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P-S-T (Kanter) Fitment problems
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Cmangeot
Posted 2020-07-07 7:27 PM (#600576)
Subject: P-S-T (Kanter) Fitment problems


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 529
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Location: Park Hills, KY
So I followed the master front end thread and rebuilt my 58 Plymouth front end with parts from PST. Parts looked like a match in all respects.
Front end kit
Inner tie rods
Center link
Shocks (Gabriel)

Upon tightening the ball joints, the lower castle nuts are a half inch lower than the cotter pin hole. Same issue on the tie rod ends to the spindle and center link.

After 5 messages left with Dan from Kanter, I finally got a response. I sent photos of the problems 2 weeks ago. I got a confirmation of receipt from Dan the same day and I have not heard back after 4 more messages left.

So, WTF? How can these parts be wrong? The ball joints matched the numbers for Moog parts, even though they weren’t moog. The parts looked exact in terms of all other components. Are the new castle nuts just too small?

I deliberately didn’t use Kanter due to the previous customer service problems I’d read about. I did not know that PST was Kanter. Now I’m stuck with their parts with no support.

Looking for any assistance or experience.
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Powerflite
Posted 2020-07-07 8:43 PM (#600577 - in reply to #600576)
Subject: Re: P-S-T (Kanter) Fitment problems



Expert 5K+

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Location: So. California
I can't help you much, but if the hole is too far down, it sounds like the joint is too big, which would prevent the female part of the joint from going down far enough. Did you measure them both to compare the sizes?
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mikes2nd
Posted 2020-07-08 3:30 AM (#600584 - in reply to #600576)
Subject: Re: P-S-T (Kanter) Fitment problems


Expert

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i had to run a couple extra washers on top of my moog ball joints
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1960fury
Posted 2020-07-08 6:30 AM (#600586 - in reply to #600576)
Subject: Re: P-S-T (Kanter) Fitment problems



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Location: northern germany
The OE ball joints can be easily rebuild at home, you need a welder and (sometimes) a reamer, plus some hardware and so far, after decades with these cars, I've never seen worn upper ball joints.

That is the beauty of our hobby, almost everything can be repaired or rebuild. Unless you find OE/old stock the new parts are all from Asia. I suggest only replace/repair things that are really worn and if you have to replace, only use MOOG or other made in the USA parts from the 50s and 60s. By all means stay away from the "kits".
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Cmangeot
Posted 2020-07-08 3:40 PM (#600601 - in reply to #600576)
Subject: Re: P-S-T (Kanter) Fitment problems


Extreme Veteran

Posts: 529
50025
Location: Park Hills, KY
Mikes2nd - Thanks for that tip. The issue is not the hole being too low, it is too high. If i were to place the pin, it wouldn't seat in the castle nut. It would be above it. The washer idea may work for both the ball joints and the tie rod/center link. It just seems that the boot should not be as compressed as it is on this ball joint, but it is loose otherwise.

Anyone have any other thoughts? This is my first time doing this work, so it could definitely be my installation error.




Edited by Cmangeot 2020-07-08 3:42 PM




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Attachments thumbnail_IMG_6435.jpg (53KB - 38 downloads)
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wizard
Posted 2020-07-08 4:29 PM (#600602 - in reply to #600576)
Subject: Re: P-S-T (Kanter) Fitment problems



Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+

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Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island
In many Moog ball joint packages, there was an instruction along with a thick washer. On some models the washer should be used, some don't.
If the taper has the same dimensions os the old one, I'd say that a washer of roundabout 11/64" should fix your problem.
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