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1957 Dodge brake shoe return springs. Jump to page : 1 Now viewing page 1 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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local2Ed |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 580 | Do the brake shoe return springs ever need to be replaced or has anybody ever experienced a problem with the springs not retracting the shoes that was fixed by using new springs? The reason I ask is on my 1957 Dodge Sierra I put a dual pot master cylinder on it and It seems that the front brakes are not retracting all the way and heating up. The car has new hard lines,hoses,wheel cylinders, master cylinder,relined shoes,wheel bearings, about the only thing that hasn't been changed is the springs. I thought I had a defective master cylinder that was bought new so that has been changed. This car has been a slow going project and I never have driven it using the original master cylinder so I can't say if the problem was there before changing to a dual master cylinder. I get good flow out of the bleeders so I don't think there is any obstructions. I've seen some new springs on e-bay for about $100.00, don't recall if that was for all four wheels or two. Is that the only place to get these? Thanks. | ||
57chizler |
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Expert Posts: 3775 Location: NorCal | Be sure there is a gap (at least .020") between the end of the MC pushrod and the MC piston. If there is no gap, the rear piston might not fully return and this traps pressure in the front fluid circuit. | ||
56D500boy |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9899 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Assuming that your 57 Dodge wagon has 11" brakes (you didn't say), the front return springs should be PN 1674 078 and the rears 1674 060. Searching for "1674078 Front brake return springs" turns up few hits, including a complete front/back NOS package for US$64: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1957-1958-Plymouth-Dodge-Brake-Return-Sprin... or just the fronts for $27: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1957-1958-Plymouth-Dodge-Front-Brake-Retu... (ignore the ebay.uk bit - they are in West Newton, Massachusetts) | ||
local2Ed |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 580 | 57chizler - 2020-09-17 12:47 PM Be sure there is a gap (at least .020") between the end of the MC pushrod and the MC piston. If there is no gap, the rear piston might not fully return and this traps pressure in the front fluid circuit. One of the first things I thought of was the gap between pushrod and MC piston and it is correct. Thanks. | ||
local2Ed |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 580 | 56D500boy, thanks for the info on the springs. I ordered the full set. Don't know where I came up with the $100.00 figure, probably too many late night parts searches. The front brakes are 11"x 2.5". Edited by local2Ed 2020-09-18 8:34 AM | ||
local2Ed |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 580 | Thought I would update this thread that I forgot about. I ordered the new springs and as I was waiting for their delivery I remembered that when I had the brake shoes religned the shop said the thickness that they put on was slightly thicker than the thickness I told them I wanted but I felt it was small enough not to be a problem. I was wrong. Before replacing the return springs I removed the shoes and removed 1/32" off the brake linings and put it back together. The brakes now adjusted out fine with no rubbing to overheat using the exisiting brake springs not the new. It seems that little extra thickness was rubbing slightly on the drums, not enough to notice when spinning by hand during adjustment but enough to heat up when driving any distance. I've had those shoes on for a couple years but because it took me that long to put this car on the road the small amount I drove it just moving it around wasn't enough to heat the brakes up. Edited by local2Ed 2021-02-25 9:55 AM | ||
Mr. Bob |
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Regular Posts: 66 Location: Ferndale, WA 98248 | Glad that worked for you. I had issues with the right front locking up in my 57 Dodge, that new springs cured. | ||
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