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1962 Chrysler Brake Drum Removal Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Brakes, Wheels and Tires | Message format |
Kenster |
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Member Posts: 6 | Any suggestions how to get the rear brake drum off? Looks like a sheer pin was jammed in the red circle area and there is no way to get it out. The area around the axle looks like a seal. Puller not working. Attachments ---------------- A6C6E0A0-6505-417E-B57C-285952100733.jpeg (110KB - 143 downloads) | ||
Shep |
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Expert Posts: 3393 Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | That axle end looks crushed, did you leave the nut on at the end of the threads to protect them? Try heat on the area around the outer end of the drum while the puller is tight, hit the end of the puller bolt with a baby sledge. | ||
ronbo97 |
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Expert Posts: 4036 Location: Connecticut | Kenster - 2022-06-25 5:28 PM Any suggestions how to get the rear brake drum off? Looks like a sheer pin was jammed in the red circle area and there is no way to get it out. The area around the axle looks like a seal. Puller not working. Are you using a tapered axle puller ? That's the only way to get the rear drums off. Here's what one looks like: (Tapered Axle Puller.JPG) Attachments ---------------- Tapered Axle Puller.JPG (40KB - 108 downloads) | ||
geoffs60 |
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Veteran Posts: 165 Location: christchurch New Zealand | Good luck if its a chinese puller, old USA made the best, avoid hitting the end of the bolt, you run the risk of splitting the carbon steel sliding block in the diff carrier. either use some heat and leave it for a while , i find just firmly hitting the end of the cross bar quite often releases the drum with the jarring it puts thru the puller. either way they can be tedious and time consuming, but they do come off.. Patience.. Geoff | ||
Kenster |
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Member Posts: 6 | Thanks for the suggestions. Plan to reverse the axle nut to protect the threads and use some heat and hit the end of the puller bolt. | ||
Kenster |
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Member Posts: 6 | Yes - thank you. | ||
Kenster |
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Member Posts: 6 | Thank you! Puller made in Tiawan. Great suggestions will give them a try, especially the cross bar. | ||
finsruskw |
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Expert Posts: 2289 Location: Eastern Iowa | Looks like a new axle is in order here now after that abuse. You didn't beat the crap outta that, did you?? The area you have in red is the drum keyway w/the key stock and has nothing to do with the cotter pin. The seal is in the brake back plate. Best to consult the FSM for doing this kinda stuff if you are un-informed. Will save you a lot of grief in the future. Good luck! Edited by finsruskw 2022-06-26 12:37 PM | ||
Kenster |
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Member Posts: 6 | Just acquired the car. Not sure what was done by the previous owner / mechanics. Some greasy dirt on the axle is making it look beat up. Threads are in fairly good shape. Thanks for your reply! | ||
ronbo97 |
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Expert Posts: 4036 Location: Connecticut | No Heat. Do NOT hit the end of the bolt directly. Hit the cross piece end while holding and pulling the other end in a clockwise direction. Ron | ||
Kenster |
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Member Posts: 6 | SUCCESS!!! Very much appreciated to all. Was originally my grandpa’s car who bought new. Secret was patience, torquing up a bit, leaving for an hour twice. Sound when it popped made the weekend! Edited by Kenster 2022-06-26 6:33 PM Attachments ---------------- 6F8F8D58-5805-4792-BFB0-AEBF6AE358E6.jpeg (93KB - 107 downloads) 155C1961-8F6F-4557-8C81-B1CBD4AA9A4F.jpeg (138KB - 107 downloads) | ||
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