The Forward Look Network | ||
| ||
Headlight switch rebuild Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Electrical, Battery and Charging | Message format |
LostDeere59 |
| ||
Extreme Veteran Posts: 407 Location: Hilltown, PA | So this isn't technically a Forward Look question, but the components are the same and as a group the members here do more repair vs. replace than any other group I know. I have a co-worker with a very very nice 68 Charger he has restored. Currently he is having an issue with the dash lights which seems to be the rheostat in the headlight switch. He has previously disassembled and cleaned the contacts - which was fine for a while - but recently the dash lights have failed completely. My question is has anyone used the rheostat winding from a later model switch in an original headlight switch from their car, and if so what issues did you have? He can get a reproduction headlight switch, but at $180 its a little salty. There are plenty of more generic but similar construction switches available new for $12 - $15. Any thoughts or experiences? Thanks Gregg | ||
JedRhule |
| ||
Veteran Posts: 108 Location: Palm Beach County Florida | I jumped the dash light rheostat so they run at full power, eliminating the flicker. I do not need the dimming function. If you find yours are too bright, you could add a resistor. | ||
mstrug |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 6560 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | https://www.ebay.com/itm/144593186003 .1968-70 Charger Coronet GTX Road Runner Dash Dimmer Switch Reproduction of the dash dimmer switch designed for use on 1968-70 Dodge and Plymouth B-Body models. This OEM style dimmer switch assembly features a chrome plated thumb-wheel surrounded by a die-cast body and a ceramic rheostat as original. Manufactured with all new tooling for an original appearance and functionality. For Charger, Coronet, Road Runner, GTX, Belvedere, Superbird, and Satellite models as listed. Installs in the gauge panel and controls the brightness of the dash lighting. Dodge Application: 1969-1970 Dodge Charger 500 1968-1970 Dodge Charger Base 1969-1969 Dodge Charger Daytona 1968-1970 Dodge Charger R/T 1969-1969 Dodge Charger SE 1968-1970 Dodge Coronet 440 1968-1970 Dodge Coronet 500 1970-1970 Dodge Coronet Base 1968-1970 Dodge Coronet Deluxe 1968-1970 Dodge Coronet R/T 1968-1970 Dodge Coronet Super BeePlymouth Application: 1968-1970 Plymouth Belvedere Base 1968-1970 Plymouth Belvedere Satellite 1970-1970 Plymouth GTX 1968-1970 Plymouth Road Runner 1968-1970 Plymouth Satellite Base 1968-1970 Plymouth Satellite Sport 1970-1970 Plymouth Superbird Replaces OEM numbers 2932873, 2809047, 3420925, and 3514417. | ||
56D500boy |
| ||
Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10192 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Umm...NO? https://www.ebay.com/itm/144593186003 | ||
LostDeere59 |
| ||
Extreme Veteran Posts: 407 Location: Hilltown, PA | Was just gonna say . . . Looks a little scammy to me lol Maybe its a kit!! Edited by LostDeere59 2023-11-13 4:01 PM | ||
mstrug |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 6560 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | I messaged him: Hi Madison: Is this the actual picture if the dimmer? Thanks! marc Struglia. New message from: madison-motors (33,944TURQUOISE_SHOOTING_STAR Star) Hello, Sorry, no. They come packaged from OER. Thank you | ||
Powerflite |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 9902 Location: So. Cal | JedRhule - 2023-11-10 2:30 PM I jumped the dash light rheostat so they run at full power, eliminating the flicker. I do not need the dimming function. If you find yours are too bright, you could add a resistor. Smart move, and that's really what I would recommend too. I purchased an NOS headlight switch from Ebay for my '58 Coronet only to find that it was a factory defect. Much worse than my original with mis-wirings inside it. So I bypassed the dimmer on my old one and don't miss it. I always have it maxed out while driving anyway because these dash lights aren't very bright. If you find yourself doing the same thing, then just bypass it. But if you insist on fixing it, you'll have to open up the original housing, take the windings out and soak them in a de-corrosion solution (not sure which one is best). Because the issue is likely that the windings & arm have a coating of corrosion on them that is preventing them from making good, low resistance contact. Then put it back together with a good coating of dielectric grease on everything. | ||
JedRhule |
| ||
Veteran Posts: 108 Location: Palm Beach County Florida | With the modernistic dash design of the FL cars, you could put red LED dash bulbs in and pretend you are piloting a Klingon "Bird of Prey". | ||
LostDeere59 |
| ||
Extreme Veteran Posts: 407 Location: Hilltown, PA | Thanks for the thoughts. Just to follow up: The Ebay listing referenced above is actually NOT for a dimmer switch. The photo is correct - the listing is actually for alternator spacers. The price my co-worker has is for an OER switch. He has decided he will probably by-pass the variable resistor as some of you suggested, he leaves the lights full bright all the time anyway. Gregg | ||
wheelcover |
| ||
Veteran Posts: 136 Location: Wyoming | I’ve recently found a guy on eBay who rebuilds these. PM me if you’d like his phone number. After texting back and forth and looking at some of his work, I’m going to send him a couple of my switches, one of which is a headlight switch. | ||
imfinlay |
| ||
Extreme Veteran Posts: 502 Location: London, England | I just did my own. It’s easy. | ||
Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] |
Search this forum Printer friendly version E-mail a link to this thread |
(Delete all cookies set by this site) | |