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Regular
Posts: 57
Location: GREENEVILLE, TN | Who on here as converted their car over to disc brakes on all 4 corners? Right now I'm working on the rear and I hit a snag. I have a 1965 donor axle that I'm taking the housing, and the flanged axle shafts, I'm reusing the Original 3rd member from my 1957 DeSoto just switching out the carrier so I have the correct thrust block to use with the 1965 axle shafts anyways that isn't the problem. The problem is I want to keep the original 14" wheels, tapered roller bearings, and I don't want a caliper with a built in parking brake. I want to keep the original parking brake on the driveshaft setup. Does anyone know of a kit that will meet my criteria? And what master cylinder did you use. I know there was a thread going about master cylinders but since then I think all of the ones discussed there have been discontinued. |
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Expert
Posts: 3775
   
Location: NorCal | Doctor Diff offers a kit that clears 14" wheels and can use the factory axle bearings. The calipers do have an internal parking brake but you don't have to connect it.
https://www.doctordiff.com/rear-disc-brake-kit-10.7-rotor.html |
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Expert
Posts: 2196
Location: Muskego, WI | I have disc brakes on all corners of my 1960 Plymouth 2 door sedan, used AAJ disc brakes for both front and rear. I'm still running my original rear end and tapered axles, no parking brake in the rear calipers. In fact, I don't have any parking brake at all right now, which I do intend to address eventually with a rear differential mounted disc brake with cable. I use a later model Dodge Ram master cylinder with a 1 and 1/8" bore, no power assist. The MC is aluminum with plastic reservoir with screw caps, very easy to check and fill. Had to use an adapter to mount the MC, but these are readily available. I am very happy with this setup and will most likely do the same with my 1960 wagon. Search my user name in the brake forums for details of what I did. |
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Regular
Posts: 57
Location: GREENEVILLE, TN | Why didn't you use the master cylinder that came with the AAJ kit? |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 5006
| youll need the 1 1/8 master to get the brake fluid capacity to fill the front calipers. |
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Regular
Posts: 57
Location: GREENEVILLE, TN | What size is the piston in the kit? You would think that since it comes all together in his kit it should all work together. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9650
Location: So. Cal | Is there a rear disc brake conversion for the original axles that includes a parking brake? Both of those kits come with 11" rotors. Is that a good size for the rear? I am interested in this for wagons, my panel truck & towing vehicles with a lot of weight in the rear. |
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Regular
Posts: 57
Location: GREENEVILLE, TN | I don't think there are any rear disc brake kits for the tappered shaft axles. You have to convert over to a flanged axle shaft. |
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Expert
Posts: 3393
Location: Chestertown, NY ( near Lake George) | Up to now, correct. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9650
Location: So. Cal | AAJ certainly has a kit for them.
http://www.aajbrakes.com/rearbrakes.html |
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Expert
Posts: 2196
Location: Muskego, WI | I am using the AAJ rear disc brake kit for tapered axle Mopar 8 3/4 rear end. I chose my master cylinder based on the fact that it is aluminum (lighter and won't be all rusty within a few years) and it is much easier to open to check and/or fill (plastic screw caps instead of the steel cover with wire strap). Bore is also key as 4 wheel disc brakes requires movement of more fluid. I am very happy with this setup. |
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Regular
Posts: 57
Location: GREENEVILLE, TN | How are you using his rear kit with the tapered shaft? From the picture in the kit there is no way those rotors will bolt on. Unless he is making some kind on hub that slides onto the tapered shaft that the disc brake bolts to and he just doesn't have it in the picture of the kit. |
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Expert
Posts: 2196
Location: Muskego, WI | The rear rotors don't bolt on, they float just like any modern car. You remove your rear drum, drill/press out your original wheel studs to separate the drum from the wheel hub, press in new studs and then slide the brake rotor over the hub. The caliper bracket bolts to the end of the axle housing just like your old drum backing plate would. Very simple. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9650
Location: So. Cal | What is the purpose of those "D" shaped housing flanges?
Edited by Powerflite 2020-02-17 2:06 PM
 (rearconversion.jpg)
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 rearconversion.jpg (33KB - 233 downloads)
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Expert
Posts: 2196
Location: Muskego, WI | To retain your outer axle seal and hold the wheel bearing in place. |
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Regular
Posts: 57
Location: GREENEVILLE, TN | called him and talked to AAJ brakes today. I understand how it works now. I didn't realize that the drum is made up of 2 pieces. I thought it was one. That is why I didn't understand how you were bolting the rotor that is in the picture onto the tapered axle shaft. |
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Expert
Posts: 2196
Location: Muskego, WI | When I bought my kit, I just purchased the caliper brackets and the brake line brackets that need to be welded to the axle housing. I cut out the center of my original drum backing plates to retain the seal and wheel bearing and sourced all the parts locally (saves on shipping).
I have Roger's front disc kit on all three of my Plymouths and the rear disc kit on one of them. I may eventually add the rear disc to the wagon, but will decide after I get it on the road. I like Roger's kits over the Scarebird kits as he uses a caliper with a much bigger piston.
Edited by jboymechanic 2020-02-17 10:49 PM
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9650
Location: So. Cal | You'll want those rear discs on the wagon - especially if you plan to tow anything with it. Rear disc brakes are really helpful when you have a lot of weight in the back of your car and a wagon has more than other types of cars. |
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Expert
Posts: 3775
Location: NorCal | jboymechanic - 2020-02-17 1:10 PM
To retain your outer axle seal and hold the wheel bearing in place.
OK, I'm confused. Is the AAJ kit for both tapered and Green bearings? If for taper bearings, where's the adjuster?
The OP has '65 housing with a different bolt pattern and flange axles.
Edited by 57chizler 2020-02-19 2:34 PM
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9650
Location: So. Cal | We got off the original subject and started talking about '57-'61 axles. |
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Regular
Posts: 57
Location: GREENEVILLE, TN | Yea I was going to convert over to the flanged axle shafts. I always planed on using the tapered roller bearings, not the green bearing junk. AAJ makes kits for the tapered axle shaft and the flanged axle shaft. I'm not sure if his kits will work with the green bearings. I read the procedure for adjusting the axle end play and its stupid simple. I don't know why you would want to run the inferior green bearings. |
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Regular
Posts: 57
Location: GREENEVILLE, TN | I'll do a step by step install of the disc conversion front and rear if anyone is interested. |
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Expert 5K+
Posts: 9650
Location: So. Cal | Using the green bearings also can create issues with the center thrust pin in the gears. Often the green bearings cause the axles to sit slightly further inboard, causing an interference problem with the pin. So you have to take the carrier apart and remove the pin or shorten it. Pain in the neck - especially when you want to transfer those gears to a different car with tapered bearings later. You end up constantly having to tear carriers and ring gears apart. |
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4 wheel disc brakes
