|
 Attaching a down pipe to an exhaust manifold (56 Dodge D500)Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
| Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Engine, Exhaust, Fuel and Ignition | Message format |
56D500boy |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 9900     Location: Lower Mainland BC | . My car defeated me today.  I won't blame it totally, in fact I could just blame the guy who did my exhaust system 4 years. I would, but he dropped dead at home on his days off 3.5 years ago. He did a s**tty job fitting the old 1 7/8" downpipe to the new 2.25" system that I requested. Amongst other things, that has put a nasty twist on the system (left side) at the manifold to downpipe flange. That and the transmission shop had to drop the left exhaust to get the transmission cross member out and, in doing so, they buggered whatever was there holding the downpipe flange to the manifold. Not sure what was there then but now there are two bolts (7/16" x 14 (5/8" head)). When the transmission shop put things back together, they put in some cr@ppy generic gasket and it has been leaking a small bit since then. I ignored it for a year but this week I decided to finally fix the problem. Yesterday I disconnected the downpipe from the manifold and wired up the exhaust pipe so I could measure the opening diameter on the manifold and the center to center spacing of the bolts so I could order a new gasket (Walker 31367 is what I selected). Today, I got the gaskets (bought two for fun) and some Permatex Ultimat Copper Gasket maker. Come home. Clean up the bolts (with a 7/16" x 14 die). Clean off the manifold and exhaust pipe mating surfaces with a flat file (while lying on my back on the garage floor). Make sure that the bolts go all the way through the threaded holes in the manifold. Dry fit the Walker gasket with the downpipe and the two bolts. Snug them up nicely and then disassemble. Things are going as planned. (Little did I know) I then applied gasket maker to the manifold and both sides of the Walker gasket. Try to reassemble. A bit slippy now. Get one bolt started but could NOT get the second bolt started. Numerous tries. Tried lots of different things but NOPE. The threads on the second bolt would just not catch. Spent over an hour trying. Had to give up. Cold garage. Extreme frustration. Not sure what went wrong. The dry fit wasn't a big deal Tomorrow I am going buy some long 7/16" x 14 bolts and make them into either studs or temporary dowels so I can at least get the downpipe onto the manifold. Of course, first I will have to clean off all the gasket maker off the manifold and the down pipe flange. I will probably just use the second gasket and clean the one from today another day. I will slot the ends of the "studs/dowels" so I can install and remove them, if I feel like it (and go back to the bolts). I will buy some 7/16" x 14 flange nuts just in case. [shakes head] Edited by 56D500boy 2021-02-16 8:43 PM | ||
| |||
| 56D500boy |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 9900 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . So all through the evening meal (dinner? supper?), I'm thinking what did i do wrong and how easily can I fix it? After dinner, I start checking my photo library and I think of Steve B in Australia. Some time ago, Steve sent me photos of his exhaust system (it's a bit different because his 56 Custom Royal is a RHD). I find that photo and AH HA!! Originally they had bolts facing down with nuts, etc. at least on a poly. So I get on the old garage jacket and go out to the cold garage with my trusty but abused Sony digital camera and I stick it where I can't see. AH HA!! Yes, a bolt facing down and nuts, etc on my D500 engine too. At least now I know how to solve my problem (if I can find some nice bolts (a little longer that what I have been given by the transmission shop)): Steve's then mine: Edited by 56D500boy 2021-02-17 1:14 PM (SteveBs315PolyExhaustManifoldRHD.jpg) (56D500315DoubleRockerPassengerSideExhaustManifoldToDownPipeConnection.jpg) Attachments ----------------  SteveBs315PolyExhaustManifoldRHD.jpg (122KB - 164 downloads) 56D500315DoubleRockerPassengerSideExhaustManifoldToDownPipeConnection.jpg (190KB - 171 downloads) | ||
| |||
| 56D500boy |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 9900 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 56D500boy - 2021-02-16 5:39 PM Tomorrow I am going buy some long 7/16" x 14 bolts and make them into either studs or temporary dowels so I can at least get the downpipe onto the manifold. Of course, first I will have to clean off all the gasket maker off the manifold and the down pipe flange. I will probably just use the second gasket and clean the one from today another day. I will slot the ends of the "studs/dowels" so I can install and remove them, if I feel like it (and go back to the bolts). I will buy some 7/16" x 14 flange nuts just in case. 56D500boy - 2021-02-16 8:30 PM. Originally they had bolts facing down with nuts, etc. at least on a poly. So I get on the old garage jacket and go out to the cold garage with my trusty but abused Sony digital camera and I stick it where I can't see. AH HA!! Yes, a bolt facing down and nuts, etc on my D500 engine too. At least now I know how to solve my problem (if I can find some nice bolts (a little longer that what I have been given by the transmission shop)): Well, most of that came true today. I went to Lowes to buy bushings for the Power Brake (pedal) project and bolts and nuts for this exhaust issue. The bolts that I bought were Grade 8 7/16" x 14 x 1.5" long (the transmission shop had used 1" bolts and I thought that 1.5" would be enough). After taking a photo of where I had stopped in frustration yesterday, I dropped the downpipe by removing the single 7/16" x 14 x 1" bolt that I had gotten into the manifold yesterday. Then I tried the 1.5" bolts in the manifold holes, both up from the bottom (not the way that I wanted to end up but I just wanted to be sure that I could get the bolts all the way through the threaded holes in the manifold flange. Worked fine(ish). The forward one was a bit tough. Then I removed the 1.5" bolts and tried them from the top. NOPE. No go for different reasons. There isn't enough clearance between the manifold flange and the block to get a 1.5" bolt started in the rearward hole (which probably explains why the transmission shop used bolts up from the bottom). Despite having run the 1.5" bolt up from the bottom on the forward threaded hole, coming down from the top (there was enough clearance for 1.5" bolt at the forward hole) didn't work - the threads were too messed up (or just corroded). So a ran a 7/16" x 14 tap up from the bottom. That cleaned things up enough to get a 1.5" bolt started from the top. Then I discovered that the only way that I could turn the bolt in was with a 5/8" stubby wrench (not enough clearance for a 5/8" socket or a ratcheting wrench). Bit of a pain. I tried different ways of getting the 1.5" bolt started from the top of the rearward hole but there just isn't enough clearance. I have to conclude that, at the factory, the exhaust manifold was loaded with the bolts in the threaded flange holes *BEFORE* the manifolds were attached to the engine. This would explain why sometimes (all the time?) the exhaust manifold casting number is not the actual part number for the exhaust manifold in the parts books (if you add parts (e.g. bolts) to a casting the part number has to change from the casting number) I eventually conceded that I needed a different plan for the rearward hole. So I took the second 7/16" x 14 x 1.5" bolt into the house and cut off the hex head hit my Dremel and a Dremel cut-off wheel. Took some time because I found out that a Grade 8 is a tough bolt. Then I slotted one end and cleaned up the threads with a 7/16" x 14 die. Back out to the garage where I installed my new exhaust "stud" in the rearward threaded flange hole. Then I got the down pipe and gasket onto the "stud" at the rear and the bolt at the front and applied the Grade 8 7/16" x 14 nuts that I had bought with the bolts. Just finger tight with no lock washers for now. That is when I discovered that 1.5" bolts were not long enough. I will have to go to Lowes again and buy 2" bolts and try again tomorrow (Thurs). Photos from today, starting with where I left off yesterday (with just one 1" bolt in place): Edited by 56D500boy 2021-02-18 11:17 AM (56DodgeD500DriversSideDownPipeToExhaustManifold_WhereIQuitOnFeb16_2021.jpg) (56DodgeD500DriversSideDownPipeToExhaustManifold_RunningAOneInch7_16x14BoltThroughTheRearMostHole.jpg) (56DodgeD500DriversSideDownPipeToExhaustManifold_RunningAOneAndAHalfInch7_16x14BoltThroughTheRearMostHole.jpg) (56DodgeD500DriversSideDownPipeToExhaustManifold_RunningA7_16x14TapThroughTheFrontMostHole_1.jpg) (56DodgeD500DriversSideDownPipeToExhaustManifold_RunningA7_16x14TapThroughTheFrontMostHole_2.jpg) (56DodgeD500DriversSideDownPipeToExhaustManifold_WithAOneAndAHalfInch7_16x14BoltDownFromTheTop_FrontMostHole.jpg) (56DodgeD500DriversSideDownPipeToExhaustManifold_WithAHeadlessAOneAndAHalfInch7_16x14BoltUpFromTheBottome_RearMostHole.jpg) (56DodgeD500DriversSideDownPipeToExhaustManifold_WithStudInRearMostHoleAndBoltInFrontHole_Annotated.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 56DodgeD500DriversSideDownPipeToExhaustManifold_WhereIQuitOnFeb16_2021.jpg (179KB - 156 downloads) 56DodgeD500DriversSideDownPipeToExhaustManifold_RunningAOneInch7_16x14BoltThroughTheRearMostHole.jpg (141KB - 160 downloads) 56DodgeD500DriversSideDownPipeToExhaustManifold_RunningAOneAndAHalfInch7_16x14BoltThroughTheRearMostHole.jpg (159KB - 159 downloads) 56DodgeD500DriversSideDownPipeToExhaustManifold_RunningA7_16x14TapThroughTheFrontMostHole_1.jpg (166KB - 158 downloads) 56DodgeD500DriversSideDownPipeToExhaustManifold_RunningA7_16x14TapThroughTheFrontMostHole_2.jpg (117KB - 164 downloads) 56DodgeD500DriversSideDownPipeToExhaustManifold_WithAOneAndAHalfInch7_16x14BoltDownFromTheTop_FrontMostHole.jpg (129KB - 160 downloads) 56DodgeD500DriversSideDownPipeToExhaustManifold_WithAHeadlessAOneAndAHalfInch7_16x14BoltUpFromTheBottome_RearMostHole.jpg (135KB - 151 downloads) 56DodgeD500DriversSideDownPipeToExhaustManifold_WithStudInRearMostHoleAndBoltInFrontHole_Annotated.jpg (146KB - 165 downloads) | ||
| |||
| 56D500boy |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 9900 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 56D500boy - 2021-02-17 11:20 PM Then I got the down pipe and gasket onto the "stud" at the rear and the bolt at the front and applied the Grade 8 7/16" x 14 nuts that I had bought with the bolts. Just finger tight with no lock washers for now. That is when I discovered that 1.5" bolts were not long enough. I will have to go to Lowes again and buy 2" bolts and try again tomorrow (Thurs). Went to Lowes. Turns out that you can't buy a fully threaded 2" long 7/16" x 14 bolts (there is a shoulder). So I bought two cheap partially threaded ones and tried to fully thread them at home. NOPE. FAIL. After lunch I called ahead and went to one of our best nuts and bolts houses (Pacific Fasteners) and bought a 6 ft stick of 7/16" x 14 threaded stainless steel rod (and nuts and lock washers). Got it home and cut two pieces 2.5" long. Slotted one end for a screw driver and then installed them, one at a time (finger tight for now). I didn't install the gasket or the lock washers at this point. Just trialing. 2.5" isn't much too long. I will probably remove these "studs" tomorrow and make the exposed ends prettier with the Dremel (they look like cr@p right now). I also trimmed that Walker 31367 to the proper shape (I hope). We'll see tomorrow. Some photos from today: Edited by 56D500boy 2021-02-19 2:21 AM (56DodgeD500DriversSideExhaustManifold_RearWardStudFrom716-14ThreadedRod_RoomForLockWashersAndGasket.jpg) (56DodgeD500DriversSideExhaustManifold_RearStudFrom716-14ThreadedRod_ForwardWithBoltFromTop.jpg) (56DodgeD500DriversSideExhaustManifold_ForwardStudFrom716-14ThreadedRod_RoomForLockWashersAndGasket.jpg) (56DodgeD500DriversSideExhaustManifold_FrontAndRearStudsFrom716-14ThreadedRod_RoomForGasketAndLockWashers.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 56DodgeD500DriversSideExhaustManifold_RearWardStudFrom716-14ThreadedRod_RoomForLockWashersAndGasket.jpg (124KB - 160 downloads) 56DodgeD500DriversSideExhaustManifold_RearStudFrom716-14ThreadedRod_ForwardWithBoltFromTop.jpg (137KB - 156 downloads) 56DodgeD500DriversSideExhaustManifold_ForwardStudFrom716-14ThreadedRod_RoomForLockWashersAndGasket.jpg (137KB - 155 downloads) 56DodgeD500DriversSideExhaustManifold_FrontAndRearStudsFrom716-14ThreadedRod_RoomForGasketAndLockWashers.jpg (163KB - 153 downloads) | ||
| |||
| 56D500boy |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 9900 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . After spending more that an hour on my back, scraping and sanding the Ultra Copper (from the other day's failed attempt) off the manifold flange and downpipe flange, I reinstalled the "new" 2.25" stainless studs and dry trialed the trimmed Walker 31367 gasket. Happy with what I saw, I disassembled everything (leaving the studs) and ran two 3/32 beads of Ultra Copper around both sides of the center metal gasket ring. Then I very carefully re-installed the gasket over the studs and stuck it to the manifold flange while I maneuvered the downpipe onto the studs. I had to pull the studs out a bit more (with a screw driver in the slots that I Dremelled in yesterday). Then I applied flange nuts to the bottom side of the studs and nuts and lock washers on the top (the studs are long enough - on purpose - to do that). However after tightening the nuts on the rearward stud, I decided to remove the forward stud to see if I could install the 1.5" Grade 8 bolt instead. That worked, even enough poking through the top to add a somewhat redundant flange nut on the top. (I have stainless lock washer under the head of the Grade 8 bolt). I tightened things a bit and then backed things off to let the Ultra Copper cure overnight. Tomorrow I will torque everything to within an inch (mm) of their lives. Then I will start the engine and hope like living h3LL that the exhaust leak is gone. If it isn't I will just laugh (at myself - for trying). Today: (56DodgeD500DoubleRockerDriversSideExhaustManifoldToDownPipe_RearwardStudAndDoubleNuts_Forward1point5inchGrade8Bolt_Annotated.jpg) (56DodgeD500DoubleRockerDriversSideExhaustManifoldToDownPipe_RearwardStudAndDoubleNuts.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 56DodgeD500DoubleRockerDriversSideExhaustManifoldToDownPipe_RearwardStudAndDoubleNuts_Forward1point5inchGrade8Bolt_Annotated.jpg (165KB - 152 downloads) 56DodgeD500DoubleRockerDriversSideExhaustManifoldToDownPipe_RearwardStudAndDoubleNuts.jpg (169KB - 153 downloads) | ||
| |||
| Steve1956 |
| ||
Regular Posts: 81  | |||
| |||
| 56D500boy |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 9900 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Steve1956 - 2021-02-20 1:58 AM Good luck tomorrow Dave. I have been following, and share your pain with things going wrong...I had a 35 Desoto that did that to me with everything I tried to fix over 27 years...sold it to buy the 56 Dodge Custom Royal now under restoration. I think things will go better for me with this car following the many tips I have picked up reading about your repairs / upgrades. Steve B, Australia. Thanks Steve. I'm always willing to share both the good and the bad as I work through the big and little things that need (some) improvement on my 56 Dodge. Hopefully, others can learn from both my successes and failures. Typically, I never actually fail but it might take a lot of work to "win". (All of my stuff is small potatoes compared to many others, like those creating a 59 Dodge Convertible from a 64 880 convertible, so I know that most of my projects are trivial in the big picture).  Nevertheless, there aren't too many folks actively working on the last of the king-pin orphan 55-56 Mopars here so, in my opinion, any information about them (good and bad) is better than no information.  | ||
| |||
| 56D500boy |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 9900 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Okay. The FL is back. Thanks to however fixed the problem. I got my driver's side exhaust manifold to downpipe exhaust leak fixed. Everything that I documented above seems to have done the trick. All I did today was to tighten up the bolt and the nuts on the stud (and the top of the bolt). I used the GUTENTITE procedure. No more annoying ticking leak (at least for the moment). Sounds great. Now to get back to the Power Brake project (I bought some bushings while I was at Lowes getting bolts and stuff for this exhaust project). Now to make the bushings work. | ||
| |||
| 56D500boy |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 9900 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . I am picking up new downpipes made by Waldron on Tuesday. The existing left side should come apart fairly easily, given I was "just" there. The right side, not so much - probably never been off the manifold in 67 plus years. I started spraying the nuts with Liquid Wrench two days ago and today using my 1/2" 90 deg Milwaukee 12V impact wrench and 5/8" impact socket, I got the nut off the forward bolt (while holding the bolt head with a 5/8" wrench). So that is a start. However, I cannot get a socket and ratchet of any kind on the rearward bolt and nut, only box head 5/8" wrenches (the curve of the downpipe blocks access to a ratchet). Even with the fender liner inspection panel off, I can NOT get enough purchase to turn the nut off with just wrenches. Open to suggestions, including heat. This is the one that is giving me grief now: A photo of the attachment taken before I got the forward nut off: Edited by 56D500boy 2024-04-08 2:51 AM (RightManifoldToDownPipe_small.jpg) Attachments ---------------- RightManifoldToDownPipe_small.jpg (117KB - 14 downloads) | ||
| |||
| 22mafeja |
| ||
Elite Veteran Posts: 651 Location: Finland | |||
| |||
| wizard |
| ||
Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13049  Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | |||
| |||
| mstrug |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 6500 Location: Newark, Texas (Fort Worth) | |||
| |||
| 56D500boy |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 9900 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Thanks for the comments and hints guys. Got the nut off just now, but not with the hints. Brute force (and luck). After my Healthy Heart exercise group this AM, I stopped by my closest Home Depot to look for Grade 8 7/16" x 20 hex head cap screws (none). While I was wondering my way to the washroom (medium McD's coffee after Healthy Heart), I passed by a display of a set of 19 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" socket extensions, adapters and universal swivels. A light bulb went on "DING"! When I got home and changed to garage clothes, I put the longest 1/2" extension together with a 1/2" swivel universal and a 5/8" impact socket. Once I figured out how to get the socket on the stuck nut, I added my 90 deg impact wrench to the extension and put a 5/8" box end wrench on the top of the bolt. Then I started working the impact - tightening and loosening, back and forth, forth and back until the nut finally came loose. Yay. Tomorrow I will find out whether the Waldron's 315 poly down pipes are compatible with the 315 D500 hemi manifolds. In the meantime, I chased the 7/16 x 20 threads in the nuts put the nuts into a rust removal bath. Edited by 56D500boy 2024-04-08 3:45 PM (Husky19PieceExtensionAndAdapterKit.jpg) (Milwaukee90DegHalfInchImpactWith12inchHuskyExtensionAndSwiveAnd5_8thsImpactSocket.jpg) (56DodgeD500EngineRightSideExhaustDownpipe_NutsRemoved.jpg) (56DodgeD500EngineRightSideExhaustDownpipe_NutsRemoved_Detail.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Husky19PieceExtensionAndAdapterKit.jpg (165KB - 13 downloads) Milwaukee90DegHalfInchImpactWith12inchHuskyExtensionAndSwiveAnd5_8thsImpactSocket.jpg (174KB - 17 downloads) 56DodgeD500EngineRightSideExhaustDownpipe_NutsRemoved.jpg (183KB - 13 downloads) 56DodgeD500EngineRightSideExhaustDownpipe_NutsRemoved_Detail.jpg (139KB - 13 downloads) | ||
| |||
| Powerflite |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 9663 Location: So. Cal | |||
| |||
| 56D500boy |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 9900 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . I hear you Nathan but I will try the "OE style" Waldron's downpipes first. If they fit on the D500 manifolds, they can become the templates for larger diameter downpipes. At present, downstream of the OE D500 downpipes I had a 2.25" system made and installed back in 2017 so plenty of breathing potential there. In my younger days, when I was into "hotrodding" (er, "tuning") water-cooled VW 4 cylinders (think early GTIs) , I port-matched a "Big Valve" head and the 4-into-2-into-1 header that I bought ahead of a German tuner's exhaust system. So, I have BTDT a bit. When I was out in the garage playing with the Scarebird brackets and the new Grade 8 7/16 x 20 x 1.5" bolts, I managed to sneak the rear OE bolt out of the manifold flange and a Grade 8 bolt in (for fun). However, I am not confident that the forward bolt will come out (due to clearance issues). This: Edited by 56D500boy 2024-04-08 11:04 PM (RightManifoldToDownPipe_NutsOff_OneOEBoltReplacedWithGrade8Bolt.jpg) Attachments ---------------- RightManifoldToDownPipe_NutsOff_OneOEBoltReplacedWithGrade8Bolt.jpg (152KB - 12 downloads) | ||
| |||
| 56D500boy |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 9900 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Picked up the Waldron's downpipes today. Pretty sure that the are going to fit my car's D500 exhaust manifolds just fine. My intent is to figure out where to connect these 1 15/16" O.D. pipes to my 2 1/4" O.D. system (from 2017) so that they can be disconnected at the joining point in order to facilitate removal of the transmission cross-member without having to drop the exhaust system at the manifold(s) like the transmission shop did in 2024. Not exactly sure why the right side is in two parts. No biggy (I guess (???)) Edited by 56D500boy 2024-04-09 9:24 PM (Waldrons56Dodge315V8Downpipes_EndToEnd.jpg) (Waldrons56Dodge315V8Downpipes_SideBySide.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Waldrons56Dodge315V8Downpipes_EndToEnd.jpg (245KB - 13 downloads) Waldrons56Dodge315V8Downpipes_SideBySide.jpg (114KB - 12 downloads) | ||
| |||
| 56D500boy |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 9900 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . While I am working on the right front brake conversion, I think that I will take advantage of the space that has be created to add the Waldron's down pipe and at least part of the extension to my 2.25" system. I intend to just butt the downpipe to the 2.25" pipe using a Walker 33974 lap joint band clamp incorrectly. The photo below shows a one size larger 33975 clamp that I had "in stock" and tried yesterday. It was too big at both ends. The 33974 should be better. Too cold and damp to play in the garage today (probably - see what I feel like after coffee at 3 PM) Edited by 56D500boy 2024-04-11 5:31 PM (RightSideDownPipeToNew2point25System.jpg) (OE56DodgeDownPipeWithNew2point25PipeAndWalker33975.jpg) Attachments ---------------- RightSideDownPipeToNew2point25System.jpg (241KB - 13 downloads) OE56DodgeDownPipeWithNew2point25PipeAndWalker33975.jpg (112KB - 13 downloads) | ||
| |||
| 56D500boy |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 9900 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Well the Walker 33974 won't work. It fits on the OE and Waldron's 2" downpipes but it won't fit on the 2.25" system (too tight). And the 33975 (the next size up) is too big for both sizes. On that basis, I am going to try a Walker 41700 reducer that is *supposed to be* for 2" OD to 2.25" OD. I will get one tomorrow. (They say) Two things: 1. The OE down pipe wasn't terrible. At least the manufacturer back then knew about Mandrel pipe bends. I might decide to keep it in service. (??) 2. Never thought of this but I tried the Waldron's downpipe and extension on the manifold and *SUDDENLY* (Dun, Dun, DAH) I became aware of the idler arm and potential interference between the downpipe and the idler arm (this must have been true with the OE pipe too, I just never noticed). Some photos from today: (NewWaldrons56Dodge315PolyRightDownPipeVsOldOED500_2.jpg) (NewWaldrons56Dodge315PolyRightDownPipeVsOldOED500_Detail_1.jpg) (NewWaldrons56Dodge315PolyRightDownPipeVsOldOED500_Detail_2.jpg) (NewWaldrons56Dodge315PolyRightDownPipeLooselyAttachedToD500ExhaustManifold.jpg) (NewWaldrons56Dodge315PolyRightDownPipeAndExtensionShowingProximityToIdlerArm.jpg) (Walker41700Reducer.jpg) (Walker41700Reducer_Details.jpg) Attachments ---------------- NewWaldrons56Dodge315PolyRightDownPipeVsOldOED500_2.jpg (180KB - 15 downloads) NewWaldrons56Dodge315PolyRightDownPipeVsOldOED500_Detail_1.jpg (243KB - 8 downloads) NewWaldrons56Dodge315PolyRightDownPipeVsOldOED500_Detail_2.jpg (167KB - 10 downloads) NewWaldrons56Dodge315PolyRightDownPipeLooselyAttachedToD500ExhaustManifold.jpg (117KB - 9 downloads) NewWaldrons56Dodge315PolyRightDownPipeAndExtensionShowingProximityToIdlerArm.jpg (119KB - 9 downloads) Walker41700Reducer.jpg (56KB - 9 downloads) Walker41700Reducer_Details.jpg (47KB - 9 downloads) | ||
| |||
| 56D500boy |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 9900 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Not a good day. I ordered the 41700 yesterday (Friday) but when I picked it up today (Sat), I measured it and sadly realized that I had F*d up. I want a reducer with 2.25" ID and 2.0" ID, not OD. D'oh!! By the time I figured out the correct number, 41952, the warehouses were closed for the weekend. So now I have to wait until Monday. Oh well. What I should have ordered yesterday: Edited by 56D500boy 2024-04-14 11:34 AM (Walker41952Reducer_Details.jpg) (Walker41952Reducer.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Walker41952Reducer_Details.jpg (35KB - 9 downloads) Walker41952Reducer.jpg (49KB - 7 downloads) | ||
| |||
| 22mafeja |
| ||
Elite Veteran Posts: 651 Location: Finland | |||
| |||
| 56D500boy |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 9900 Location: Lower Mainland BC | 22mafeja - 2024-04-13 11:16 PM Welll I have never attached an aftermarket exhaust system without cutting and welding a little..because of that I often just have bought components and fitted and welded every bend. Ralf: I have had good luck in the past with aftermarket exhaust systems for German cars, e.g. Leistritz (German) and Techtonics Tuning (USA) for water-cooled VWs's, i.e. 1980 and 1986 Jettas. Waldron's are new to me but my expectations were high. I understand that people more skilled that I can put together a system with pre-Mandrel-bent components and end up with something good. However, so far, that is NOT me. Edited by 56D500boy 2024-04-14 7:44 PM | ||
| |||
| 22mafeja |
| ||
Elite Veteran Posts: 651 Location: Finland | |||
| |||
| 56D500boy |
| ||
Expert 5K+ Posts: 9900 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Ralf: Got it. Here is probably the best I am going to get without a lot of $work$. The Walker 41952 2.25" ID x 2.00" ID reducer in action with the new Waldron's downpipe and my existing "2017" 2.25" system: (The alignment is not good and there isn't much "give" in the reducer. Might need a big(ger) hammer. Edited by 56D500boy 2024-04-15 9:02 PM (41952OnThePipes_1.jpg) (41952OnThePipes_2.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 41952OnThePipes_1.jpg (119KB - 8 downloads) 41952OnThePipes_2.jpg (89KB - 6 downloads) | ||
| |||
| Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] |
| Search this forum Printer friendly version E-mail a link to this thread |
| (Delete all cookies set by this site) | |
