did when I first purchased the car and I believe it is running at a slight less pressure that what I had before, so maybe I won't have to do this job again! |
|
| |
55-56 Dodge Coaxial power steering
