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Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Electrical, Battery and Charging | Message format |
Powerflite![]() |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10268 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: So. Cal | The generator in my '58 Fireflite died (no output at all), so I replaced it with another used one I had sitting around. It charges fine, but if I rev the engine up higher the voltage continues to go up to at least 17 volts at high rpm. I figured the voltage regulator has also gone bad. So I replaced it with an old NOS rebuilt unit. It still does the same thing. The battery has never had any issues, but that could be because I rarely ever rev the engine that high. Assuming that the new/old regulator is working, does anyone know what could cause it? I am going to try replacing the regulator again to see if that works, but I don't know what to do if it doesn't. I'm also thinking of changing to a solid state regulator, but I've never heard of one made for a generator. Does anyone know if the new GM regulator is made with solid state components? I assume this would work on our cars as well since it has the same ARM, FLD, BAT connections. There is a new version for Mopar as well, but the price is very high at $127, so I doubt it is made with solid state components. GM Version https://www.ebay.com/itm/175667873348 Mopar Version: https://www.ebay.com/itm/125730665510 (New 50s GM Volt Reg.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() | ||
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56D500boy![]() |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10649 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Nathan: I think that both the points-type regulators that you have been trying need to be cleaned (points filed) and adjusted. They are not working at all. ![]() ![]() | ||
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geoffs60![]() |
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Veteran Posts: 190 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: christchurch New Zealand | Check that the regulator is well grounded to the car, they are typically attached thru rubber insulators with brass washers on the attaching bolts. Had a similar issue and it was just bad earthing. Geoff | ||
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Powerflite![]() |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10268 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: So. Cal | I was concerned about the ground connection as well. So I attached 2 clips to the clean housing, directly to the ground post of the battery. It did make a little difference, mainly that the overall voltage was a little higher - especially at idle. But not much difference other than that. It still ramped up to over 17 volts at high rpm. Dave I suspect that you could be right, but this new regulator should have worked out of the box. I found out that the GM regulator likely won't work because their generators are wired backwards from ours. A friend of mine, who is a Ford guy told me that a place in Los Angeles can convert old regulators to solid state. He had that done for a Studebaker he owned. That intrigues me so I will contact them and see what they say. | ||
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geoffs60![]() |
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Veteran Posts: 190 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: christchurch New Zealand | At 17 volts, you will be well on your way to replacing lots of light bulbs, would be interested in the comments you can get on the solid state conversion, keep us informed. Thanks Geoff | ||
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Shep![]() |
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Expert Posts: 3470 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Make sure the field wire is not grounded somewhere, or on the wrong terminal, this can drive the gen to full output. | ||
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Powerflite![]() |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10268 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: So. Cal | Thanks Shep for the very helpful advice. I disconnected the wires from the regulator and checked the resistance between the field and ground, and found that it was only 0.3 ohms. So I disconnected all the wires from the generator too and measured directly on the generator itself and found: Armature: 0.6 to 0.8 ohms, Is this is normal? Field: 8 to 9 ohms, I guess this is normal I also measured the wires, which were completely disconnected from everything except the ground wire. I still had 0.3 ohms from the field wire to ground. So that's an obvious problem. I don't see a problem with the wire outside of the wrapping, so somewhere inside the wrap, it's shorting out somewhere. I need to take it apart and replace everything. | ||
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Powerflite![]() |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10268 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: So. Cal | I also called the auto electric place. They told me that the solid state regulator won't fit inside a VR15 regulator housing that Chrysler uses. But they would sell it to me outright for $125. That's more than I am willing to pay for it, as that's 1/3 of the way toward a powergen alternator instead, which would be my preferred solution if it weren't for the cost. Also, I suspect that the regulators they are selling are used with RV/camping generators. If I could find a 14 volt/30-40 amp regulator for those, I bet it should be possible to rewire it to work here; and I bet it's a lot cheaper than $125. Edited by Powerflite 2025-06-17 1:52 PM | ||
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Powerflite![]() |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10268 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: So. Cal | I fixed the harness issue. It turned out to be something stupid, as most electrical problems are. I was connecting the ground wire to the field, and vice versa. Many previous owners ago had replaced the harness and used all red wires for everything. So I thought for sure that the ground wire was the field wire etc. Anyway, I swapped the connections and now I have 13.08 volts at idle, which is more than before. Before I only had 12.7 volts at idle. And now it maxes out at 13.5 volts. I would prefer to max out a little higher, but I don't feel like messing with it for a while. | ||
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