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ClassicCars![]() |
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Regular Posts: 70 ![]() ![]() | Was able to pull the intake, distributor etc today. Tomorrow will pull the heads. Looks pretty gummy in the engine...especially the exhaust cross over. Definitely best I'm pulling the engine. (Engine apart 1a.jpg) (Engine apart 2a.jpg) (Engine apart 3a.jpg) (Engine apart 4a.jpg) (Engine apart 5a.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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ronbo97![]() |
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Expert Posts: 4146 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Connecticut | How many miles on the engine ? All that gunk was probably related to the high ash content of early motor oils, as well as previous owners starting the car, running it for a minute or two, then shutting it off. Hope you're gonna have it rebuilt. That's right around the corner for my 326 as well. Ron | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 731 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | That is a "normal" looking engine inside of a unrestored engine from the fifties...that engine really needed a bath.. | ||
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ClassicCars![]() |
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Regular Posts: 70 ![]() ![]() | Got the heads pulled today. Cylinders look better than expected. Don't see any major scoring, rust or ring ridge. Still could not get the engine to turn over. Valves look a little rusty. (Driver side cylinders A.jpg) (Passenger side cylinders A.jpg) (Driver side cylinder head.jpg) (Passenger side cylinder head.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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Powerflite![]() |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10138 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: So. Cal | Not being able to turn it over at this point is very unusual. Check for something being jammed in the ring gear, but if it's clear, it likely means you have major issues inside the engine. If the ridge is small, you could just take the pistons out and hone the cylinders with new rings. It would save you a lot of money that way, compared to a full rebuild - of course, depending on what is stopping it from turning. | ||
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22mafeja![]() |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 731 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Finland | Front cover and oil pan off ...then you know what has happened. If you see nothing broken loosen all conrod nuts you can get to and as Nathan mentioned, try to carefully knock at the end of the conrods with a hard wood wedge or plastic piece . That way you can see which pistons are stuck and concentrate on these. | ||
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Rebels-59![]() |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: .Norfolk..Mafia.. ,England UK | ClassicCars - 2024-06-20 1:31 AM Got the heads pulled today. Cylinders look better than expected. Don't see any major scoring, rust or ring ridge. Still could not get the engine to turn over. Valves look a little rusty. Hi Dave.. Not read anywhere about if you have unbolted the start Motor,, As if not my Suggestion is to check to see if starter motor is engaged in the flywheel teeth, as had this on a vehicle years ago, and the Starter motor was engaged and Seized, So engine wouldnt turn over and gave opinion of Engine Seized, I turned engine backwards using a light bar on Flywheel teeth and it pushed the engaged starter motor off, freed up engine, i had to remove Starter motor and rebuild it,, But a Seized engaged Starter will create your symptoms, Worth a Check regardless mate.. Clive | ||
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ClassicCars![]() |
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Regular Posts: 70 ![]() ![]() | Thanks everyone for the comments. I did pull the started when I first bought the car hoping that was the issue but no luck. I could see from the starter gear teeth that someone tried using the starter to spin the motor as there was some serious wear on the teeth. I'm probably going to pull the motor eventually and remove the water pump and timing cover to see if there are any obvious issues and then the oil pan. I have some family issues right now so this may have to sit until I can get back to it. | ||
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ClassicCars![]() |
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Regular Posts: 70 ![]() ![]() | Pulled the motor over the weekend and started disassembly. Actually does not look bad at all....but still does not rotate. Oil pan had gunk in it but not that much and the oil pick up screen was not clogged. Could not get the bell housing and torque converter off due to that hidden bolt inside the bell housing. Removed all the crankshaft caps and rod caps. Bearings show signs of wear. Two of the 8 pistons were easy to tap out. The others are REALLY stuck in there. I'm wondering if someone overheated this engine and that's why it was parked. I can tell there is nothing blocking the timing chain and the cam is free. I just need to get the crank to spin so I can remove the torque converter bolts to remove it and the bellhousing. Will be putting those on another engine. (Rotating assembly 1a.jpg) (Bearings main and rods.jpg) (Bearings and timing chain.jpg) (Bearings main and rods 2.jpg) (Inside oil pan.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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ClassicCars![]() |
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Regular Posts: 70 ![]() ![]() | Good morning and Happy Halloween!! It's been awhile but I've made progress on the 1959 Dodge Coronet. The engine is done and installed. All fluids, etc changed. Engine spins over great, fuel and cooling system work great. The ONE problem is I have no spark at the plugs. I've checked the battery and have 12.5v. At the resistor I have 12.3v on one side and it gets reduced to 6.3v on the other side going to the coil. At the coil I have 6.3v. When I crank the engine there is spark at the points and the rotor spins. I pulled the cable from the coil to the distributor cap and there is spark from the coil. Just nothing getting to the wires. I did install all new cap, rotor, wires and plugs. I swapped the rotor and no change. I did set the distributor at TDC watching the intake and valves close and the crank mark at about 10 degrees BTDC. The distributor was point slightly past the #1 cylinder (but the only other option was 180 degrees the other way) so thinking it should be in time. So, will try another cap. Just can't figure out where the spark is going if it's coming out of the coil into the cap and then going nowhere with the points/condensor working. Could it be grounding out in the distributor? Any help or guidance from this wonderful group would be appreciated. Here are some pictures. Thanks!! (Finished engine passenger.jpg) (Finished engine driver.jpg) (Finished engine front.jpg) (Driver side view.jpg) Attachments ---------------- ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() | ||
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ClassicCars![]() |
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Regular Posts: 70 ![]() ![]() | Just to provide some additional information, I'm testing for spark with an in line spark tester between the spark plug and spark plug wire. I also put a known good spark plug in the end of the spark plug wire and ground that. Thanks. | ||
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Powerflite![]() |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10138 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: So. Cal | You don't really need the tester. You can usually just ground the plug and look at the spark bridging the gap at the plug. My first guess would be that the cap isn't correct for the rotor. Try putting the old cap & rotor back on and see how it goes. | ||
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ClassicCars![]() |
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Regular Posts: 70 ![]() ![]() | Just an update. I tried using the old cap and rotor and still no spark. Maybe I should bypass the resistor and put a full 12v to the coil. It's sparking on 6v after the resistor but is it possible that is not enough to spark the plugs?? | ||
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Powerflite![]() |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10138 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: So. Cal | Yes, it's possible your coil is bad, or needs more power. Another possibility is that your tester is bad. That's why I suggested not using it. | ||
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Finsinthemirror![]() |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 1141 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: CA | Shouldn't the voltage after the ballast resistor be like 9 or 10v? I sure like that Dodge, great job! Edited by Finsinthemirror 2024-10-31 6:27 PM | ||
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ronbo97![]() |
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Expert Posts: 4146 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Connecticut | Finsinthemirror - 2024-10-31 6:26 PM Shouldn't the voltage after the ballast resistor be like 9 or 10v? I sure like that Dodge, great job! Yes. This. 6.3V is way too low. Ron | ||
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ClassicCars![]() |
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Regular Posts: 70 ![]() ![]() | Will also need to rebuild the carb as the needle and seat don't seem to be sealing. Does anyone recommend any place in particular for a carb rebuild kit? I see one on the Mopar mall. Thanks. | ||
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jwheath68![]() |
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Regular Posts: 83 ![]() ![]() ![]() Location: Okielahoma | Jon at THE CARBURETOR SHOP in Missouri has complete carb kits, his number is 573-392-7378 or look up online, provide your carb numbers, I've bought many for GM applications from him over the years, he might have what you need ALso JonEHardgrove@gmail.com Edited by jwheath68 2024-11-06 9:39 PM | ||
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ClassicCars![]() |
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Regular Posts: 70 ![]() ![]() | Thanks for the carb recommendations. Also, thanks to everyone who helped with the electrical issue. Hopefully I will have time this weekend to test and will update the group. Thanks again!! | ||
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ClassicCars![]() |
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Regular Posts: 70 ![]() ![]() | Well, was able to bypass the power from the resistor and run 12v directly to the coil. Cranked the engine over and there was spark at both the spark tester and a spark plug. I measured the voltage again before I jumped it and it was 6v. It looks like the resistor is either bad or the wrong one as a direct 12v works. Now time to rebuild the carb and then hopefully it starts. | ||
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