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camshaft for 318 poly?
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Knighty
Posted 2005-11-06 9:18 PM (#42961)
Subject: camshaft for 318 poly?



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Posts: 403
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Location: Victoria, AUSTRALIA
Want somthing with a bit more lump. Cruise car only.
any camshaft you guys / girls can suggest.
Rest of motor will be stock. trying to obtain 4 barrel intake and carb also.
I have new ignition system but not to concerned about revs. just so it sounds hot!
any ideas

thanks

knighty
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DeSotohead
Posted 2005-11-07 8:26 AM (#43005 - in reply to #42961)
Subject: RE: camshaft for 318 poly?



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Several people have discussed this on the forum in the past (so you can dredge the old archives for hints), but the concensus oprinion seems to be a cam with around 265-275 degrees duraation, about 0.450 lift, and a centerline seperation angle of about 106 degrees is a pretty good candidate.
This assumes you have around 9-9.5:1 compression and a single 4bbl of around 600 CFM.

Edited by DeSotohead 2005-11-07 8:27 AM
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Dodgetwin
Posted 2005-11-08 11:14 AM (#43082 - in reply to #42961)
Subject: RE: camshaft for 318 poly?


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Posts: 21

I had a cam ground for me by Neilson Cams, in Farmington Utah. It is a 264 duration cam, and it works great with a 4 barrel carb and upgraded ignition. I also changed from solid lifters to hydraulic, and he has the custom pushrods for this switch, as well as new double roller timing chains. He can grind any profile you want, and is making new cams from new blanks for poly engines and older hemis. They are quite knowledgeable about cams for these engines, and if you tell him what you want to run it with, I am sure he can recommend a custom grind for you. The mail address is Neilson Cams, PO Box 416, Farmington, Utah, 84025. I think I have his phone number somewhere, if you need it let me know. The guy used to grind cams for early hemi engines in Salt Flat racers back in the late 50s, and is still at it today.
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Shaun
Posted 2005-11-09 10:51 PM (#43194 - in reply to #42961)
Subject: RE: camshaft for 318 poly?


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Posts: 72
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Location: Grass Valley CA
There is a good cam core on ebay right now that I'm selling cheap. I will also guarantee that the cam is a good core,or I will refund you the full amount + shipping,upon proof from the cam manufacturer that it is no good.
I pulled it out of my truck after 80,000 original miles and put in a new Racer Brown cam. Later. Shaun
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safetymike77
Posted 2005-11-12 12:02 AM (#43356 - in reply to #42961)
Subject: RE: camshaft for 318 poly?



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Get ahold of Gary Pavlovich. He is a good guy and will help you pick out what you need. He sells some awesome valve covers for our polys as well! Cam will cost you 125, plus core, I believe and will get to you fast.
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Ray Bell
Posted 2005-11-17 10:58 PM (#43790 - in reply to #42961)
Subject: RE: camshaft for 318 poly?



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Location: Dalveen, Queensland, Australia
You'll find Gary Pavlovich posts on the Yahoo groups Poly 318 forum. You will find it on google, but it's not all that easy!
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Ron
Posted 2006-01-14 9:03 PM (#48079 - in reply to #42961)
Subject: RE: camshaft for 318 poly?



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Posts: 202
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After more than 45 years of collecting and racing Mopar's take my word for it. Changing from 1/4 bbl carb manifold to another brand of 1/4 bbl manifold is not the way to get performance out of a Mopar. Changing the ignition or cam is not the thing to do if you want it to really run fast. If you want it to really run, then change the dumb 3.23, 3.31,3.36 rear end gears that might spin one back tire on the right side and go to a 3.91 rear gear and get s Sure Grip unit and it will bring you off the line like crazy compared to your stock rear. If you got money to burn or you are not going to drive the car all the time then go to a 4.56 Sure Grip rear end and brother just hang on. You will have to learn how to drive your car from a dead stop all over again. Wide Wide tires will really help you get some traction.

Ron Allyn Swartely
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Shaun
Posted 2006-01-14 9:14 PM (#48082 - in reply to #42961)
Subject: RE: camshaft for 318 poly?


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Posts: 72
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Location: Grass Valley CA
I agree that the stock poly 4bbl mani is as good as the only aftermarket option-the weiand,but disagree about the cam upgrade. The cam will give you a power curve and depending on the profile-anywhere you want it. It is best to match it with your compression,gears,tranny and induction and when properly matched-you will find HUGE gains.
I have a poly with a weiand 4 bbl mani,headers,dual exhaust,8.8-1 comp,3.91 Sure grip and I run a Racer Brown 226* @ .050 with .450 lift. It is in a truck and it does the 1/4 in the high 15's. I can't beat some rice burners though,so I am replacing it with a 440 built by your's truly-I am shooting for 450 hp. Shaun
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Knighty
Posted 2006-01-15 4:48 PM (#48131 - in reply to #42961)
Subject: RE: camshaft for 318 poly?



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Location: Victoria, AUSTRALIA
hanks everyone for there input.
at present the engine is stock - 2bbl carb and manifold.
I want ot purchase a 4B manifold from ebay or what ever, I was just curious
what performance that would have on the engine. Fuel economy would probably suffer.
and was hoping to obtain a bigger cam as suggested.

would there be much difference from 2b to 4 bl with stock cam??
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Shaun
Posted 2006-01-15 11:47 PM (#48163 - in reply to #42961)
Subject: RE: camshaft for 318 poly?


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Posts: 72
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Location: Grass Valley CA
You should get in contact with Ray Bell and his nephew(I think-not certain)Ben. They are in Australia as well,and are preparing a Phoenix for a race(don't know the details). Ben is a journeyman mechanic-he's already cut up several poly heads to find the limits of porting and is very knowledgeable concerning the poly motor. Ray Bell is your moderator. He is a good fellow(I've talked to him personally).
I am currently running a poly in an old D-100 truck. I know that the stocker heads flow very well,due to the short runners,small size(high velocity)and very good combustion chambers(polyspherical). If you plan on running a 4bbl,more than 550cfm,I suggest headers and at least a clean-up port/polish on your heads. I can do a professional job on a set I have and sell them to you(I am always trying to help).If you(or someone else) would just knock off the rough cast-it would help you.And the reason you need headers is,when you add more air in through the intake,you need more air escaping,more scavenging. I can also help you with headers-I custom made my own and your only other choice is TTI and they charge somewhere around $700. These are some block huggers that I did(I added some exhaust wrap). PM me if you need some extra help. Shaun
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66charger
Posted 2007-02-16 10:15 AM (#75024 - in reply to #42961)
Subject: RE: camshaft for 318 poly?


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Posts: 38
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You guys have a lot of good ideas, I'd like to add my imput. I've always found that when building a engine the components need to be matched to your driving needs. If you're racing, more radical cam, higher stall converter, rear end gears, etc. all of which give you a specific balanced package. The 318 is one of the better engines mopar ever built and has the advantage of good port design and flow as is and my idea of building mine to be a street cruiser is - stock compression and ports, 2x4 Fury manifold 450 to 500 cfm but with a progressive linkage - I would love to have headers but will probably use stock exhaust manifold with 2 1/2 pipes and turbo mufflers - Daytona Cams reground cam 254 duration, 445 lift with new lifters. - rear end gear of 3.23 to 3.55 (need to make it streetable and able to be driven on the interstate, yes its a compromise to give the best of both worlds) - I've found 9-l0 to l compression is a acceptable with today's gas as long as you keep the temperature at 160-170 degrees. Building this combo should yield a 18 mile per gal can and one that would run in the 15's at low 90mph in the quarter and yes, with the stock converter.

Bob
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christine
Posted 2007-03-01 3:21 PM (#76148 - in reply to #42961)
Subject: Re: camshaft for 318 poly?


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hi i have over the years built many car and motorcyle engines, in my opinion it all relates to money and how far u wish to go, when i raced motorcyles the first thing i would do was to improve the intake without actualy going inside the engine and then improve the exhaust, improve or adjust the ignition and most importantly corect the fueling acordingly, this would then give u much better than stock performance without going internaly, compared to manuafctors settings which have to be emsion friendly and can be restrictive, i apply the same points to a car engine, usualy change intake, a better carb, improve ignition, change exhaust etc and the fuel correctly, fueling correctly is very very important to bring all the engine components to work together efficiently and powerfully. after that u r going internal, such things as cams, squish, compression, swirl, porting balancing, ligher components, better interials, decking shot peening basicly a rework of the items u have already will provide a much better and responsive motor, then theres the aftermarket improvements ie cranks rods pistions heads valve sizes and so on, flywheel is also important as to the balance of the motor, but with all tuning comes heat, improvement in cooloing then becomes an issue, enlarged water ways, better water pump and rad etc, oil and water coolers to ensure optimum temperatures, then theres the transmission and rear axle, that usualy leads to an upgrade in brakes and supsension and the list goes on, the trick is to find a happy balance, in my personal choice i do stage one first as a must as it generaly has good gains, if ur going into the motor then a blueprint of the motors original parts along with the first stage provides me with a crisper motor thats not bent on breaking and provides long good life and performance, of course the choice is urs, but think of this, a motorcycle or car with better brakes and handling will always be better than a tuned motor. oh and to all the people who are hooked on bhp, dont be its torque that moves u, i build all engins with the best torque curve possible and then the bhp follows naturaly. terry christine
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