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Starter bushings and brushes Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7501 Location: northern germany | Somebody know a source? Big Block starter 2642692 | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9902 Location: So. Cal | Rockauto has the bushings, brushes and drive for it. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7501 Location: northern germany | OK, thank you! They usually have nothing for my applications and didn't even consider them | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7501 Location: northern germany | And again, no exception. Nothing. The bushings measurements are wrong and the brushes are listed, but not available, as usual. | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9902 Location: So. Cal | There are a bunch on Ebay. I'm not sure exactly what yours looks like to point you to one, but if you search the US EBay site, you should find some to choose from. I think there are differences between 6cyl and other applications as Mopar starter interchange is insane, so you have to compare to your originals. Or figure out the part number of the brushes you need and Len Dawson has an assortment of them for sale for around $15. As far as I can tell, the part number should be 1843135 like in the last link, but you should check yourself. https://www.ebay.com/itm/203965152371 https://www.ebay.com/itm/125270583407 https://www.ebay.com/itm/292986715917 https://www.ebay.com/itm/313794714935 https://www.ebay.com/itm/384369455954 Edited by Powerflite 2023-11-23 10:48 PM | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7501 Location: northern germany | Thank you very much Nathan. They do not fit and I have never soldered(?) a wire to a brush. Did you? How does it work? | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9902 Location: So. Cal | I can't help you there. Sorry. But I would expect there to be a press-fit pin that goes into it, as I don't think it would be solderable. But it's just a guess. | ||
mstrug |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 6560 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | CHRYSLER – STARTER- 2642692-R The Berns Company is a wholesale supplier of replacement parts – a customer with specific brand or specification requirements must advise up front upon inquiry or order. Prices are subject to change at any time. All names, numbers and symbols are used for description purposes only. The Berns Company is not an authorized dealer for any of the products of the aforementioned manufacturers. https://thebernscompany.com/product/chrysler-starter-2642692-r/ | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7501 Location: northern germany | Powerflite - 2023-11-25 11:46 PM I can't help you there. Sorry. But I would expect there to be a press-fit pin that goes into it, as I don't think it would be solderable. But it's just a guess. Yes, very likely press fit and certainly not soldered. Thanks again for the links. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7501 Location: northern germany | mstrug - 2023-11-26 6:11 PM CHRYSLER – STARTER- 2642692-R The Berns Company is a wholesale supplier of replacement parts – a customer with specific brand or specification requirements must advise up front upon inquiry or order. Prices are subject to change at any time. All names, numbers and symbols are used for description purposes only. The Berns Company is not an authorized dealer for any of the products of the aforementioned manufacturers. https://thebernscompany.com/product/chrysler-starter-2642692-r/[/QUO... Thank you Marc, I'll check that out | ||
dels56 |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 366 | The brushes pictured did not have a wire connected to the brush. The hole is for a screw that secured the brush to a spring loaded holder. The wire pigtail is a different style. Del | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13068 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Just don't buy the Standard CX4 - when I checked and serviced my starter, the old used brushes since 1960 was longer than the new Standard CX4 - duh | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7501 Location: northern germany | wizard - 2023-11-27 2:33 AM Just don't buy the Standard CX4 - when I checked and serviced my starter, the old used brushes since 1960 was longer than the new Standard CX4 - duh :wince: Due to my habbit, to crank the engine when cold until oil presure is there before starting, I bet mine are shorter | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9902 Location: So. Cal | I believe I used IMI-126-002A1 in my '58 DeSoto Fireflite. It might work in your '60 Plymouth, but mopar starter interchange is insane. '60 Chrysler starters don't interchange with big block '60 Plymouth starters, by the book. Probably due to a change in the solenoid location. To be sure you get the right part, you should contact IMI directly at: Sales@hitorque.com This is what my starter looks like: (Don't trust their model application listed here) https://www.rareelectrical.com/i-26921194-new-12v-cw-imi-high-prefor... | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7501 Location: northern germany | Thank you. There is one on Ebay, that supposedly fits. The reason they are available for us outcasts is, they used the starter up to 64 in manual cars only and in newer fork lifts! The 60 Chrysler starters interchange with all 58-61 Big Blocks afaik. I have a 60 Desoto with a 383, that is basically a 60 Chrysler and it is the same starter that I had in my 383 Golden Commando and the one I have in my Fury now temporarely, came from a 60 Chrysler (different type of starter, OE but not made by Chrysler). They changed the manufacturer, hence the different part numbers. I like the 2642692 (Chrysler manufactured) starter better and it's lighter too. Since the B blocks and the TCs of the T-Flites never changed during the FL years, I see no reason for not interchanging starters for Big Blocks from 58-61. Edited by 1960fury 2023-11-27 11:32 PM | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7501 Location: northern germany | OK, got it fixed, sort of... It's alot better than before at least. The brushes that can be used with some easy mods are LASX36 which are cheap and readily available, in case somone else runs into the same problem. Same width, a little taller that can be filed down and longer, which needs some notching so the springs still fit. These fit both big block FL starters, the MDT XXXX and the Chrysler 2642692. Of course the wires need to be changed too. The actual problem was, that one of the insulator thrust washers was worn away, causing the armature to shift, almost touching the housing and rubbing on a cable. I could hear spark jumping sometimes. I replaced it with a homemade Teflon washer. Edited by 1960fury 2023-12-20 10:03 PM (starter5.jpg) (starter6.jpg) Attachments ---------------- starter5.jpg (164KB - 79 downloads) starter6.jpg (76KB - 80 downloads) | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7501 Location: northern germany | So I drove around for some time without any problems, starter working fine, but once it was almost as bad as before, slow cranking when hot. I do not think it is a heat soak thing, as it went away after a 3rd try immediatly after the slow cranking, engine still at the same temperature. What could it be? The solenoid? Anyone ever had the same problem? | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13068 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | It can be the solenoid Sid, try to open it and check the contact surfaces. I usually undercut the collector with a thin saw blade, but that should not solve your problems. Either solenoid or mechanical issue | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7501 Location: northern germany | I disasembled, cleaned and greased the solenoid. Maybe that is the actuall reason it works better now. At least the shifting armature and spark-over is fixed now and also the brushes would have made problems in the nearer future. Still consider buying a lightweight starter, but do not like the design, with no outer support for the gear | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13068 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | If you have this type of fork Sid, it's possibble to mount the fork wrong and this will cause excessive force (IMG_4200-re.jpg) Attachments ---------------- IMG_4200-re.jpg (229KB - 75 downloads) | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7501 Location: northern germany | I didn't touch that and it worked fine for ages before, but thanks for the hint, Sven | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7501 Location: northern germany | Back to like it was before. No problems when cold but when hot, it SOMETIMES cranks so slow, it does not start. Maybe it has something to do with the random position of the ring gear on the torque converter? Because after a few tries until it almost stops completly, it suddenly works as it should again. Anyway, I gave up and bought a new light weight unit. | ||
1960fury |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 7501 Location: northern germany | Got the new starter. It's flimsy, 1/3 of the weight. I think it won't last. I guess I have to stop cranking when cold to build up oil pressure before starting. | ||
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