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Mopar1 |
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Expert Posts: 3064 Location: N.W. Fla. | jboymechanic - 2020-04-03 3:41 PM I believe you'll find that once everything is bolted on & snugged up it'll take a puller to get the drums off again.I've already separated the drums from the hubs, then I can just slip the drums on and off. . | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | Mopar 1, scroll up in this thread, you will see that I have pressed out the swaged studs and replaced them so that the original drums will now float on the original tapered axle hub. I would need a puller to remove the hub, but the drums are now floating like a newer car. 58coupe, I have never had a vehicle with the Mopar electronic ignition, but I've read that they don't perform well at mid-range RPM. I have no personal experience here, but I got the '74 distributor for free and I've converted to HEI for about $100. | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | Finished rebuilding my AX15 tonight to the point that it's full of oil and ready for install. (thumb_IMG_0875_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_0876_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_0877_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_0878_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_0903_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_0904_1024.jpg) Attachments ---------------- thumb_IMG_0875_1024.jpg (271KB - 517 downloads) thumb_IMG_0876_1024.jpg (250KB - 498 downloads) thumb_IMG_0877_1024.jpg (241KB - 521 downloads) thumb_IMG_0878_1024.jpg (256KB - 506 downloads) thumb_IMG_0903_1024.jpg (282KB - 527 downloads) thumb_IMG_0904_1024.jpg (243KB - 544 downloads) | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | Stopped by my dad's shop today, he's starting to re-assemble the 318. Cam and crank are in. (thumb_IMG_0905_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_0906_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_0907_1024.jpg) Attachments ---------------- thumb_IMG_0905_1024.jpg (304KB - 518 downloads) thumb_IMG_0906_1024.jpg (296KB - 526 downloads) thumb_IMG_0907_1024.jpg (238KB - 514 downloads) | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | The 318 short block is together with new cam, rod and main bearings. Everything rolls over very nicely, oil pan and heads next. (thumb_IMG_0966_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_0967_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_0968_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_0969_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_0970_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_0971_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_0972_1024.jpg) Attachments ---------------- thumb_IMG_0966_1024.jpg (307KB - 508 downloads) thumb_IMG_0967_1024.jpg (297KB - 507 downloads) thumb_IMG_0968_1024.jpg (310KB - 509 downloads) thumb_IMG_0969_1024.jpg (235KB - 513 downloads) thumb_IMG_0970_1024.jpg (264KB - 509 downloads) thumb_IMG_0971_1024.jpg (304KB - 505 downloads) thumb_IMG_0972_1024.jpg (266KB - 506 downloads) | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | I've been working on the transmission mount and shifter for the wagon by mocking them up in my 1960 Plymouth sedan. Here is the slightly modified mount that will accept the 5 speed. I had to turn the mounting plate 180 degrees and notch it for a rib in the 5 speed. I have this exact setup in the sedan now and it is a much better setup than what I had before. Edited by jboymechanic 2020-05-12 12:07 AM (thumb_IMG_0975_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_0976_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_0977_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_0978_1024.jpg) Attachments ---------------- thumb_IMG_0975_1024.jpg (301KB - 510 downloads) thumb_IMG_0976_1024.jpg (238KB - 506 downloads) thumb_IMG_0977_1024.jpg (240KB - 499 downloads) thumb_IMG_0978_1024.jpg (295KB - 517 downloads) | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | I also found and installed a shifter from a Dodge Dakota and it fits the car perfectly without modification, position and comfort for the driver is perfect. I was previously using a shifter out of a Jeep and I had to bend the shifter significantly to clear the dash and seat, but position was ok. I also didn't care for the joint in the Jeep stick shift, it's just an interference fit square socket and as I drove the car the shifter kept working itself apart. The Dakota stick is threaded together and won't have that problem, I just don't care for the plastic shift knob from the 90s. Edited by jboymechanic 2020-05-12 12:21 AM (thumb_IMG_0979_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_0980_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_0981_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_0982_1024.jpg) Attachments ---------------- thumb_IMG_0979_1024.jpg (199KB - 496 downloads) thumb_IMG_0980_1024.jpg (223KB - 493 downloads) thumb_IMG_0981_1024.jpg (244KB - 495 downloads) thumb_IMG_0982_1024.jpg (234KB - 478 downloads) | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | Heads are on the 318, down to just the intake, carb, distributor and fuel pump. (thumb_IMG_1002_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_1003_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_1004_1024.jpg) Attachments ---------------- thumb_IMG_1002_1024.jpg (299KB - 486 downloads) thumb_IMG_1003_1024.jpg (299KB - 486 downloads) thumb_IMG_1004_1024.jpg (292KB - 492 downloads) | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | Tackled a big job on the wagon today, cut off the helper springs (which were not needed at all) and cut the rear axle U-bolts. The centering bolts were broken on BOTH sides, I knew at least one had to be broken. The springs were all separated, cleaned, greased and reassembled with new centering pins. I then installed a different axle housing that I had previously cleaned and installed new inner seals in, new grade 8 U-bolts and nuts were used. Repacked the rear axle bearings, installed my restored rear brakes, adjusters and hubs. I had previously separated the drums from the hubs as well, everything went together great. Car is back down on all fours, next step is to install brake lines and bleed. Oh, and the existing axle had 3.31 gears, so that is what I'm using as I don't have any other gear ratios on hand currently. No pictures, just too messy of a job all around to handle the phone. Really glad to have this done. | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | Below is a link to the refreshed 318 running. This is the first time the engine ran, it has been run for about 3 hours since and is now broke in. The blow-by observed out of the valve cover vent has cleared up. Initial compression tests resulted in cylinder pressures of 130 to 145 psi, after break in those numbers are up to 155 to 165 psi. Transmission was rebuilt and shifts into all gears without any noises. Very happy with the results, but will need a different carb. Using a loaner Quick Fuel 750 and it is just too much for the little 318. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cb6RFtbwjIY Edited by jboymechanic 2020-06-21 12:00 AM | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9859 Location: So. Cal | Congratulations, that sounds good. Some blowby can be created from too much advance too. But you have real problems - your fan keeps going backwards! | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | Here are a couple more vidoes now that the timing was more dialed in and the engine was actually broke in: Cold Start and idling https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sc524kENdgU Revving after warmed up https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XrUMCbMpZjI | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | Got some more work done on the wagon. All new stainless brake lines are installed on the car, but need to re-bleed as the pedal isn't quite there yet. I also mounted my clutch pedal and master cylinder, same setup as my 1960 sedan. I also cut out and cleaned up the K member where the crappy Olds engine mounts were welded in place. (thumb_IMG_1228_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_1229_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_1230_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_1231_1024.jpg) Attachments ---------------- thumb_IMG_1228_1024.jpg (263KB - 447 downloads) thumb_IMG_1229_1024.jpg (269KB - 442 downloads) thumb_IMG_1230_1024.jpg (245KB - 451 downloads) thumb_IMG_1231_1024.jpg (284KB - 443 downloads) | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | Dropped the gas tank today, then scraped off all the old undercoating on the outside and vacuumed the inside. The amount of rust flakes was alarming, but it actually seems pretty solid yet. (thumb_IMG_1276_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_1277_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_1284_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_1285_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_1283_1024.jpg) Attachments ---------------- thumb_IMG_1276_1024.jpg (217KB - 413 downloads) thumb_IMG_1277_1024.jpg (248KB - 419 downloads) thumb_IMG_1284_1024.jpg (227KB - 410 downloads) thumb_IMG_1285_1024.jpg (205KB - 418 downloads) thumb_IMG_1283_1024.jpg (176KB - 427 downloads) | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | Cleaned out the inside of the tank with acid which resulted in several new holes in heavily pitted areas. Had it brazed up by a local guy after I cleaned up the outside of the tank as well, hope it holds up. Working on making a new tank strap out of stainless as well. Edited by jboymechanic 2020-09-17 12:06 AM (thumb_IMG_1338_1024.jpg) Attachments ---------------- thumb_IMG_1338_1024.jpg (214KB - 405 downloads) | ||
normsclassicradio |
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Extreme Veteran Posts: 310 Location: Kalispell, MT USA | I fixed the tank in my 62 Newport wagon years ago by soldering a layer of pennies over the rusted sections. Made the tank kind of heavy.. | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9859 Location: So. Cal | If you have a large section that's bad, you can cut it out and weld a new piece into it just like any other body repair. Afterward, braze over the welds to ensure that they won't leak. | ||
NicksGarage |
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Expert Posts: 1223 Location: Ramona, CA | I lucked out with the tank I found, super clean in and out. (20191113_171207.jpg) (20191113_171254.jpg) Attachments ---------------- 20191113_171207.jpg (83KB - 392 downloads) 20191113_171254.jpg (39KB - 404 downloads) | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | That is unbelievably clean! I've had gas in my patched tank since Friday morning, no leaks! | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | Painted my tank with truck bed liner, ready to go in the car. (thumb_IMG_1360_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_1362_1024.jpg) Attachments ---------------- thumb_IMG_1360_1024.jpg (205KB - 392 downloads) thumb_IMG_1362_1024.jpg (158KB - 406 downloads) | ||
NicksGarage |
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Expert Posts: 1223 Location: Ramona, CA | Looks great. | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | We had some amazing weather in WI today for this time of year, hit 80 degrees. I took the day off to work on the wagon, the fuel tank, sending unit and lines are all now in the car. I measured the original strap, which was incredibly corroded and pitted, and had a new one laser cut out of 14 gauge 304 stainless steel. I just had to bend it up, which my dad and I accomplished used a vise and careful bending around the front axle of his 1966 International 806 tractor. Turned out nice and fit perfectly. Also sand blasted and painted my tank shield and reinstalled. I also replaced the hacked up center link with a new unit from PST, which seemed well built and a perfect fit but we'll see how it holds up. I also measured and cut the hole in the floor for the 5 speed shifter and did a lot of vacuuming under the hood before the engine goes in. The hood is off, but we're going to pull the grill and core support so we can go more straight in with the drivetrain. If only I had one more solid day of work, the drivetrain would be in... (thumb_IMG_1386_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_1389_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_1391_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_1393_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_1394_1024.jpg) Attachments ---------------- thumb_IMG_1386_1024.jpg (205KB - 382 downloads) thumb_IMG_1389_1024.jpg (178KB - 389 downloads) thumb_IMG_1391_1024.jpg (204KB - 381 downloads) thumb_IMG_1393_1024.jpg (206KB - 383 downloads) thumb_IMG_1394_1024.jpg (218KB - 374 downloads) | ||
NicksGarage |
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Expert Posts: 1223 Location: Ramona, CA | Nice job on the tank and strap. Looks like you also made new fuel lines. I was fortunate to get a good line out of another wagon. Just had to make the one that goes through the subframe and then from the carb to the fuel filter. I still need to put my tank shield in but going to wait until I get the car running and a few other things done. | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | Car is now ready for the engine and trans to go in, hope to get at it next Saturday. (thumb_IMG_1408_1024.jpg) Attachments ---------------- thumb_IMG_1408_1024.jpg (258KB - 390 downloads) | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9859 Location: So. Cal | Good deal. Might want to clean up that engine bay a little first since it would be relatively easy to do now. | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | Engine and transmission are not mounted into the car, having the core support out of the way made it very simple. I also have some minor straightening to do on the core support, so I'll do that before it goes back in. Trans mount worked out just like in my sedan, and we were able to finish the hole in the floor for the shifter as well. Now we can chip away at the wiring, hooking up the fuel, carb linkage, clutch line, power steering and getting the cooling system back together. Edited by jboymechanic 2020-10-24 10:05 PM (thumb_IMG_1443_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_1444_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_1450_1024.jpg) Attachments ---------------- thumb_IMG_1443_1024.jpg (226KB - 373 downloads) thumb_IMG_1444_1024.jpg (245KB - 378 downloads) thumb_IMG_1450_1024.jpg (219KB - 366 downloads) | ||
Apollo 61 |
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Elite Veteran Posts: 773 | Nice work, are those the factory rear leafs? Or did you add some extra springs? | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | I didn't add any extra springs, but that doesn't mean they're factory. | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | We're having spectacular weather here for this time of year, hit 70 yesterday. Took the day off to work on the wagon and got a lot done. Installed the shifter boot, converted to electronic voltage regulator, completed all under hood rewiring, connected the fuel system, made carb linkage, mounted and connected the power steering pump and started re-assembling the front end back onto the car. Still need to button up the front sheet metal, install the radiator, hoses and fan and connect the clutch hydraulic line and then we can do a test run in the car. | ||
NicksGarage |
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Expert Posts: 1223 Location: Ramona, CA | Jon, Did you replace the seal on your gas tank drain plug? Mine is leaking.
(fuel_tank_plug_2.jpg) Attachments ---------------- fuel_tank_plug_2.jpg (245KB - 354 downloads) | ||
wizard |
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Board Moderator & Exner Expert 10K+ Posts: 13065 Location: Southern Sweden - Sturkö island | Use Viton rubber and make a seal. Viton withstands modern fuels | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | I removed my plug, threw away the gasket and brazed it closed. I just see no value in these plugs, it's not hard to remove the tank. I put the tank in the car empty and haven't refilled it since I installed my tank, but I had about 6 gallons of fuel in the tank while resting in my garage for 3 days with no drips anywhere. I'll confirm when we fill it back up soon. | ||
NicksGarage |
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Expert Posts: 1223 Location: Ramona, CA | Thanks. They dropped the drain plugs after a while. I assume they had them because gas could be questionable in certain areas. (fuel_tank_plug_4a.jpg) Attachments ---------------- fuel_tank_plug_4a.jpg (420KB - 457 downloads) | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | She's a driver! Below is a link to this car's first drive since 1976. Still plenty to do, but really happy to have it moving under its own power! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0aD0wUUrus | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9859 Location: So. Cal | Sounds pretty healthy. Congratulations. | ||
NicksGarage |
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Expert Posts: 1223 Location: Ramona, CA | jboymechanic - 2020-11-29 6:56 PM She's a driver! Below is a link to this car's first drive since 1976. Still plenty to do, but really happy to have it moving under its own power! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W0aD0wUUrus Did you get the new tank? I still haven't driven my '60 Chrysler wagon that has been parked since 1978. You're way ahead of me. | ||
57burb |
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Expert Posts: 3967 Location: DFW, TX | Nice! Another FL car saved! Looks and sounds just awesome, congrats man. | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | I did get my tank and I now see that he's lowered the price to $499 or offer. Tank looks good, but I wanted to see how it fits before I give a review with pictures. Glad I bought it though, my repaired tank has started to ever so slowly leak, about 2 drops a day. | ||
NicksGarage |
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Expert Posts: 1223 Location: Ramona, CA | jboymechanic - 2020-12-01 6:38 PM I did get my tank and I now see that he's lowered the price to $499 or offer. Tank looks good, but I wanted to see how it fits before I give a review with pictures. Glad I bought it though, my repaired tank has started to ever so slowly leak, about 2 drops a day. Looking forward to hearing how it fits. If I didn't already have 3 original tanks I'd probably buy one as a spare. Of course he's knocking down the price of used ones but still more than I paid. One of mine has some dents as it came out of a demo derby wagon. | ||
NicksGarage |
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Expert Posts: 1223 Location: Ramona, CA | jboymechanic - 2020-12-01 6:38 PM I did get my tank and I now see that he's lowered the price to $499 or offer. Tank looks good, but I wanted to see how it fits before I give a review with pictures. Glad I bought it though, my repaired tank has started to ever so slowly leak, about 2 drops a day. Looking forward to hearing how it fits. If I didn't already have 3 original tanks I'd probably buy one as a spare. Of course he's knocking down the price of used ones but still more than I paid. One of mine has some dents as it came out of a demo derby wagon. | ||
NicksGarage |
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Expert Posts: 1223 Location: Ramona, CA | Well my super clean original 1960 tank started leaking. I had a leak at the drain plug but made a new seal for it. Put the plug back in and put a gallon of gas in it and hear a drip drip drip. There is a tiny hole in the bottom of the tank. I can probably braze it up. Going to test my spare 1961 tank. | ||
Mopar1 |
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Expert Posts: 3064 Location: N.W. Fla. | NicksGarage - 2020-12-14 12:26 PM You might try drilling it out. If you get solid metal with a small hole I've patched them with a screw, screen mesh & JB Weld.... Well my super clean original 1960 tank started leaking. I had a leak at the drain plug but made a new seal for it. Put the plug back in and put a gallon of gas in it and hear a drip drip drip. There is a tiny hole in the bottom of the tank. I can probably braze it up. Going to test my spare 1961 tank. | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | New tank is in the car and it fits just like the original. I think I previously posted that the tank seam/flange wasn't folded over where the strap wraps around the tank, but that is not true. The flange is folded over in the right spot and the tank doesn't leak. My aftermarket sending unit from Van's fit perfectly, no slop and the lock ring fits real tight. I haven't filled the tank up completely yet, hopefully no leaks there. The one issue I did have was with fitting the fill tube into the grommet, it was soooo tight. I was able to "grind" out the ID of the grommet to get a more reasonable fit while still being sealed tight. Overall I'm very happy with the tank. | ||
NicksGarage |
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Expert Posts: 1223 Location: Ramona, CA | Thanks for the update. I always use WD40 to help get the filler pipe in the grommet. The filler on these is so short that it's hard to get a running go at it. The o-ring type is certainly easier. | ||
Powerflite |
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Expert 5K+ Posts: 9859 Location: So. Cal | The opening on the Vans tanks for the '57-'59 are way too small. You would need a press to get it in. Fortunately, it is easy to grind it open to fit properly. | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | Not much new, but I did get my AutoMeter electronic oil pressure and volt meter wired into the car properly. I also installed and connected the original water temp sending unit and used a "Tach Match" to wire up the vintage Radatron tach that was in the car. I followed the Tach Match instructions and once I realized that the white wire from the tach was the signal wire everything worked out. Now I will have all the vital information about the engine when I'm sitting behind the wheel. Cold and snowy here now, so won't be outside to run for a while. | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | No work lately, but I did order dual exhaust from Waldron's. Their systems are made to order, currently a 10 week lead time. I've had look luck with them in the past in my 1958 Plymouth 4 door sedan and my 1956 Imperial. Both needed some tweaking, but installed ok for the most part. | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | This car is finally in my garage at home. With the Imperial out for finishing and the other two plymouths out of the way I can really focus. I just installed a new steering column coupler and it has drastically improved the feel of the steering wear and eliminated 90% of the slop. Next up would be to replace my front windshield and install some rear disc brakes (already tired or re-adjusted fussy, grabby rear drums). | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | New windshield is in. All the metal around the window was in very good shape, just some light surface rust on the A pillars so I painted them with Rust Bullet. Windshield came out of the '61 Savoy I parted, not perfect but it's in one piece. (thumb_IMG_2171_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_2174_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_2191_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_2192_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_2220_1024.jpg) (thumb_IMG_2221_1024.jpg) Attachments ---------------- thumb_IMG_2171_1024.jpg (188KB - 245 downloads) thumb_IMG_2174_1024.jpg (158KB - 255 downloads) thumb_IMG_2191_1024.jpg (165KB - 265 downloads) thumb_IMG_2192_1024.jpg (179KB - 262 downloads) thumb_IMG_2220_1024.jpg (169KB - 247 downloads) thumb_IMG_2221_1024.jpg (151KB - 261 downloads) | ||
jboymechanic |
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Expert Posts: 2206 Location: Muskego, WI | Finished my rear disc conversion, just need to check for leaks and bleed. (Passenger rear disc 1.jpg) (Driver rear disc 1.jpg) Attachments ---------------- Passenger rear disc 1.jpg (153KB - 253 downloads) Driver rear disc 1.jpg (155KB - 249 downloads) | ||
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