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I can't get the output shaft seal protector out 57 Dodge Suburban 325 Torqueflte Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
Forward Look Technical Discussions -> Transmission and Rear Axle | Message format |
jaded13640 |
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Veteran Posts: 295 | I'm rebuilding the old tired tranny and I'm finding it difficult, actually impossible, to get that dome thing off the extension housing. At first I just wanted to be able to remove and sandblast the brake backing plate but now it looks like it might have to come off to change the rear seal. I've removed all the clips and drove out the cross pin and brake anchor pin but I can't get the brake backing plate and that dome looking thing to come off. I've used a deadblow hammer as hard as I could hit it without bending the backing plate so I'm fresh out of ideas. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Wayne | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . I think the "dome thing" is the grease shield. It is held on by a "U"-shaped spring clip. (?) (57DodgeHandBrakeDiagram.jpg) (57DodgeHandBrakeAssemblyRemoval.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 57DodgeHandBrakeDiagram.jpg (128KB - 207 downloads) 57DodgeHandBrakeAssemblyRemoval.jpg (198KB - 198 downloads) | ||
jaded13640 |
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Veteran Posts: 295 | Yea, I've got that spring thing off but the dome part is stuck on there really well, I tried to pry it with a screwdriver but it wasn't budging and I didn't want to ruin it. I have that info from the service manual too. I just can't get it off. What I thought happens is if you can't get the dome off removing the entire backing plate will take it off but evidently you HAVE to get that dome off first. SO, with the spring off and it still being stuck on there really tight, what are my options that won't destroy anything? Heat it a little maybe? Thanks, Wayne PS, I have this linked to my phone so I get notifications right away when someone replies. | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | jaded13640 - 2020-10-20 4:13 PM Yea, I've got that spring thing off but the dome part is stuck on there really well, I tried to pry it with a screwdriver but it wasn't budging and I didn't want to ruin it. I have that info from the service manual too. I just can't get it off. What I thought happens is if you can't get the dome off removing the entire backing plate will take it off but evidently you HAVE to get that dome off first. Wayne: I am "lucky" (!!??) enough to have an Auto Trans (Powerflite) loose in my garage and since I had to move the old Dodge back anyway (to move my compressor closer to a project beside the garage), I took the opportunity to investigate the grease shield (the "dome thing"). The tail piece on these auto transmissions is aluminum. The grease shield is thin steel. So what might be happening for you is Galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals. My backing plate and grease shield were both off the tail piece so I installed the backing plate (big rubber gasket that is very tight to the tail piece and that big reaction pin) and then the grease shield. The grease shield is mostly held to the tail piece by friction. I had to bang it on with a block of wood (2 x 4) and a hammer until I had the slot in the grease shield lined up with the groove in the tail piece. Then I added the spring clip and took a photo of the assembly. Then I removed the spring clip and pried the grease shield off the tail piece. It took some effort but there was no corrosion. And took a photo. Then I removed the backing plate and took another photo. I think you need to spray some PB Blaster or Moovit or Liquid Wrench up inside the grease shield where the grease shield steel contacts the tail piece aluminum. Then maybe some minor tapping with a hammer on the outside and then some more spray. Give it some time and a bit more tapping, then try prying the grease shield off. PS: I see now that I didn't have the grease shield properly located (i.e. the slots in the shield need to be on the sides, vertical, not horizontal). But the idea and results for this test would be the same. Edited by 56D500boy 2020-10-20 11:36 PM (AutoTransEBrakeBackingPlateWithGreaseShieldlAndSpringClipInPlace.jpg) (AutoTransEBrakeBackingPlateWithSpringClipAndGreaseShieldRemoved.jpg) (AutoTransEBrakeBackingPlateWithSpringClipAndGreaseShieldAndBackingPlateRemovedShowingGroovesForSpringClips.jpg) Attachments ---------------- AutoTransEBrakeBackingPlateWithGreaseShieldlAndSpringClipInPlace.jpg (113KB - 198 downloads) AutoTransEBrakeBackingPlateWithSpringClipAndGreaseShieldRemoved.jpg (118KB - 207 downloads) AutoTransEBrakeBackingPlateWithSpringClipAndGreaseShieldAndBackingPlateRemovedShowingGroovesForSpringClips.jpg (127KB - 206 downloads) | ||
jaded13640 |
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Veteran Posts: 295 | YEP! That's exactly what the deal was, corrosion because of the dissimilar metals. I sprayed and came back to it quite a few times. All I was really accomplishing was distorting the dome. I put some heat to it, just propane, and it pried right off. I would send some pics but, for some reason, my computer doesn't "see" any photos on my phone. I'll use my camera and take a few more and, if it will let me, post them. Mainly I just want to show how much damage I did to the base of the cone during the prying process. I have since polished the heck out of the diameter of the extension housing. I was surprised just how much rust had actually penetrated the surface of the aluminum. But I suspect I may need a new output shaft bearing. It doesn't sound like gravel is in there, it mostly just sounds dry. I don't feel any roughness to speak of when I rotate the bearing with my hand. I'm going to use some very light oil, like "3 - in -1" oil maybe and if it doesn't smooth out completely I'll have to start researching how to get a new one-IF they're even available. The manual you show there is the one I downloaded sometime back. It gives you the part numbers of any special tools it calls for, that I have not actually needed so far, but no part numbers for the parts in the transmission. It seems like wear items like bearing would have a part number listing in the manual, but, it doesn't. Do you know what the part number is for the output shaft/extension housing bearing? Thanks, Wayne | ||
jaded13640 |
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Veteran Posts: 295 | Here's some pictures, IF they're not too big to upload....let's test it out. Here it goes.... | ||
jaded13640 |
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Veteran Posts: 295 | Here's some pictures, IF they're not too big to upload....let's test it out. Here it goes.... It didn't work, the file is too big. I'll have to mess with it later. SON OF A B...isquit! | ||
jaded13640 |
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Veteran Posts: 295 | jkhg (IMG_20201021_184029.jpg) Attachments ---------------- IMG_20201021_184029.jpg (162KB - 205 downloads) | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9855 Location: Lower Mainland BC | jaded13640 - 2020-10-21 2:57 PM. Do you know what the part number is for the output shaft/extension housing bearing? You should probably learn how to use the 55-58 Mopar Parts Catalog pdf. (Hints are found here: http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=66548&... ) The PN for the bearing is 1672 194. Also used in the Powerflite, 3 spd std transmissions and the A-833 4 spds This is not the first time that this has come up. http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=45761 For example: Phil_the_frenchie - 2013-03-02 1:30 PM I found this Mopar # 1736432 SNAP RING, Ext. Brg., w/Short Extension 1672194 BEARING, Ext., w/Short Extension NAPA# Item#: BRG6207VSP55 Price: $50+ Additional Contents:Ball I.D.:1.3780" O.D.:2.8346" Width:0.6693" The message came from a Ramcharger forum and about a 74 Torqueflite ! I found also SKF 6207VSP55 Napa BRG 6207VSP55: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BRG6207VSP55 SKF 6207VSP55: https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/skf,6207VSP55,output+shaft+bearing... Here are the six steps that I use to find parts: 1. Find the diagram in the parts catalog and locate the part reference number (36 in this case) 2. Find the section that the part is in (21-05-2 in this case) 3. Go to that section and find the part number (PN) (1672 194 in this case) 4. Search the internet with Google with the seven digit PN (but no spaces) and rough description ("1672194 tail shaft bearing") 5. Review the sources that Google comes up with (including eBay) https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-d&q=1672194+tail+shaf... including: http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.php?prod=B194 6. Pick the best deal (price, availability and shipping) for you and buy the part Edited by 56D500boy 2020-10-22 11:18 AM (TorqueFliteOutputShaftBearing_ExplodedPartsDiagram_Item36.jpg) (TorqueFliteOutputShaftBearing_Item36_Section21-05-2.jpg) (TorqueFliteOutputShaftBearing_PN1672194.jpg) Attachments ---------------- TorqueFliteOutputShaftBearing_ExplodedPartsDiagram_Item36.jpg (180KB - 198 downloads) TorqueFliteOutputShaftBearing_Item36_Section21-05-2.jpg (186KB - 197 downloads) TorqueFliteOutputShaftBearing_PN1672194.jpg (180KB - 202 downloads) | ||
jaded13640 |
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Veteran Posts: 295 | Wow bro, THANK YOU! That's awesome and I didn't even know it was there. Thanks for pointing me to it. I will download all that stuff now that I know how to save it so that I don't have to open it as a pdf file every time. Is that the same as downloading the service manuals? It downloads, you open it, save it and then delete the first one. Is that how these work too? Again, thanks But I've got a bigger problem, I started another thread. the throttle valve stop screw was loose. The jam not wasn't tight so it had loosened. I'm really hoping someone knows how to set it because the service manual just says it can't be done. That's scary when the manual says, "it cannot be reset with field equipment". Help! LOL Wayne | ||
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