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 Rose / White '56 Belvedere 2dr HardtopJump to page : 1 2 3 Now viewing page 3 [50 messages per page] | View previous thread :: View next thread |
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Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420   Location: So. Cal | |||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | I was able to find an NOS tissue dispenser No. 1692600 for a decent price and picked it up. I figure that it would go well with this Belvedere, being from the '56 model year. But I won't mount it until we're actually using the car to prevent it from sitting outside needlessly. I included a photo of the instructions for reference. (1692600 Tissue Dispenser.jpg) (1692600 Tissue Dispenser Instructions.jpg) Attachments ----------------  1692600 Tissue Dispenser.jpg (135KB - 439 downloads) 1692600 Tissue Dispenser Instructions.jpg (117KB - 422 downloads) | ||
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| mikes2nd |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 5163  | |||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | |||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | I just realized that this car was originally painted just like the car on the cover of the user's manual. Pretty cool. (56Plym Manual Cover-s.jpg) (56Plym Belvedere Coupe Postcard.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 56Plym Manual Cover-s.jpg (130KB - 384 downloads) 56Plym Belvedere Coupe Postcard.jpg (128KB - 409 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10849  Location: Lower Mainland BC | Powerflite - 2023-01-08 4:15 PM I just realized that this car was originally painted just like the car on the cover of the user's manual. Pretty cool. Back in 2020 when you first got the car you said: "PT: 680 (Briar Rose body, Jet Black roof/Sport tone)" I wonder why the black bits got painted white and when?  | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | I think someone just wanted a more powder puff pink car with white, rather than black at some point. But I'm going to put it back to original eventually. The cheap spray cans that I used to color match my repairs to the rear window area have fully oxidized, along with the rest of the original paint. So now it's really impossible to tell that there was ever a repair done in that area.  (Pink 56Belv Oxidized Paint.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Pink 56Belv Oxidized Paint.jpg (137KB - 369 downloads) | ||
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | I purchased a '66 B-body rear from John Fowlie a couple years ago. I decided to take it apart an prepare it to go into this car along with a push-button 727 to replace the powerflite with a dead 2nd gear. I was surprised to find that the 3.23 gears & differential gears were quite rusty, but I didn't find evidence of any water inside the axle. I suppose that the gear was cleaned and installed, and then not run before it sat outside in a humid area for many years. Anyway, the gears are likely junk. No matter, I have a great set of 2.76 gears I want to put into it instead. I hope the axle bearings are stlll good. They *seem* to be OK, but I'll find out once I start to run around in it. At least I will clean, inspect and grease them very well before I button it up. (Pink 56 Belvedere 8.75 b-body axle.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Pink 56 Belvedere 8.75 b-body axle.jpg (179KB - 210 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | I went to start this car to drive it onto my driveway, only to find that the brand new/old stock fuel pump that I put onto it 4 years ago, that just sat there this whole time, is now junk. Dealing with fuel issues (in the tank, pump, & carburetor) is one of the most painful parts of working on project cars. The alcohol in the fuel we have today is really hard on these parts if it just sits there. So I rigged up an electric fuel pump on my Jerry can so I don't have to deal with that anymore. There is a 5/16" steel line that goes into the side of it and screws into the end of the pump. Hopefully this will work to push fuel past the pump that's already there. For the electrical connection, I sandwich the ground wire into the negative lug of the battery. I attach the power wire using a heavy duty alligator clip to the + side of the coil. Going to the trouble to attach it with a proper lug was too much trouble. I just have to make sure that the alligator clip isn't going to short on anything. I tried it out today and it worked perfectly! The only problem is that it looks like the brakes rusted a little and the transmission couldn't overcome them. So I put it in neutral, revved it up and punched it into reverse. That broke it free and I had no troubles after that. Edited by Powerflite 2025-07-14 8:18 PM (Electric Fuel Can.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Electric Fuel Can.jpg (176KB - 169 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | I use this type of fixture to weld the new spring pads at the same pinion angle as the original B-body location. The aluminum plate is required to bring the new pad up to the same height as the old one. It's a lot more work when you have to use the original spring pads because it's impossible to get them perfectly even. So you have to be much more careful when you set it up to tack in place. Fortunately, it's easy to try again by cutting the tack welds if you aren't successful. In this case, I got it right where I wanted it. Now I'll cut the rest of the old pad off, clean it up, and then finish welding the new one on. I thought I had .030" wire in this machine, so I set the wire speeds accordingly. Unfortunately, I remembered wrong and really had .035" wire so the wire speeds should be lower than what I set them to. With the higher speeds, I had constant trouble with the wire melting a blob close to the ferrule. I kept fixing it until it completely fused a blob permanently to it. It's counter intuitive that this would happen with wire feeds that are too fast. I expected this to happen with speeds that are too slow. But I replaced the ferrule, slowed the speed down, and it worked as it should again. Edited by Powerflite 2025-07-16 4:08 PM (Spring Pad Fixture.jpg) (56 Plymouth Spring Pad Tacked.jpg) (Oops Wire Speed Too High.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Spring Pad Fixture.jpg (170KB - 201 downloads) 56 Plymouth Spring Pad Tacked.jpg (232KB - 191 downloads) Oops Wire Speed Too High.jpg (193KB - 185 downloads) | ||
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | Some progress yesterday. I hope to get it installed today if the paint is dry enough. You'll notice 2 holes in the housing for the brake junction. I moved it closer to the outside to put it closer to the stock position. I was going to weld up the original hole, but decided just to plug it with a bolt & washer instead. I was surprised that the spring plate had a part number stamped in the bottom of it. I should have noticed that when I replaced the rear in my '56 Savoy, but I wasn't paying attention to such things back then. That part number does match the catalog, but it's odd that the suburban uses a different part number that has a left & right version: 1616932 & 1616933. That makes me wonder if the suburban put the shock mount onto the plate instead. Odd that they would change it for the suburbans though. Edited by Powerflite 2025-07-17 12:07 PM (Pink 56 Plym Belv Rear End Painted.jpg) (Pink 56 Plym Belv Spring Plate.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Pink 56 Plym Belv Rear End Painted.jpg (214KB - 204 downloads) Pink 56 Plym Belv Spring Plate.jpg (123KB - 179 downloads) | ||
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | Interesting, the spring plate on the right side is stamped differently, on the opposite side and is harder to see. But it has the same part number. Since this is an older part number, I'm guessing that one of them is left over stock from an older assembly line. (Pink 56 Plym Belv Spring Rt Plate.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Pink 56 Plym Belv Spring Rt Plate.jpg (142KB - 209 downloads) | ||
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| Shep |
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Expert Posts: 3485   Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | |||
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| 56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10849 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Powerflite - 2025-07-17 8:54 AM That part number does match the catalog, but it's odd that the suburban uses a different part number that has a left & right version: 1616932 & 1616933. That makes me wonder if the suburban put the shock mount onto the plate instead. Odd that they would change it for the suburbans though. Good guess. From Phil L (Rocketman?) in the UK. (PhilLunds55DodgeWagonRearSprings_Left_0_1024.jpg) (PhilLunds55DodgeWagonRearSprings_Right_1024.jpg) Attachments ---------------- PhilLunds55DodgeWagonRearSprings_Left_0_1024.jpg (149KB - 185 downloads) PhilLunds55DodgeWagonRearSprings_Right_1024.jpg (149KB - 182 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | Shep - 2025-07-17 12:35 PM To set the spring perches, we set the stock rear in a fixed position, with the original perches in place we measure their position with a digital angle meter. Now when moving them or replacing them you are recreating the original pinion angle. This is a good approach in case the '56 Plymouth angle isn't the same as the B-body angle, but only accurate to the *degree* that you can measure and weld it to. Therein lies the problem. But I can place the pinion angle very accurately back to the b-body spec where the original perches are placed on it. Fortunately, I already did this on my '56 Savoy and it worked out very well without issue, so I know that's a good position for them. Most of these used rear ends are bent from suffering a lot of abuse while mounted and unmounted from their original vehicles. This one was no exception, but I forgot to straighten it *before* I painted it.  But better to remember now rather than after it's fully assembled. I had to beat on one side to get it to line up properly (move the other jackstand close to the center to only affect one side). The other side looked OK. Now the ends on the bar move smoothly into the housing ends. I'm going to have to sand and repaint this part of the axle, as a result. Unfortunately, I glanced a blow on top of the original B-body brake junction mounting hole, making it difficult to seal. So I will weld it up afterall to prevent a leak coming from there. Thanks for the pictures Dave. I'm guessing that they moved the shock mount downward on the suburbans to give them more range of movement, assuming that a wagon would be more heavily loaded than a sedan would be. At least that's the only explanation that I can come up with. (Pink 56 Belvedere Straightened Rear End.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Pink 56 Belvedere Straightened Rear End.jpg (80KB - 203 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | I dug through my parts stash and found that I do have a '55-'56 Plym/Dodge suburban spring plate. But what is odd, is that it looks nearly identical to the other '57-'58 Chrysler/DeSoto plates that I have. The only difference is that the '55-'56 Dodge/Plym Wagon part has the holes a little elongated. I'm not sure why/if that was necessary? I also don't know why they had different plates for the '55-'56 Chry/DeSoto wagons. The standard Chry/DeSoto plates have the shocks mounted to the plate too. Looking through the part numbers, I see: 1402199 '55-'56 Dodge/Plym 1616932,3 '55-'56 Dodge/Plym Wagon 1616930,1 '55-'56 Chry/DeSoto 1617022,3 '55-'56 Chry/DeSoto Wagon & Imperial, Heavy Duty '57-'59 Dodge/Plym, small wheel base & Wagon 1673532 '57 Plym Standard, but doesn't have a left version?? Maybe it's a flat plate like the '56 Plym?? 1820438,9 '57-'58 Chry/DeSoto 1856344,5 '59 Dodge/Plym, small wheel base Chry/DeSoto 1856346,7 '59 Chry/DeSoto, '60-up Everything with 8.75 rear axle. It's really crazy that they would have so many part numbers for essentially the same thing. By 1960, they finally came to their senses and used one part for everything. Edited by Powerflite 2025-07-21 12:06 PM (Forwardlook Spring Plates.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Forwardlook Spring Plates.jpg (177KB - 193 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10849 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Good job on the compilation of PNs, etc. Nathan. One minor problem. I think you meant this (1616932): (NathansRearWagonShockMountsCompilation_1616932.jpg) Attachments ---------------- NathansRearWagonShockMountsCompilation_1616932.jpg (225KB - 200 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10849 Location: Lower Mainland BC | Powerflite - 2025-07-21 8:56 AM It's really crazy that they would have so many part numbers for essentially the same thing. By 1960, they finally came to their senses and used one part for everything. To your point, these mounts are on a 1966 Belvedere I (with a 426 street hemi, 4 spd and Dana 60): (66Belvedere1Hemi4spdRearShockMount_Left.jpg) (66Belvedere1Hemi4spdRearShockMount_Right.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 66Belvedere1Hemi4spdRearShockMount_Left.jpg (147KB - 206 downloads) 66Belvedere1Hemi4spdRearShockMount_Right.jpg (146KB - 206 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | Yeah, I messed up that digit. More progress. The e-brake cables were frozen up, but I am resisting replacing them with new rubber coated cables. So I oiled the cables along the whole outside of it and then made sharp bends in it all along the way to crack it loose. I can now pull the long cable with my hands, but the short one is still too stiff to move. I'll oil it up again and let it sit for a while. I don't have the brackets to mount it to the car yet, so it can wait a while. I still need to make the new brake lines, but otherwise I'm finished with the axle install. I ran out of line, so I have to wait for it to be shipped to me. I'm working on replacing the transmission now. (Pink 56 Belvedere 8.75 Installed.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Pink 56 Belvedere 8.75 Installed.jpg (143KB - 206 downloads) | ||
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | I forgot to drain the torque converter before I pulled the transmission out. That mistake created an Exxon-Valdez situation on my driveway that I had to deal with. You can see the oil stain on the bottom of the torque converter. Amazing how much fluid that thing holds, that's still above the drain height when you take the oil pan off. Now I'll drain the torque converter before I attempt to remove it.  I've also decided to convert the car to dual exhaust while I am under here, but I really need to limit how many of those "while I am here" things I do.Edited by Powerflite 2025-07-30 5:18 PM (Pink 56 Belv Torque Converter.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Pink 56 Belv Torque Converter.jpg (205KB - 185 downloads) | ||
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | Make sure you remember to make clearance to access the torque converter bolts on the Hot Heads transmission adapter. It's really not fun to do while you are cramped under the car with the transmission installed and the torque converter in place. I used a carbide burr that has large flutes so they won't gum up with the aluminum when I cut it. However, I let it get too hot digging into it and I did end up gumming it up. Fortuntately, it's relatively easy to clean the flutes back out with a dental pick. Note: After I took this picture, I enlarged the reliefs more toward the outside. It's very hard to get to the bolts toward the center due to the oil pan being in the way. Edited by Powerflite 2025-08-01 10:02 PM (HotHeads Transmission Adapter Modifications.jpg) Attachments ---------------- HotHeads Transmission Adapter Modifications.jpg (248KB - 187 downloads) | ||
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| 58coupe |
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Expert Posts: 1784 Location: Alaska | |||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | To adapt a 727 to the early V8's. In my case, I'm putting in a push-button 727, which has the largest bolt pattern on the torque converter. Bob included those holes in his flex plate, but didn't account for being able to access them with his adapter in place. This is how it looks in place on the engine. Edited by Powerflite 2025-08-02 2:04 PM (Pink 56 Belv Trans Adapter In Place.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Pink 56 Belv Trans Adapter In Place.jpg (146KB - 191 downloads) | ||
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| 58coupe |
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Expert Posts: 1784 Location: Alaska | |||
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| 58coupe |
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Expert Posts: 1784 Location: Alaska | |||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | When I installed a 392 into my '68 Barracuda when I was 15 yrs. old, I made my own adapter. But I am glad that I can just purchase something now. I bought a bunch of these at once, so I need to use them up before trying anything else. But I should give Wayfarer's version a try. It looks like this car has it's original exhaust system in it. I say that because the muffler is an original and the pipe is a really thick gauge that aftermarket companies don't use. I think it is probably 14 gauge pipe. It makes it really nice to weld to. This muffler is blown out and would require a lot of careful reconstruction to be able to use it. I am thinking of cutting it up and using the panels as a display of some kind....  I mostly finished the dual exhaust system yesterday. I decided to weld ball/socket connectors onto the ends so I could remove the long pipes & mufflers easily. But I don't have any, so I need to wait for them to arrive. (Pink 56 Belv Original Muffler.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Pink 56 Belv Original Muffler.jpg (184KB - 169 downloads) | ||
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | The powerflite transmission dimension from the case mount to the centerline is 3 5/8". I measured the transmission mount and it is 1 1/8 tall. So the total height from the crossmember to the powerflite trans centerline is 4 3/4". The length of the push-button 727 bellhousing to the mount's center looks to be around 21". It looks like the new transmission with the 1" adapter from Hot Heads is only around 1/2" or so shorter than the original length. So I should be able to use the original transmission crossmember without any modification to it, except to drill holes to attach a different mount to it. The mounting hole separation on the push-button 727 is 4", which is much bigger than the newer 727 transmission mounts. Fortunately, this will fit a typical GM mount. The GM poly mount is 1 3/4" tall and the distance from the mount to it's centerline is 2 3/4". So the total height with the GM mount will be 4 1/2". So I am 1/4" short of the stock height. I plan to use a piece of 1/4" aluminum or steel plate underneath the mount to make up the difference. In fact, there is a plate that is included with the mount for some reason. It looks to be about 1/8" thick. That may be close enough to call it good. Mounting the transmission in this car is looking to be a piece of cake, at least in theory. (GM Transmission Poly Mount.jpg) Attachments ---------------- GM Transmission Poly Mount.jpg (48KB - 144 downloads) | ||
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | I purchased new whitewall tires for the car and put them on some 15x7 cop car wheels that I had purchased from the flings. I got tired of the cheap mag wheels that I had to put on the front of the car in order to clear the disc brakes. Other work is being delayed due to life events. (56 Belvedere New Whitewalls.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 56 Belvedere New Whitewalls.jpg (150KB - 156 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10849 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Nathan: What size tires are you running on the 15 x 7 cop car wheels? I am running 235/75/15's on my 56 Dodge with 1985 era cop car wheels. The tire shop had lots of "fun" getting those mounted and the bead sealed. Think ether and match and kaboom.  | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | |||
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | I purchased four '62-'65 push button transmissions for small blocks in the last few years, but none of them came with torque converters, dipstick tubes, shifter cables, park cables, or speedometer cables. Very annoying. All of this stuff is very difficult/expensive to round up separately. I had purchased two newly rebuilt torque converters for these transmissions, which were the last ones that I could find, back when I installed a push-button 727 in my black/white '57 New Yorker. I tried to use one of them back then, only to find that one of the mounting lugs was welded in the wrong location on the converter. So I used the other converter instead, which had no issues. But now I need to use that converter so I moved the mounting hole on the flex plate to accommodate it's offset location. I tried it out and it worked well, so I am now ready to install the transmission in the car. I'll have to deal with the missing cables and dipstick tube afterward. I also finished welding up the dual exhaust system for the car. I had some Pypes mufflers that I removed from my '67 Barracuda because they were a little too loud. I used those here, just to get rid of them. I'm hoping that they are much less loud on a very mild 277 2bbl car with stock manifolds and smaller head pipes. I also used the muffler extension pipes that I cut off the mufflers that I put into my '58 Coronet, to route the exhaust to exit in front of the rear wheels. I didn't want to put in the effort to route the exhaust over the rear axle. I may change it later on, but this should be fine for now. The ball socket connectors at the ends makes it painless to quickly remove or install these. (Pink 56Belvedere Dual Exhaust.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Pink 56Belvedere Dual Exhaust.jpg (115KB - 124 downloads) | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | This push-button 727 was supposed to have been rebuilt when I purchased it. The seals & gaskets do look and feel like they are new. However, I was dismayed to find out that the cover for the park cable was missing from it. Why?? Yet another part that I have to source to make it work. It won't seal at all without the park cable in it either, so I can't attempt to fill it with fluid until everything is in place. So I pulled a park cable cover from another transmission, but I don't understand how it's supposed to work. The screw that goes into the side of it has a round head - why? It also has the center section which is undercut. That's weird. I would have expected it to be straight to lock the cable into place, but with this undercut, it doesn't look like it would do anything. So I don't understand how this is supposed to work and why you would have one end of it without any kind of head to hold when you screw the nut on the end of it. With all of these transmissions I have, I don't have a park cable either to know how it mounts inside there. I was able to purchase a couple of big block dipstick tubes from Ebay and I modified the mount on one so it would bolt to the housing in the proper place. One was missing the cap from it, so I pulled the cap from my powerflite dipstick and put that in place on it. To get it on, I hammered the smushed tabs in and made it uniform. After I installed the cap, I re-smushed them to hold it in place. So I can use the second one on another transmission. (A727 Missing Park Cable Cover.jpg) (A727 Park Cable Cover.jpg) Attachments ---------------- A727 Missing Park Cable Cover.jpg (140KB - 124 downloads) A727 Park Cable Cover.jpg (146KB - 117 downloads) | ||
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| 22mafeja |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 745 Location: Finland | |||
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | Thanks Ralf, from that link I see that I am missing at least 2 more parts for all of these transmissions - the spring connectors to hold the cables in place, for both the shifter and park cables. Despite the issues, I'm determined to move forward. I mounted up the transmission, bolted the torque converter to the flex plate, and set it on the crossmember to find that all I have to do to mount it to the (GM/Mopar 4-speed) transmission mount is to drill 2 holes in the appropriate spots on the crossmember. That's a lot easier than I expected. I also found that the Powerflite kickdown linkage didn't match up well to the new arm, but if I turn the A727 arm upside down, it rotates the arm backwards, making it work nearly perfectly. So that was nice too. The neutral safety switch was also missing on this transmission, but I found that it uses the same switch as the Powerflite & Torqueflite. So I just swapped my old one over to it. Unfortunately, I also found that the kickdown seal hasn't been replaced and it is quite worn out. So I ordered one for it. Any advice on how to replace it? I also made a really dumb mistake. I welded the exhaust up with the transmission out of the way to make it easier, but I didn't think about the engine being at the wrong angle. So now the exhaust is pointing straight into the crossmember. I'll have to cut it back off and lower the angle on it. At least I can inspect and improve the hidden welds that I had to do on the other joints while the ends are removed. I used a truck driveshaft flange & slip-joint to connect to the end of the transmission so I don't have to put in a ball & trunion. But I'll wait to get a proper driveshaft made up until the transmission is ready to put fluid into it. I will likely need to move this car around before I round up all the missing parts, and it's better to have a dry transmission disconnected from the wheels while doing that. (park-cable-1a.jpg) (Pink 56 Belvedere A727 Installed.jpg) (A727 Kickdown Seal.jpg) (PushButton A727 Driveshaft SlipJoint.jpg) Attachments ---------------- park-cable-1a.jpg (15KB - 107 downloads) Pink 56 Belvedere A727 Installed.jpg (163KB - 110 downloads) A727 Kickdown Seal.jpg (164KB - 108 downloads) PushButton A727 Driveshaft SlipJoint.jpg (133KB - 105 downloads) | ||
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| 56D500boy |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10849 Location: Lower Mainland BC | . Some kick-down seal info (sent to you from my rented apartment's couch in Nice): http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=76899&... | ||
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| Powerflite |
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | Thanks Dave. I am tempted to just pull the valve body out to replace it, though I don't know if there are springs & BB's that are going to go flying into oblivion if I attempt that under the car. I just received the new seal, but I may need to wait on it as I might be moving soon and need to get other things in order first. I drilled holes for the new mount centered where the old mount was located. But when I put the transmission there, it had the driveshaft pointing toward the right outside edge of the flange on the differential yoke. That can't be right, can it? The differential is already offset to the right side, so it should line up to it pretty closely, correct? If so, I need to offset the holes I put in there more toward the left, by about 3/8". But it's odd that the original supposedly sat in that position.... I made up new cooler lines for it. I tried to go around the shifter cable to give it more room, but I'm not sure that I succeeded very well. At least they shouldn't hinder it too much, but it doesn't look great with the two lines separated like this. Oh well. At the front, I found that the left side wanted to go straight into the lower pulley on the engine. I had to bend it very close to the connection point at the radiator in order to get it to clear the fan belt with sufficient clearance. The lines are just copper coated steel, not the more expensive copper nickle alloy lines. I'm not sure how well they will work over time, but I'll give it a try. Edited by Powerflite 2025-09-13 6:33 PM (Pink 56 Belvedere Trans Cooler Lines.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Pink 56 Belvedere Trans Cooler Lines.jpg (139KB - 90 downloads) | ||
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Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 10420 Location: So. Cal | TEC really does know what he is talking about. I should listen to him more. (Whitewalls Are Required.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Whitewalls Are Required.jpg (122KB - 50 downloads) | ||
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